| Question
USA-1-1 |
username=Jim
Mayhan
VehicleType=blazer
VehicleAge=11.5
DistanceTravelled=150,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=USA
State=Georgia
Subject=Vibration
comment=I have a 1991 S10 4DR 4WD Blazer. I purchased the
Blazer in
September 1990. Over the past year I have had vibration
problems at highway
speeds and on accellaration and decellaration. I have had
new tires and
shocks and had the tires balanced a few times. Finally, I
took it to
the dealer and explained the situation. On Tuesday, 4/16/02,
I took it to
the dealer. He was intent on telling me it was a tire out of
balance condition.
After spending $129.90 on tests and balancing, he said the
balancing
they did should fix the problem. Guess what, it is no
different than when I
brought it in. I hate to spend too much money guessing (CV
Joints,
bearings, etc.) on a vehicle with 150,000 miles on it. Any
suggestions.
Thank you very much for any assistance,
Jim Mayhan |
| Answer |
James
does anyone in America know how to fix a bloody car these days
??????????
Are the wheels non standard ?
I had a similar problem with non standard wheels causing the
problem and it
put stress on the shockers thus requiring both struts to be
renewed
But I must say it would be great if a company anywhere in the
world
could make shockers to last longer than 40,000 Kms and tyres not
to fracture so easy.
Henry ford once said bankers are worse people to ever deal with
but I feel
some after market parts manufactures need to stop ripping people
off. |
| Cont |
Thank
you very much for your response. I do not believe I
have non
tandard wheels. I have aluminum 15" wheels. The
tires currently on the
Blazer are LT235/75 R15. In October, I had new shock
absorbers put on the
front and the back. Do you think the new shocks could be
bad. I have a 1yr
parts and labor warrenty and do you think it would be worth my
while getting
them checked?
Thank you again for any help.
Jim |
| Answer |
Yes
get opinions also from other shops but make sure the wheels are
not the
cause of the problem |
| Honda
Prelude Power Steering Belt and Adjustment |
username=Karen
T
VehicleType=1991 Honda Prelude
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=146,000 kms
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Canada
State=Nova Scotia
Date01-07-2002
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Power Steering Belt
comment=Hi,
I own a 1991 Honda Prelude. I have replaced the power
steering belt and the
alternator belt. Both have been "squealing".
I adjusted the alternator
belt and it is now tighter. However, the power steering belt
is still loose
and very noisy when I start it up. How do I tighten
the belt to
prevent
this high pitched noise. Thanks.
|
| Answer |
The
new belts will require re-adjusting after a few days perhaps
its loose now but better soon
|
| Cont |
Yes
Darren,
I realize that it does require adjustment. My question still
is how do
I adjust the tension on the belt. I have tried to loosen the
adjustment
pulley, but to no avail. The darn thing still won't budge.
Any ideas
on how to loosen the nut on the pulley. I have used all
kinds of WD40
on it. Help!!!!
|
| Darren |
| Can
you send me an image of it and then I may explain where to go |
| Karen |
Hi
Darren,
I figured out how to tighten the belt, but the main and only
problem I
am having right now is that the bolt on the pulley is seized.
This is a real
problem because I have to back off the main bolt on the center of
the pulley
to be able to use the adjustment screws. How do you loosen a
seized bolt?
Some people have said to use heat, but in order to do that I will
have to
drop the engine. There is only about 1 inch of space between
the pulley and
the side of the engine compartment. Hopefully you'll know
some industry
tricks for loosening bolts. Thanks ever so much for your
help. I think
this is going to be a major concern for most Prelude owners since
their cars
are creaping up their in age. |
| Darren |
Spray
or to put it in another way flood the bolts with WD40 over several
nights to see if this may create a difference, enough for you to
make that
vital adjustment
|
| Karen |
Ok,
I'll give that a try and see what happens. I finally found a
belt (away
buying and returning 10 of them) that fits. Now to get that
"stupid" bolt
freed up--this would be a joy. I'll let you know what
happens. I really
think once we get it freed up, you should really put that one on
your site.
Apparently I'm not the only one with a Prelude that is having the
same
problem.
Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes.
|
| VP
II 93' V8 Holden Commodore BT1 Vibration |
username=Eugene
VehicleType=VP II 93' V8 Holden Commodore BT1
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=200,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Au
State=WA
Date 02-07-02
sThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Vibration
comment= Hi, I have a vibration problem in the front end that
shakes the
steering wheel left to right. I have had this problem come and go
since I
first purchased this car. This occours at 90-105km.
