Virtual Mechanic

Ball Joints
PURPOSE
Ball joints are a component that connects the control arm to a stub axle, making it a very important component. Some ball joints are serviceable with a grease nipple. Ball joints are best checked every 10,000Kms.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

A ball joint may produce a slight or heavy metallic noise as you turn the steering wheel or it may wear or elongate without producing any noise. The best to check a ball joint is to jack the vehicle up but before you do, watch the video as there are different types of ball joint testing procedures for each type of suspension and always use jack stands when jacking up any vehicle to ensure your safety.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?

Ball joints cost around $60.00-$90.00 including fitting, plus the cost of a front end alignment. Your local spare parts dealer should stock the most common brands at a fair price.

TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT

Replacing the old ball joints with new only ball joints is recommended as there are no temporary repairs to ball joints.

Alternator
 PURPOSE
The alternator is a component that is fitted outside or around the front of the engine. It is a round component and has a fan belt connected to it. If the fan belt is connected tightly it will allow the alternator to charge somewhere between 13.8-14.2 volts. The alternator is designed to charge at this voltage to the battery. The alternator’s purpose is to keep the battery recharged..The alternator is not designed to fully charge the battery if the battery is flat. If the battery is flat have it recharged by an auto electrician and then the alternator will keep the battery recharged at its full capacity. The alternator may have an external voltage regulator or an internal regulator. Most have an internal voltage regulator which regulates the voltage. The internal voltage regulator may have brushes attached to it as a complete unit and this is the component that allows the battery to receive the charge.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

The alternator should have a tight fan belt. If not, this will affect the charge rate. An alternator should also have a secured lead and terminal at the rear of the alternator. This is the main terminal that connects a heavy duty lead from the alternator to the battery. Alternators should be checked for the voltage across the terminals at the battery for 13.8-14.2 volts. If this isn’t the case, then check the voltage at the rear of the alternator on the positive terminal and the earth on the battery terminal. If this is a lower voltage, it is showing that the battery has got a voltage drop therefore an extra lead made up to go from the alternator to the positive battery is another way of ensuring a good charge rate to the battery.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?

Depending on the make and model , the alternator can cost around $150.00-$200.00 for a reconditioned alternator. Some alternators can be purchased new. Whether purchasing a reconditioned or new alternator, be sure to get a 12 months warranty. as alternators, depending on the make and model do fail. With reconditioned alternators, it depends on the auto electrician. Find a good auto electrician, preferrably one that is recommended.

Brake System – Brake Fluid
 PURPOSE
Brake fluid is designed to operate under high temperatures therefore it contains additives that make it hydroscopic, this means its properties will become affected if it’s exposed to water. Brake fluid is not designed to last forever as moisture may affect the boiling point. For this reason brake fluid must be kept in a dry place and the rubber lid on the master cylinder must be sealed to prevent moisture and dirt from entering into this reservoir. Brake fluid is best kept for 12 months, and after that, throw it away as it may contain moisture.

Things to look for

Brake fluid, depending on its demand, may become discoloured. When this happens renew the brake fluid.. It is important to observe the brake fluid reservoir on a weekly basis as it may descend as the front disc callipers self adjust. It should only descend slightly, measured in millimetres at a time. If the reservoir descends completely in a month then it’s leaking. At this stage, don’t even drive the car to the garage. Brake fade is also a sign to change the brake fluid. Brake fade is when the pedal is still hard but there is no braking reaction

Is it expensive to repair?

Brake fluid is not expensive and if you decide to replace the brake fluid make sure your mechanic bleeds all the nipples and cleans the reservoir. If this is completely flushed, it may cost around $45.00 including time.

Temporary repair and long term replacement

Brake fluid may descend slightly in the reservoir as the disc callipers self adjust. At this stage it’s okay to top it up with new brake fluid to prevent the buoyant level indicator from switching the brake warning light on.
 

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM – Battery terminals
 PURPOSE
The purpose of the battery terminal is to hold all the cables either on the negative or positive battery poles. The battery terminal needs to be in fixed position. A sure connection is a connection that will not move. The best battery terminal is a brass battery terminal as it is not workable or malleable. There are many different types of battery terminals on the market. Most of these terminals do require replacing over 10 years and should be replaced with a brass terminal. Some battery terminals may be eaten away by the battery acid.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

The plastic terminal may look clean and perfect but the problem is that if you need to jump start the vehicle, the connection inside the red or black terminal might be isolating the connection or causing a bad connection to the battery pole. The best way to eliminate this possibility is to cut off the red and black terminal and replace it with a brass battery terminal. This way you can see the connection and it is a sure connection. A hard to start engine or a non cranking engine may be due to a faulty battery terminal. The only way to successfully check this is by removing the terminals and cleaning both poles and terminals with a wire brush and replacing them. This might get the car started.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?

A good brass battery terminal costs around $5.00. There are lead and steel terminals on the market but the best ones are the brass terminals that enable the cables to be mounted on the top. There are clones of the brass terminal that hold the cable on with thin plates. This plate has to have a thickness of 1 mm to hold the cable secure when the cables contract and expand.

TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT

You can only really replace a battery terminal.
 

