September 1, 2009, 19:05
Combustion deposits are slight and not heavy enough to cause any detrimental effect on engine performance. Note the brown to greyish tan colour, and minimal amount of electrode erosion which clearly indicates the plug is in the correct heat range and has been operating in a “healthy” engine.

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Information supplied by Champion Sparkplugs ©2000
September 1, 2009, 07:45
Cooling/Electrical System – FanBelts
Checking the fan belt is an easy task. By pushing on the fan belt you can ascertain if the tension is firm or loose. Also, first thing in the morning, by revving the engine, you may notice a high pitched screech. This indicates the fan belt is loose and needs attention ASAP. A high pitched screech may also self destruct a fan belt particularly if it’s a polyrib belt, that is a later generation type belt. It’s also called a serpentine belt.

September 1, 2009, 07:43
Cooling System – Water
PURPOSE
Water is designed to maintain normal operating temperature and will only perform this function if all other components are operating correctly. Water should include an additive to prevent corrosion and erosion. If your vehicle is driven in either a very cold or very hot climate it may be necessary to add either an anti -freeze or anti-boil solution. This will only work effectively if the corrosive inhibitor is changed every 12 months.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR
The colour of the water tells a very good story about the condition of the cooling system. Brown water is the worst, clear water is not good; green water is best and it needs to be changed every 12 months to keep the colour at its best.
IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?
If your vehicle is pre 1990 then a good corrosive inhibitor may be okay. If it is after 1990 then contact your dealer as the seals and welsh plugs require specific inhibitors to protect these components. These additives can be expensive.
TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT
If your vehicle has brown water, disconnect the heater hose and remove the radiator cap and secure a garden hose in the heater hose and turn on with a moderate pressure. This is the best way to reverse flush the cooling system. Please note that this should only be done when the engine is cold. It may require several applications until the water runs clear. It is a good idea to turn the heater tap as this will also flush the heater core, in case it might be partially blocked.
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September 1, 2009, 07:27
Power Steering – Fluid Level
Checking the power steering level is an easy task. You need to check 2 things with the power steering. 1: that the power steering fan belt is in good condition and that there’s no squeaking on a full lock or a high pitched screech and 2: that the power steering fluid is not descending. If you find that the fluid is descending over a period of time, say, a week or a month, you have a serious leak. Power steering fluid leaking can be serious. Please note that it is a highly flammable fluid just like transmission fluid. If you do notice that the fluid is descending you need to have that leak repaired ASAP to prevent any damage or a possible underbonnet fire.

September 1, 2009, 07:24
Checking the engine oil
Checking the oil level on a weekly basis is very important. You also need to check that the oil level is not descending. The best time to check the oil is when the engine is cold on a flat surface.
If you find that it’s quite damp around the engine this is an indicator of oil leaking. If the sump is quite damp it could indicate that the oil is leaking on the road. This can be quite dangerous to motorcyclists. If you see the oil descending or you notice the engine sump is damp you need to do something about it as soon as you can to prevent a potential accident on the road.
September 1, 2009, 07:21
Engine – Oil Leaks – Rear Main Seal
PURPOSE
The rear main seal is at the rear of the crankshaft, sealing the oil inside the engine and preventing it from leaking outside the rear of the crankshaft. The rear main seal is designed to last at least 100,000kms. Unfortunately, with a longitudinal motor, rear main seals may only last 60,000-80,000kms.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR
When checking for oil leaks it’s always good to check underneath the vehicle around the rear of the engine, making sure it is around the rear main seal and not around the top of the head. Sometimes a leaking rocket cover gasket may be the cause, if after replacing the rear main seal, there is still oil leaking. The best way to check any seal is to give the engine a complete steam clean but be very careful not to spray the steam around any ignition componentry or carburettor as this will affect the ignition system and also may cause a non start.
IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?
The rear main seal itself costs around $15.00 but the labour can cost around $350.00 as it can be a full day’s job with some vehicles, because either the engine or the transmission has to come out, to replace the seal. Some rear main seals may cost $700.00 depending on the type of seal fitted. It may be a sealed unit or a wick seal. A wick seal is the worst seal because it is very difficult to fit and to ensure that there is no leaking.