I have replaced the front tyres with P6000 Perallis. Which are
fitted on
CSA
Alloy Wheels, bought from new. Had all four balanced and a wheel
alignment.
I have always found a problem with the front wheel bearings
working loose.
the strut mounts have been replaced. engine mounts have been
replaced.
power steering leeking but tie rod ends seem ok, bushings seem ok.
what
else can I check? I also have a shaking problem in the rear. Seems
to have
got worse over time. I found a leeking shock and have orderd
new ones. I
have checked the center tale shaft bearing, seems ok.
Anything else I
should check?
Any info would be much appreciated. Thank you.
|
| Answer |
Eugene,
Even though the shockers may seem ok they may still be causing a
problem
I do not recommend Munro as they don't seem to last the distance
Look for any tyre fractures and or bent rims
Try that
DGB
|
| Ford
Escort Cooling System |
username=Daniel
Felice
VehicleType=ford escort
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=225877
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Sydney
DateDD=02
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=cooling system
comment=Can you please help me i have a 1980 model ford escort and
while
driving the temp needle doesn't move but when im stopped at
traffic lights
of in traffic it goes up to boiling then when i keep driving it
goes back to cold.....
i've changes the thermostat,ratiator and i've disconnected the
heater
because i was told that it could be blocked, i've also been
driving the car
with no thermostat it still does the same thing.
please help......
|
| Answer |
Danier,
This is a normal problem with your type of vehicle, its because
the fan is
not effective at idle
You need to consider getting a thermo fan fitted this way it
should cut in
at idle speed
DGB
|
| Ford
Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback Clutch &
Brakes |
username=Filipo
VehicleType=Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves,
hatchback
VehicleAge=12 DistanceTravelled=260k
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=New Zealand
Date 03-07-2002
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Clutch and Brakes
comment=Hello there,
Would like some instructions on how to change the clutch on my
car. Also
would like to know why the braking is pulsing as well as the car
begins to
shake when driving around and over 100k
Also would like to know why water is leaking from the front of the
engine
(according to a friend - this is the water pump - has a little
hole on it
and is leaking water). Lastly - the car does not appear to run
stable - rpms
rise and drop all the time - when driving - its a bit bumpy sort
of like not
firing correctly. I have replaced spark plugs, leads, same
problem.
If you can give some clues - I would appreciate it very much.
Thank
you in advance
Regards
P Filipo |
| Answer |
I
don't have the free time to instruct you on how to fit the clutch
As for
the braking system it would be a good idea to check the following
Check tie
rods Machine the disc's rotors also make sure they are not under
size The
water leaking could be anything send me an image showing where the
water is
leaking DGB
|
| Cont |
Thank
you Darren
I really appreciate your response. I will get on to sending you an
image of
the water leak as soon as I can
Kind regards
P Filipo |
| Holden
VB Commodore 3.3 1980 VB Commodore Ignition Barrel |
username=Gary
Mayes
VehicleType=Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=245,000 Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW
Date 27-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=VB Commodore Ingintion Barrel
comment=I'm currently attempting to replace the ingnition barrel
on a Holden
VB Commodore. (1980, red motor, auto 3.3L)
I have read the section in the VB maintenance manual
throroughly and cannot
get the ignition barrel out from the steering column.
As per manual, I have removed steering wheel, indicator switch and
the
hazard relay. The manual then says to stick a small screwdriver or
pin into
the indicator switch hole and the barrel will slide out. The only
access to
the barrel is one hole, just to the right of the steering lock
pin, which
gives access to a cogwheel assembly which rotates as the key is
turned in
the ignition.
I have been advised that I need to depress the tab on the main
ignition
barrel body, which will release the unit from the steering column,
but I
just can't get access to this tab.
Also the manual says I should have the ingnition in the 'Off'
position for
removal, but the tab on the barrel will only depress when the key
is in the
'On' position??
Confused!
|
| Answer |
| Its
a real bugger the first time around, perhaps the pin requires more
force |
| Gary |
|
Cheers for that Darren.