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM  – Charging system – Battery
PURPOSE

The purpose of the battery is to receive the charge from the alternator. This charge should be received in a perimeter of 13.8-14.2 volts. If this charge is lower, eg 13 volts, the battery will be affected. If the charge is higher than 14.2 volts the battery will also be overcharged and this will shorten the life of the battery. The battery should be checked to make sure that it is receiving at least 13.5 volts of charge. It also should be checked with the headlights on as this will ensure that the battery is receiving a charge under load.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

You need to make sure that the battery is secure and that the water level is at the correct height. The best way to check this is over the plates and under the caps. An overfull battery will create more vapour and will start to eat any metal including the battery cradle. If the battery cradle has a white powdery substance around the terminals or battery poles or cradle, hot water and/or baking soda is used to eliminate this. Baking soda is a neutralising agent on the acid, so it will take longer for the acid to return to the battery poles and the battery cradle.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?

The battery should cost between $50.00-$120.00. The best battery to buy is one that you can service by filling it up with either tap water or if you’re not sure of the quality of the water, distilled water. The battery level must be maintained. If it is too low and has been neglected for a long time and you decide to put water in it then this may affect the battery. Batteries should last at least 18-24 months. Keep your warranty if you need to have it replaced within the warranty period as batteries do have a high mortality rate.

Clutch System – Clutch Master
 PURPOSE
A clutch master cylinder is designed to hold a reservoir of brake fluid and apply pressure down a line to the slave cylinder. The master cylinder must hold residue pressure making it a completely sealed unit away from air allowing this hydraulic applicator ready at all times with the slightest pedal push.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

The reservoir must never drop in level. The clutch pedal should never require pumping or have excessive play. This is an indication that there is a leak or air is leaking into the system. This requires attention ASAP.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?

Most clutch master cylinders cost from $50.00-$200.00. Shop around for a good price. Brake master cylinders are repairable but because most brake master cylinders are made of alloy, they may an irreparable ball, making it cheaper and quicker to replace the cylinder rather than repairing it. Remember to bleed the system after fitting

TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT

If the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance and the clutch master reservoir is empty, try topping it up and pump the pedal slowly and this should self bleed. At the same time check that the slave is not pouring out fluid. If it does then the only thing to do is get a tow truck.

Tyres – Wear 
 To check the condition of the tyres for wear or fractures you need to carefully rub your hands around the perimeter of the tyre while at the same time checking the opposite direction for misalignment. If you notice that there appears to be a fracture or a misalignment, the tyre needs to be replaced or you need to have a front end alignment done on the vehicle. If a problem is detected early on, you will prolong the life of the tyre.
 
 More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom

Tyres – Pressures
 Check the tyres on a weekly basis. Checking the pressure and the tyre condition will prolong the life of the tyre. You need to check and see if the tyre is wearing unevenly. Or if you rub your hand all around the perimeter of the tyre checking that the tyre has no bulges or fractures, be very careful as any glass or sharp objects which have lodged in the tread can cause some damage to your hand.
 
 More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom

Question Australia-3-1 Overheating and trouble with Toyota dealership
username=Elizabeth H
VehicleType=Toyota Camry
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=approx. 60000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Texas

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Camry overheating
comment=My 1993 Toyota Camry overheated a couple of weeks ago.  I had it
towed to the dealership where the radiator and thermostat were replaced.
Now I cannot drive more than 1/2 mile without its starting to overheat
again.  If I’m driving, the needle stays at about the middle of the gauge.
If I am stopped at a light or have the a/c on, the needle starts rising
quickly, almost reaching the red zone.  (I either turn off the air or the
traffic light has changed and I can drive again before it gets to the red.)
I would appreciate your letting me know what you think is causing the
overheating, given that it’s just been to the dealership and I’m looking at
another tow.  Is it OK to drive to the dealership as long as I turn it off
and let it cool down when it starts to heat up or will that cause damage?
Thank you.
Answer
So for taking so long Liz I’m getting alot of questions these days.
1, Don’t drive the vehicle all as it may create more damage
2, For some reason I’m getting alot of people paying the highest price to
get there vehicle repaired only to find the same thing repeating
You must inform the Toyota dealership what has happened and get them to
arrange a tow at there cost
3, It may only be a thermo fan not reconnected but if you drive it might
cause damage to the headgasket and the Toyota dealership may
use this activity against you.
Toyota what a feeling
Let me know how go get on
Darren
Question Australia-3-2 Headgasket Repeat Problems – Toyota  -  What a feeling
username=Kim
VehicleType=Toyota tarago
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=282,000
Trans=Manual
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head gaskets
comment=Dear Sir, LubeMobile replaced my cylinder head in late 1998. After
13,000ks my head gasket started to leak & they replaced it saying it was
faulty. Now 16,000ks later it’s done the same thing again. The car has
been
serviced regulary and has not had any overheating problems. I have been
using good quality oil for older engines and a good quality coolent. The
engine block and head show no signs of corrosion. The leak occured between
the water jacket and the rear cylinder. They used a mono-torque ACL Gasket
which they have sent back to ACL. This was over a week ago and my engine (
3y ) is still sitting in pieces, despite e-mails to LubeMobile and ACL I
have had no answers from them. Have you any idea’s, and do you get any
other
complaints regarding LubeMobiles service.
Yours Sincerely
Kim
Answer
Kim in all fairness LubeMobile is a company that supply mechanic’s
To answer your question you are the first to inform me of a problem but the
problem is not with LubeMobile
If the headgasket, and or cylinder head has become faulty, this is not the
fault of LubeMobile but the fault of either
and head reco company and or the head gasket maker ACL
I completely understand how you must feel but a mechanic can’t be to blame
for the failure of automotive parts
They must be upset also that this is a repeat problem, let me also add I
cannot even recommend any company because every time I do
I’m getting negative feedback so Kim you are not on your own here its a
problem on the increase
Who have you spoken to about this head gasket problem (Darren)
I have spoken to and e-mailed ‘Mr Paul Sayer from
LubeMobiles Head Office’ as well as ‘Mr Richard Seduikis’ the manager in
Melbourne. I have also contacted ‘Mr Wayne Ryan’ in the ACL Gasket
manufacturing company in QLD.
I have received no reply at all from ACL and my last few e-mails to
Lubemobile have not been replied to. Also when the mechanic took my
engine
apart he took my cylinder head with him when he left, I have asked that they
return the head ‘without having the evidence of where the Gasket problem
occured’ to me. As yet this has not been done, so I don’t even have a
whole engine.