I actually found out what the problem was. The slot where you
can access the pin was still closed from the initial casting of
the alloy. So when you look at it there appears to be no hole at
all. However if you poke around with a screwdriver, where the
pin "should" lie, the thin alloy easily
pushes through, revealing the pin on the barrel. One for the
maintenance manual I guess!!
Anyway, thanks for your
reply.
|
| 1989
EA ford falcon Station Wagon Steps to remove water pump |
username=massey
VehicleType=1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon
VehicleAge=13
DistanceTravelled=100,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=New Zealand
State=North Island
DateDD=14-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Steps to remove water pump
I have had trouble removing radiator so as to get a better veiw of
bolts on water pump.
ive managed to dismantal all bolts that secure radiator,i have
also removed
nuts that are secured to the pulley,the propellor i cant figure
how to
remove as my attempts have been futile. the radiator is in the way
and cant remove. |
| Answer |
Massey,
You need a special large open ender that is 1 1/16 it also will
only turn anti clockwise see how you go with that |
Madza
323 5 door deluxe hatch but did not fill out the form ............ |
Sent:
Thursday, July 04, 2002 5:03 PM
Subject: Automotive Question
I was recently involved in a serious accident that was a direct
result of
being towed. I am curious to how the brakes of my automatic
vehicle (1985
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch - 120,000 ks) would have operated
while the
engine was turned off, and the car was being moved whilst in
neutral.
There seems to be a large percentage of opinions that believe the
brake
performance would have been severely restricted or non
operational.
Thank You - Kat
|
| Answer |
| This
is a free service, to get this free service fill the form
out............... |
| AR
Ford Teltsar Ghia faulty electronic dash Workshop Manual |
username=brad
maker
VehicleType=AR Ford Teltsar Ghia
VehicleAge=1985
DistanceTravelled=264000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIAN
State=QLD
Date 04-07-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=faulty electronic dash
comment=digital dash on telstar shows the speedo flashing with
ignition on
or with engine running,also fuel and temperature digital gauges do
not work
at all. When stardard analogue dash is fitted every thing works
ok. Do you
have any imformation on the electronic boards fitted inside the
digital dash
and possibably what board is faulty . If not can you supply the
electronic
wirirg circuits for the boards and the dash it is not available
through
Haynes or Gregorys Manuals ,thank you. |
| Answer |
| Try
here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html |
| Holden
Calais VT Idler pulleys |
username=Clive
VehicleType=Holden Calais VT
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=69,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=03
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Idler pulleys
comment=I've been getting this ringing sound from the idler
pulley's when in
drive and reverse gets worse when steering wheel is turned, I've
replaced
both idler pulley's and support also the belt it shut's up for
awhile then
the noise comes back changed it again and still there. Could it be
something
else getting really frustrated with it |
| Answer |
Clive
We still have a possible fault in the following areas
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Perhaps remove the belt and rotate the pulleys feeling for any
rough bearing
noise |
| Ford
Bronco Charging system ?...... |
username=Dan
Miller
VehicleType=Ford Bronco
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=190,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=US
State= Nebraska
Date 07-02-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Charging
comment=On my Bronco I have a new alternator , new regulator, and
a good
battery (12.5 volts)and i have checked all my wires with a
multi-gauge and
it is still not charging. I have a dead battery every couple of
weeks. I
think just from starting .also i checked the battery with the
multi-gauge
and i only get about 10v after its started it remains the same.
I was told
too that if i remove the negative cable from the battery i could
tell if it
was charging cuz the alternator would keep it going but when i do
it dies ..
I have done this before and it has kept running , anyways I can
use all help
i can get..
Thank You
Dan Miller |
| Answer |
Dan,
The alternator should be charging out at 13.5 - 14.2 it will only
do this if
the following are in order
Alternator is charging out 13.5 - 14.2
If the fan belt is firm
Battery is in good condition (get it tested to make sure)
Battery terminals are firm and not corroded
Positive wires are in good condition
Earth lead to the engine is secure
Try that Dan |
| 1985
Holden Commodore Berlina S/W Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T. |
username=Andrew
VehicleType=1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=25-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
comment=Dear Darren,
Could you please tell me how to set the ignition timing on a 1985
VK V8
(308) Commodore Berlina. I recently replaced the
carburettor, as it had a
perforated diaphragm. Since replacing the carburettor, the car has
not idled
as smoothly as it should. By a process of elimination, I
have come to the
conclusion that the timing is out, this was confirmed by checking
the
timing. I have been unable to find any information on how to
re-set the
timing. Hoping you are able to help.