Regards
from an extremely frustrated
Kim T
Kim
Thanks for your prompt reply Darren,
I would like to know who should be responsible for repairing the car,
I only dealt with LubeMobile, they supplied the reco head and the gasket, surely
it’s their responsibility to take the matter up with their suppliers.
Regards
Kim
Answer
This would depend on the warranty you have on the invoice, also it maybe the
case of several parties could be partly to blame
the aim is for you to get your Toyota on the road
Question 3-3 Brake Caliper Size
username=Peter O’Neill
VehicleType=1969 Mustang Fastback
VehicleAge=33
DistanceTravelled=”Many” not a suitable answer
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Brake Caliper size
comment=Hi Darren,
I am doing up a 1969 Mustang Fastback and I want to do a brake upgrade.  It
is fitted with factory discs on the front.  I have sourced a set of
performance calipers (wilwood Dynalite) for it.  I also want to fit DBA
Longlife rotors to it (cross drilled and slotted).  The discs for this
particular car are 24mm wide.  The calipers I have sourced are 31.8mm wide.
Are these two parts compatible, or are the calipers too big or small for
those discs?
I hope you can help me out with my enquiry.
Peter.  Brisbane, Qld, Oz.
Answer -This Answer was directed to DBA
Peter I have made several attempts to make contact with Phillip Joseph at
DBA but until now he has not supplied any information
that I can help you with but I will try again because this is a question for
DBA
DBA E-mailed  there Answer
Dear Peter & Lucas,
Please note, I have not received or been informed of any of your enquiries by either email or via other communication.
I am always willing to help any enquiry.
We manufacture many discs for our customers throughout Australia & overseas ( Baer Racing, AEM, etc ).
Re: 1969 Mustang upgrade:
We do not recommend a specific disc.
You have not mentioned any Diameter… 330mm ???
This diameter is popular 330mm x 32mm ???
Off-set = hat ???
If you could supply a dimensional drawing,
diameter, thickness, off-set, center hole etc
Please take note, we cannot suggest or recommend upgrade, due to legal reasons.
No warranty can apply to our product, except for Government laws re: manufacturing liability.
We gaurantee our discs against any fault in manufacture, not for any use other than standard replacement.
I am happy to discuss further, however I would appreciate if you could telephone me, its quicker and I can answer specific details.
Kind Regards
Phillip Joseph DBA
02 – 9748 0211 Bus.
Question 3-4 Mitsubishi Mirage with poor fuel consumption
username=James P
VehicleType=1996 Mitsubishi Mirage
VehicleAge=5
DistanceTravelled=50000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Excessive Fuel Consumption
comment=Dear Virtual Mechanic,
I have just bought a 1996 Mitsubishi Mirage with Automatic transmission.  I
am having trouble with excessive fuel consumption.  The specifications for
the car are that it should get 5.2L/100km on the highway and 7.6L/100km in
the City.  I have tested it on the highway and I am only getting 7.0L/100km!
Very bad!  The car is in excellent condition, mechanically, however the
Automatic transmission may need a service. What do you think the problem is?
Regards,
James.
Darren
Are you or the driver a lead foot
James
Well, no.  That’s not exactly the answer I was looking for.  Can you please
have a bit more of a think about it and then get back to me.  I want a
serious answer please.  If you don’t have any idea, please say so.
Regards, James.
Darren
James I’m sorry I have no idea or perhaps are getting too many questions to
answer its a free service
but I cannot help all the people all the time
The Obvious question is who is servicing the car and are they changing the
air cleaner
Air may look ok but may still cause an excessive fuel consumption
Drivers like to blame anything but there bad habits
Example I renewed a set of disc pads for a customer, he comes back after 1
month and says they need to be changed again
He is not happy I ask him are you a lead foot answer NO I saw him on the
road driving his car and sure enough
he was showing to be an aggressive brake driver but he wanted to blame me
the bad mechanic for selling a set of disc pads that didn’t last
Sure you might think well it also depends on the rotor thickness, etc etc
So to answer your question the EFI will use according to what the foot
dictates, factors like correct servicing and driver history all have alot to
do with fuel consumption
Finally the only way is to measure the problem on a dyno and scope this way
you can see what the engine is doing and how the engine is coping
James
Dear Darren,
Thankyou very much for your reply.  I am sorry I was a bit rude in my last
email, I am having a bad day at work.  Thanks for your help.  I have just
changed the air cleaner and it was very dirty!  But I have another question;
How does the air filter affect the fuel economy in an EFI engine?  Doesn’t
the fuel enter the manifold in precise metered amounts from the injector,
hence the air should not affect it?  I don’t understand why it would affect
it, and how much it would affect it.
Regards,
James.
Darren
The EFI is not smart enough to realize if the air cleaner is blocked, all
the EFI can do is what it is programmed to do.
Modify the mixture to keep or maintain smooth running
If the air cleaner is offering any resistance and all air must flow via the
air cleaner then the EFI will consume more fuel
remember that your car may also be required to be driven in the high country
where the air is thinner therefore Mr Car maker has factored all possible
scenarios to keep or maintain Max power the trade off is “A dirty air
cleaner adds value to John Howard’s back pocket as we can pay more taxes by
purchasing more fuel”.
James
Dear Darren,
Thanks very much for your reply.  It has helped me to understand how it all
works a little better.  Thanks for your help.
Cheers, James.
Question 3-5 Toyota – Harmonic Balancer Spare Part not available
username=Joseph
VehicleType=Toyota Camry LE 1998
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=70,000 kms
Trans=Automatic
Driveline=FWD
Country=Philippines
State=Pasig Manila