Kind Regards,
Andrew
Victoria/Australia |
| Answer |
| Andrew
you will need to go here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html |
| Maxima
Intermittent misfire |
username=Bob
Ennis
VehicleType=Maxima
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=65k
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=A.C.T.
Date 27-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Intermittent missfire
comment=Hi Darren, Just a bit of info about myself. Ex-mechanic
(got out in
84, after 20 years, just as the electronics came in) still TRY to
keep up,
but it's a loosing battle!
This one has got me stumped! It's a 99 maxima, serviced by the
book since
new. (by me) It missfires, ie: a totaly dead cylinder, when it
feels like
it. No apparent reason. Sometimes after 20km, sometimes on cold
startup.
Sometimes not for a week. Don't notice a loss of power on the
highway.
Have done the obvious things, like new plugs ($160), cleaned the
throttle
body, new air filter, checked timing, checked for loose hoses and
connections.
When it is missing the exhaust sounds like a burnt valve, and it
feels to
"suck back".
This condition only lasts for 3 to 5 minutes, then it reverts back
to
normal on it's own.
On reflection, it goes back to a "won't idle" situation
a few months ago.
I cleaned the throttle body and gave it a drink of injector
cleaner.(can't
remember the brand) It then ran perfectly for a few weeks.
Have had it into the local dealer, and of course, it wouldn't do
it.(they
think I'm a nut) Before I let them have access to my bank
account(they want to start
replaceing coils, injectors and such)what do you think about the
possibility of a hydrolic lifter problem?
I'm happy to drive it untill something totaly drops the bundle,
but the wife
wants it fixed!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Bob. |
| Answer |
Bob,
About 1 in every 150 questions I enjoy and yours is one of them.
I went to the trouble to ask my ECU repair tech man and we both
feel it is
not an electronic problem
I feel it maybe dirty fuel hanging around the or one of the
injectors
I understand your wife is not happy but you will need to catch it
when it
happens and try to work out what injector is putting stress on the
relationship |
| Ford
tx 5 (turbo) Bearings front |
username=Leon
VehicleType=ford tx 5 (turbo)
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
Date 28-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Bearings front
comment=Hello Mate,This for my daughter her cat is a ford
tx5..turbo year 88
she has a grinding sound when the car is moving i thought it might
be the
gear box but it changes good,ive tried to undo the lock nut, the
kind that
was kinked into the axle shaft like key grove.It wount move what
ever iv
done 32mm socket on long bar still wont budge L/hand side.if i
heat it is
there nylon bushes or other things there .And do you think that
noisre is
the bearing .thanks mate
|
| Answer |
| Can
you record the noise and e-mail it to me in MP3 format |
| Ford
Telstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve Fitting a Timing belt |
username=Neil
Coetzee
VehicleType=FordTelstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve
VehicleAge=8 yrs (1994model)
DistanceTravelled=275000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng
Date 28-06-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Fitting a Timing belt
comment=Hi.
Having just replaced the water pump as the old one was shot,
I removed the timing belt to get to the water pump without moving
the cam
pulleys,
They are atill in their original places, But I cannot refit the
belt, it wion't go back on.
How do I fit the belt ?
Should I position the pulleys etc before refitting the belt?
What is the correct proceedure to fit the timing belt ? |
| Answer |
| You
really need the manual to do it for the first time |
| Datsun
260Z jump starting methodology |
username=Eric
Bettio
VehicleType=Datsun 260Z
VehicleAge=27
DistanceTravelled=120,000 est
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Vic
Date01-07-02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=jump starting methodology
comment=I have just found your website and like it very much. My
question
is a general one regarding your method for jump starting a car.
Why is it that
the final connection of jumper leads is to the chassis of the car
rather
than to the negative terminal of the battery (as it is on the car
with the
good battery)? I have seen and heard many times that the final
connection
is to the chassis but see no reason why.
Thanks,
Eric
|
| Answer |
The
final connection is where the circuit is completed therefore its
where
the spark will also occur
apart from this the reason is to jump start the start motor not
the battery |
| Cont |
Thank
you for your answer, it all makes a bit more sense now, I know the
batter gives off fammable gases (hydrogen and oxygen) and a spark
could be a
problem.
thanks again
eric |
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