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes

I have a Toyota Camry 98 (70,000 kms) with a 2.2 L    4 cyl engine.
The crankshaft pulley  separated so I brought it to a Toyota dealer and
was there for for a week.  They said that the part (No. 1340874041 ) is not
yet available and doesn’t know when the part is gonna arrive.  I finally
decided to pull out the unit and went to a Toyota parts dealer but got the
same answer.
Can I just have it welded and balanced?  Is this the right thing to do or
would it cause more damage in the long run?
And how do I loosen the screw that holds the crankshaft pulley: clockwise
or counter-clockwise?
I’d really appreciate your reply on this. Thank you.
Joseph
Answer
Joseph,

The crankshaft pulley is also known as the Harmonic balancer, and it has a
purpose and that is to balance the vibration of the internal combustion
engine, from idle to full throttle all engines require a harmonic balancer
As far as Toyota not having the parts in stock, this is something very
annoying perhaps they should offer a parts service agreement.
A company that cannot provide a harmonic balancer, then perhaps this is
something to be remembered when you go shopping for another feeling.
Question 3-6 HONDA – Do I get a low mile engine or not ???
username=Mel
VehicleType=Honda Prelude 2.1
VehicleAge=11 years (1991)
DistanceTravelled=90,000 miles
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=am Cdn in USA
State=NY

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=??worth replacing blown engine
comment=Hello:
I am delighted to find your site and am writing with sore butt from kicking
myself hard for not checking my oil recently.  Rod broke yesterday producing
hole in bottom of engine(Ouch!) I have murdered my car. I can get used
engine imported fr Japan with 40-50k miles for US$2K installed.  Do you
think is worth it? BTW I paid US$3,500 for the car at 80,000miles; it is 5
speed standard and in amazing shape – virtually new.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT, I appreciate that you offer this.
Answer
I have had the experience of using the imported engine’s and they can be a
pain in the trunk, because for some reason some items are different
this is really a question for you
If you intend to keep this beautiful looking vehicle for a long time then
find a good shop to overhaul the engine
If you intend to get rid of the vehicle in the short term then get the
supposed low mile engine
The items to watch out for on a jap motor are slightly different ignitions
systems and timing belts not to mention a different type of alternator
and or sump
Question 3-7 1 of many whom just don’t understand how to fill a simple form out
1992 Toyota Previa Van
130,000 miles, Automatic Transmission
Front Wheele Drive
Yes, we have information on Road Safety
USA, Florida
SUBJECT:  Spark Plug Replacement; 1992 Toyota Previa Van

We have a 1992 Toyota Previa Van, 4 clyinder, with 130,000 miles, that we are attempting to change the Spark Plugs.  I can get the two rear plugs removed, but there is not enough clearance between the firewall and the engine to pull the spark plug wires off the two foward plugs.  How do I replace the two front spark plug wires with such little clearance?

Thank You,

Ray Desvousges
Answer
Fill the form out and wait for our reply how hard is that…………………………..
Question 3-8 Hyundai Lantra Spark plug leads @ 24,000
username=Aviva Goldman
VehicleType=Hyundai Lantra
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=24,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Austrlalia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=spark plug leads
comment=Is it reasonable that the all spark plug leads are wearing out on my
1999 Lantra which has only done 24,000. I had one replaced (not under
warranty) because car was “missing” and Hyundai wanted to replace all 4 at
great expense to me. Car is now driving okay.
Answer
Aviva,

Please forgive me for say the following about Hyundai.
It does not surprise me that the leads required replacement at  only
24,000Kms and I agree this is wrong but you only get what you pay for,
now this is where I also do not understand how such a cheap purchase price
can command a very high service cost and most Hyundai owners
get a shock when its time for servicing to see an expensive invoice
To answer your specific question it is normal practise to renew all leads at
one time to eliminate any possibility for the other leads to fail
However I believe Hyundai should wave the charge given that the vehicle has
only travelled 24,000kms
The big question in my mind is how can the RACV rate a Hyundai car of the
year when they are acting for there members
Someone said to me once money talks all languages.

I hope this helps
Darren

PS RACV are you still acting for YOUR members ????????…………..
Question 3-9 Mitsubushi Express 4WD
username=Den
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Express 4WD

VehicleAge=5
Trans=Manual
Country=AUS
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Is this a good vehicle to drive around Oz?
comment=Greetings virtual mechanic
I’m about to buy a Mitsubishi 4WD next week in which to drive around Oz (I
want a camper van that takes me to remote places, but I don’t want a truck).
Trouble is, I’ve been told it’s not a good idea to get a van (Mitsubishi or
Toyota Hiace) because the parts are hard to find in remote places.
Considering we won’t be in a rush to get from town to town, and we won’t
mind spending an extra, say, $100 on the delivery parts, do you still think
it’s a bad idea?

Yours gratefully
Den
Answer
Good question but next time if you send it more than once I’ll let your
tyres down

You just may find better mechanic’s in the bush like I did, in Catherine NT.
I’d consider the Mitsu because I have one and have taken it everywhere (Only
on sealed roads) in Australia
Mitsubishi made a huge mistake when they made the L300 Van, because its one
of the most reliable vans made
As far as getting parts, I’d be real careful who I’d listen too, as you know
there is an expert on every corner.

The only thing I decided to do is keep on the sealed roads because some
corrugated roads can do alot of damage to the suspension
Question 3-10 unable to fill a simple form out for a free service
Hello, i have recently purchased a 1995 vw golf with 82000 miles on it.  Just the other day, i started the car and the idle raced up to 20 which I thought was fine seeing that it did drop after about 10 seconds.  however the idle appears to be looping from normal to 15-20 back down to normal idle.  this does not happen all the time, but i sense this still may be detrimental to the automobile. ANY SUGGESTIONS
Answer
Fill the form out ……………………………………………..
Question 3-11 Car Manuals
username=dawn woolley
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Sigma Sedan G.J. 1982
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=car manual
comment=Dear Sir/Madam,
I’m looking for a car manual for a friend of the model car as above. Do you
know where I might find an old manual? Dawn
Answer
Go here  http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012720/http://www.ellery.com.au/
Question 3-12 VR Commodore Sticking Throttle
username=Sean
VehicleType=VR Commodore
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=300,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=SA

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=High reving
comment=I have a 1993 VR Commodore V6. My main problem with it at the moment
is the high revs. More often than not the engine revs high – as opposed to
idling normally (500rpm) it will idle at 2000 rpm. It does this when it
feels like it. When driving the car it is always “pushing forward”
especially when sitting at traffic lights, and at lower speeds (60Kmh) When
declerating from higher speeds (80Kmh to 110Kmh) It “pulses” and rocks the
car forwards unless i put my foot on the accelerator. It is like it is
hunting, without actually hunting. If i put the car in nuetral(while driving
or stationary) the “hunting” stops. But the revs go up to 2000rpm.
It seems to me that there is a fuel blockage or something up with the
injectors . I have just recently had the knock sensor replaced due to a
problem with stalling. (Which it has solved) but this particular problem
seems to be getting more frequent. I did a test today with it when it was
“playing up”. I pulled away from the kerb without touching the accelerator.
Within 1 km i was up to 60kmh!!!! After that i had to accelerate to get to
the 80km speed limit….After about an hour of driving (high speed
80-110kmh) it stopped doing it and went back to normal, for another half an
hour of driving. After not driving it for about 2 hrs it was then back to
high reving as soon as i started it. On a cold start it either revs high or
revs normally and it is the same for hot starts. I should mention also that
i have had the transmission replaced 5 times over the last 9 yrs.(I bought
it new) This was due to it slipping and the last time the trans completely
lost the plot. It still slips but it is ok most of the time. Could the high
reving be somehow related to this?
Any help would be much appreciated,
Sean
Answer
Could be a damaged inner cable but it should not be driven as it may cause
an accident in the wet
Question 3-13 Transfer Case
username=Judy
VehicleType=1994 Chevy Blazer
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=103070
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=United States
State=New York

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=transfercase
comment=My Blazer spits out transmission fluid from the overflow tube on hot
days.  My husband and I thought it was comming from the transmission and
found out it was from the transfer case instead.  How do we correct this
problem without taking it to a garage and spending a fortune.  My husband
has done all of our mechanical work on all of our vehicles from the 1965
chevy  Malibu to the 1998 chevy s10,  granted the 1965 is much easier and
less complicated.  Any help from you will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Judy.  oopps I forgot to add it is 4 wheel drive.
Answer
Sorry not sure
Question 3-14 Head Gasket
username=Dan Roth
VehicleType=Ford Probe
VehicleAge=7
DistanceTravelled=95,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Pennsylvania
DateDD=02
DateMM=06
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head Gasket Sealants
comment=I have a 95 Ford Probe with a 2.0L engine.  The water pump failed
and the engine overheated.  Two of the four cylinders get coolant into them
and of course it is difficult to start the engine.  I tried “Blue Devil”
sealant to seal the possible blown head gasket.  It worked for 3 days then
leaked again.  Do you know of any sealant that works well?
Dan Roth, Pennsylvania, USA
Answer
I think get it repaired
Question 3-15 Toyota Vienta V6 (Toyota say no to LPG) can I fit gas ?…….
username=Chris
VehicleType=Toyota Vienta V6
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=60,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=LPG conversion for Toyotas
comment=Hello,
Question: can Toyota engines (particularly Vienta V6) take LPG conversion?

Background: I have a Vienta V6.  The need to increase travel has me
thinking of LPG,  but have come across conflicting
information.
1)  Some say any modern engine that can take unleaded petrol can take LPG.
Others, say LPG needs specially hardened valves
& seats etc, as LPG is even drier & burns hotter than unleaded petrol.
And ‘ordinary’
Toyota engines are thus not LPG compatible.

2)  I called up Toyota – the official stance is “LPG not recommended”.
Yet, I also found out (friend in oil industry) that almost all taxis in
Japan run on LPG.  And most taxis are Toyotas!  Unless, of course, there
is actually a different engine for taxis.  I am unable to find this out,
as I can’t read Jap websites.

Have you come across any problems with valve seat recession?
Any info gratefully received
Thanks
Chris
Answer
Chris,
This is a very good question because my answer will change from year to
year.
I had to ring my friend at RL Walker, Noble Park 9791 2549 where Rod
installs LPG to almost any and every vehicle
he also has alot to do with taxis.
This is the following answer
The Toyota is able to be fitted with LPG but the reason why Toyota may say
no is because you will require engine work in the long term.
Its to do with the valves, even tho they are hydraulic they require shims to
prevent any premature wear.
Using gas may require the vales and seats to be check more closely at
service intervals
If your Mr private and travelling about 25,000 kms per year then it “may”
take several years before major work is required.

The taxis in Japan may only operate for X amount of Kms before they are
change over or repaired.
For some reason Toyota may not be interested in running vehicles on gas this
is there right but at a cost to many.

I want to offer another idea, and that is Mitsubishi Magna is bringing out a
factory fitted LPG vehicle this to me is a much better idea because
they seem to listen to there customer needs and are able to make the effort
to change.

Chris I hope this has helped you I know changing the feeling to a Mitsubishi
Magna is at a cost but your pocket will benefit in the long term.

username=Jim Mayhan
VehicleType=blazer
VehicleAge=11.5
DistanceTravelled=150,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=USA
State=Georgia
Subject=Vibration
comment=I have a 1991 S10 4DR 4WD Blazer.  I purchased the Blazer in
September 1990.  Over the past year I have had vibration problems at highway
speeds and on accellaration and decellaration.  I have had new tires and
shocks and had the tires balanced a few times.  Finally, I took it to
the dealer and explained the situation.  On Tuesday, 4/16/02, I took it to
the dealer.  He was intent on telling me it was a tire out of balance condition.
After spending $129.90 on tests and balancing, he said the balancing
they did should fix the problem.  Guess what, it is no different than when I
brought it in.  I hate to spend too much money guessing (CV Joints,
bearings, etc.) on a vehicle with 150,000 miles on it.  Any suggestions.
Thank you very much for any assistance,
Jim Mayhan
Answer
James does anyone in America know how to fix a bloody car these days
??????????
Are the wheels non standard ?
I had a similar problem with non standard wheels causing the problem and it
put stress on the shockers thus requiring both struts to be renewed
But I must say it would be great if a company anywhere in the world
could make shockers to last longer than 40,000 Kms and tyres not to fracture so easy.
Henry ford once said bankers are worse people to ever deal with but I feel
some after market parts manufactures need to stop ripping people off.
Cont
Thank you very much for your response.  I  do not believe I have non
tandard wheels.  I have aluminum 15″ wheels.  The tires currently on the
Blazer are LT235/75 R15.  In October, I had new shock absorbers put on the
front and the back.  Do you think the new shocks could be bad.  I have a 1yr
parts and labor warrenty and do you think it would be worth my while getting
them checked?
Thank you again for any help.
Jim
Answer
Yes get opinions also from other shops but make sure the wheels are not the
cause of the problem
Honda Prelude Power Steering Belt and Adjustment
username=Karen T

VehicleType=1991 Honda Prelude
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=146,000 kms
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Canada
State=Nova Scotia

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Power Steering Belt
comment=Hi,

I own a 1991 Honda Prelude.  I have replaced the power steering belt and the
alternator belt.  Both have been “squealing”.  I adjusted the alternator
belt and it is now tighter.  However, the power steering belt is still loose
and very noisy when I start it up.  How do I tighten the belt to
prevent
this high pitched noise.  Thanks.
Answer
The new belts will require re-adjusting after a few days perhaps
its loose now but better soon
Cont
Yes Darren,

I realize that it does require adjustment.  My question still is how do
I adjust the tension on the belt.  I have tried to loosen the adjustment
pulley, but to no avail.  The darn thing still won’t budge.  Any ideas
on how to loosen the nut on the pulley.  I have used all kinds of  WD40
on it. Help!!!!
Darren
Can you send me an image of it and then I may explain where to go
Karen
Hi Darren,
I figured out how to tighten the belt, but the main and only problem I
am having right now is that the bolt on the pulley is seized.  This is a real
problem because I have to back off the main bolt on the center of the pulley
to be able to use the adjustment screws.  How do you loosen a seized bolt?
Some people have said to use heat, but in order to do that I will have to
drop the engine.  There is only about 1 inch of space between the pulley and
the side of the engine compartment.  Hopefully you’ll know some industry
tricks for loosening bolts.  Thanks ever so much for your help.  I think
this is going to be a major concern for most Prelude owners since their cars
are creaping up their in age.
Darren
Spray or to put it in another way flood the bolts with WD40 over several
nights to see if this may create a difference, enough for you to make that
vital adjustment
Karen
Ok, I’ll give that a try and see what happens.  I finally found a belt (away
buying and returning 10 of them) that fits.  Now to get that “stupid” bolt
freed up–this would be a joy.  I’ll let you know what happens.  I really
think once we get it freed up, you should really put that one on your site.
Apparently I’m not the only one with a Prelude that is having the same
problem.

Thanks again.  I’ll let you know how it goes.
VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1 Vibration
username=Eugene

VehicleType=VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=200,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Au
State=WA

sThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Vibration
comment= Hi, I have a vibration problem in the front end that shakes the
steering wheel left to right. I have had this problem come and go since I
first purchased this car. This occours at 90-105km.
I have replaced the front tyres with P6000 Perallis. Which are fitted on
CSA
Alloy Wheels, bought from new. Had all four balanced and a wheel
alignment.
I have always found a problem with the front wheel bearings working loose.
the strut mounts have been replaced.  engine mounts have been replaced.
power steering leeking but tie rod ends seem ok, bushings seem ok.  what
else can I check? I also have a shaking problem in the rear. Seems to have
got worse over time.  I found a leeking shock and have orderd new ones. I
have checked the center tale shaft bearing, seems ok.  Anything else I
should check?
Any info would be much appreciated.  Thank you.
Answer
Eugene,

Even though the shockers may seem ok they may still be causing a problem
I do not recommend Munro as they don’t seem to last the distance
Look for any tyre fractures and or bent rims
Try that
DGB
Ford Escort Cooling System
username=Daniel Felice

VehicleType=ford escort
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=225877
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Sydney
DateDD=02
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=cooling system
comment=Can you please help me i have a 1980 model ford escort and while
driving the temp needle doesn’t move but when im stopped at traffic lights
of in traffic it goes up to boiling then when i keep driving it goes back to cold…..
i’ve changes the thermostat,ratiator and i’ve disconnected the heater
because i was told that it could be blocked, i’ve also been driving the car
with no thermostat it still does the same thing.

please help……

Answer
Danier,
This is a normal problem with your type of vehicle, its because the fan is
not effective at idle
You need to consider getting a thermo fan fitted this way it should cut in
at idle speed
DGB
Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback Clutch & Brakes
username=Filipo

VehicleType=Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback
VehicleAge=12 DistanceTravelled=260k
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=New Zealand

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Clutch and Brakes
comment=Hello there,
Would like some instructions on how to change the clutch on my car. Also
would like to know why the braking is pulsing as well as the car begins to
shake when driving around and over 100k
Also would like to know why water is leaking from the front of the engine
(according to a friend – this is the water pump – has a little hole on it
and is leaking water). Lastly – the car does not appear to run stable – rpms
rise and drop all the time – when driving – its a bit bumpy sort of like not
firing correctly. I have replaced spark plugs, leads, same problem.
If you can give some clues – I would appreciate it very much. Thank
you in advance

Regards
P Filipo
Answer
I don’t have the free time to instruct you on how to fit the clutch As for
the braking system it would be a good idea to check the following Check tie
rods Machine the disc’s rotors also make sure they are not under size The
water leaking could be anything send me an image showing where the water is
leaking DGB
Cont
Thank you Darren
I really appreciate your response. I will get on to sending you an image of
the water leak as soon as I can

Kind regards

P Filipo
Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980  VB Commodore Ignition Barrel
username=Gary Mayes

VehicleType=Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=245,000 Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=VB Commodore Ingintion Barrel
comment=I’m currently attempting to replace the ingnition barrel on a Holden
VB Commodore. (1980, red motor, auto 3.3L)
I have read the section in the VB  maintenance manual throroughly and cannot
get the ignition barrel out from the steering column.
As per manual, I have removed steering wheel, indicator switch and the
hazard relay. The manual then says to stick a small screwdriver or pin into
the indicator switch hole and the barrel will slide out. The only access to
the barrel is one hole, just to the right of the steering lock pin, which
gives access to a cogwheel assembly which rotates as the key is turned in
the ignition.
I have been advised that I need to depress the tab on the main ignition
barrel body, which will release the unit from the steering column, but I
just can’t get access to this tab.
Also the manual says I should have the ingnition in the ‘Off’ position for
removal, but the tab on the barrel will only depress when the key is in the
‘On’ position??

Confused!
Answer
Its a real bugger the first time around, perhaps the pin requires more force
Gary
Cheers for that Darren. I actually found out what the problem was. The slot where you can access the pin was still closed from the initial casting of the alloy. So when you look at it there appears to be no hole at all. However if you poke around with a screwdriver, where the pin “should” lie, the thin alloy easily pushes through, revealing the pin on the barrel. One for the maintenance manual I guess!!
Anyway, thanks for your reply.
1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon  Steps to remove water pump
username=massey
VehicleType=1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon
VehicleAge=13
DistanceTravelled=100,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=New Zealand
State=North Island

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Steps to remove water pump
I have had trouble removing radiator so as to get a better veiw of bolts on water pump.
ive managed to dismantal all bolts that secure radiator,i have also removed
nuts that are secured to the pulley,the propellor i cant figure how to
remove as my attempts have been futile. the radiator is in the way and cant remove.
Answer
Massey,
You need a special large open ender that is 1 1/16 it also will only turn anti clockwise see how you go with that
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch but did not fill out the form …………

Subject: Automotive Question

I was recently involved in a serious accident that was a direct result of
being towed. I am curious to how the brakes of my automatic vehicle (1985
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch – 120,000 ks) would have operated while the
engine was turned off, and the car was being moved whilst in neutral.
There seems to be a large percentage of opinions that believe the brake
performance would have been severely restricted or non operational.

Thank You – Kat
Answer
This is a free service, to get this free service fill the form out……………
AR Ford Teltsar Ghia faulty electronic dash Workshop Manual
username=brad maker

VehicleType=AR Ford Teltsar Ghia
VehicleAge=1985
DistanceTravelled=264000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIAN
State=QLD

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=faulty electronic dash
comment=digital dash on telstar shows the speedo flashing with ignition on
or with engine running,also fuel and temperature digital gauges do not work
at all. When stardard analogue dash is fitted every thing works ok. Do you
have any imformation on the electronic boards fitted inside the digital dash
and possibably what board is faulty . If not can you supply the electronic
wirirg circuits for the boards and the dash it is not available through
Haynes or Gregorys Manuals ,thank you.
Answer
Try here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Holden Calais VT Idler pulleys
username=Clive

VehicleType=Holden Calais VT
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=69,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=03
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Idler pulleys
comment=I’ve been getting this ringing sound from the idler pulley’s when in
drive and reverse gets worse when steering wheel is turned, I’ve replaced
both idler pulley’s and support also the belt it shut’s up for awhile then
the noise comes back changed it again and still there. Could it be something
else getting really frustrated with it
Answer
Clive
We still have a possible fault in the following areas
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Perhaps remove the belt and rotate the pulleys feeling for any rough bearing
noise
Ford Bronco Charging system ?……
username=Dan Miller

VehicleType=Ford Bronco
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=190,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=US
State= Nebraska

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Charging
comment=On my Bronco I have a new alternator , new regulator, and a good
battery (12.5 volts)and i have checked all my wires with a multi-gauge and
it is still not charging. I have a dead battery every couple of weeks. I
think just from starting .also i checked the battery with the multi-gauge
and i only get about 10v after its started it remains the same.  I was told
too that if i remove the negative cable from the battery i could tell if it
was charging cuz the alternator would keep it going but when i do it dies ..
I have done this before and it has kept running , anyways I can use all help
i can get..
Thank You
Dan Miller
Answer
Dan,
The alternator should be charging out at 13.5 – 14.2 it will only do this if
the following are in order
Alternator is charging out 13.5 – 14.2
If the fan belt is firm
Battery is in good condition (get it tested to make sure)
Battery terminals are firm and not corroded
Positive wires are in good condition
Earth lead to the engine is secure

Try that Dan
1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
username=Andrew

VehicleType=1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
comment=Dear Darren,

Could you please tell me how to set the ignition timing on a 1985 VK V8
(308) Commodore Berlina.  I recently replaced the carburettor, as it had a
perforated diaphragm. Since replacing the carburettor, the car has not idled
as smoothly as it should.  By a process of elimination, I have come to the
conclusion that the timing is out, this was confirmed by checking the
timing. I have been unable to find any information on how to re-set the
timing. Hoping you are able to help.

Kind Regards,
Andrew
Victoria/Australia
Answer
Andrew you will need to go here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Maxima Intermittent misfire
username=Bob Ennis

VehicleType=Maxima
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=65k
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=A.C.T.

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Intermittent missfire
comment=Hi Darren, Just a bit of info about myself. Ex-mechanic (got out in
84, after 20 years, just as the electronics came in) still TRY to keep up,
but it’s a loosing battle!
This one has got me stumped! It’s a 99 maxima, serviced by the book since
new. (by me) It missfires, ie: a totaly dead cylinder, when it feels like
it. No apparent reason. Sometimes after 20km, sometimes on cold startup.
Sometimes not for a week. Don’t notice a loss of power on the highway.
Have done the obvious things, like new plugs ($160), cleaned the throttle
body, new air filter, checked timing, checked for loose hoses and
connections.
When it is missing the exhaust sounds like a burnt valve, and it feels to
“suck back”.
This condition only lasts for 3 to 5 minutes, then it reverts back to
normal on it’s own.
On reflection, it goes back to a “won’t idle” situation a few months ago.
I cleaned the throttle body and gave it a drink of injector cleaner.(can’t
remember the brand) It then ran perfectly for a few weeks.
Have had it into the local dealer, and of course, it wouldn’t do it.(they
think I’m a nut) Before I let them have access to my bank account(they want to start
replaceing coils, injectors and such)what do you think about the
possibility of a hydrolic lifter problem?
I’m happy to drive it untill something totaly drops the bundle, but the wife
wants it fixed!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Bob.
Answer
Bob,
About 1 in every 150 questions I enjoy and yours is one of them.
I went to the trouble to ask my ECU repair tech man and we both feel it is
not an electronic problem
I feel it maybe dirty fuel hanging around the or one of the injectors
I understand your wife is not happy but you will need to catch it when it
happens and try to work out what injector is putting stress on the
relationship
Ford tx 5   (turbo)  Bearings front
username=Leon

VehicleType=ford tx 5   (turbo)
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Bearings front
comment=Hello Mate,This for my daughter her cat is a ford tx5..turbo year 88
she has a grinding sound when the car is moving i thought it might be the
gear box but it changes good,ive tried to undo the lock nut, the kind that
was kinked into the axle shaft like key grove.It wount move what ever iv
done 32mm socket on long bar still wont budge L/hand side.if i heat it is
there nylon bushes or other things there .And do you think that noisre is
the bearing .thanks mate
Answer
Can you record the noise and e-mail it to me in MP3 format
Ford Telstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve Fitting a Timing belt
username=Neil Coetzee

VehicleType=FordTelstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve
VehicleAge=8 yrs (1994model)
DistanceTravelled=275000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Fitting a Timing belt
comment=Hi.
Having just replaced the water pump as the old one was shot,
I removed the timing belt to get to the water pump without moving the cam
pulleys,
They are atill in their original places, But I cannot refit the belt, it wion’t go back on.
How do I fit the belt ?
Should I position the pulleys etc before refitting the belt?
What is the correct proceedure to fit the timing belt ?
Answer
You really need the manual to do it for the first time
Datsun 260Z  jump starting methodology
username=Eric Bettio

VehicleType=Datsun 260Z
VehicleAge=27
DistanceTravelled=120,000 est
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=jump starting methodology
comment=I have just found your website and like it very much. My question
is a general one regarding your method for jump starting a car. Why is it that
the final connection of jumper leads is to the chassis of the car rather
than to the negative terminal of the battery (as it is on the car with the
good battery)? I have seen and heard many times that the final connection
is to the chassis but see no reason why.
Thanks,
Eric
Answer
The final connection is where the circuit is completed therefore its where
the spark will also occur
apart from this the reason is to jump start the start motor not the battery
Cont
Thank you for your answer, it all makes a bit more sense now, I know the
batter gives off fammable gases (hydrogen and oxygen) and a spark could be a
problem.
thanks again
eric