THINGS TO LOOK FOR
If you have a suspect blown head gasket and you are driving, stop the engine for 1/2 hour, then very carefully lift the bonnet and using a rag or a set of gloves, gently remove the radiator cap.  Remember the radiator cap has 2 clicks. Turn the cap with your hand.  Do not put your head right over the top of the radiator when you are opening it, move your head right away,  just in case it decides to explode.

COST
It could cost between $550.00-$2,000.00 depending on the make and model.  If you have a suspect head  gasket, have the vehicle towed.

This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Camry overheating
comment=My 1993 Toyota Camry overheated a couple of weeks ago.  I had it
towed to the dealership where the radiator and thermostat were replaced.
Now I cannot drive more than 1/2 mile without its starting to overheat
again.  If I’m driving, the needle stays at about the middle of the gauge.
If I am stopped at a light or have the a/c on, the needle starts rising
quickly, almost reaching the red zone.  (I either turn off the air or the
traffic light has changed and I can drive again before it gets to the red.)
I would appreciate your letting me know what you think is causing the
overheating, given that it’s just been to the dealership and I’m looking at
another tow.  Is it OK to drive to the dealership as long as I turn it off
and let it cool down when it starts to heat up or will that cause damage?
Thank you.
Answer
So for taking so long Liz I’m getting alot of questions these days.
1, Don’t drive the vehicle all as it may create more damage
2, For some reason I’m getting alot of people paying the highest price to
get there vehicle repaired only to find the same thing repeating
You must inform the Toyota dealership what has happened and get them to
arrange a tow at there cost
3, It may only be a thermo fan not reconnected but if you drive it might
cause damage to the headgasket and the Toyota dealership may
use this activity against you.
Toyota what a feeling
Let me know how go get on
Darren
Question Australia-3-2 Headgasket Repeat Problems – Toyota  -  What a feeling
username=Kim
VehicleType=Toyota tarago
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=282,000
Trans=Manual
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head gaskets
comment=Dear Sir, LubeMobile replaced my cylinder head in late 1998. After
13,000ks my head gasket started to leak & they replaced it saying it was
faulty. Now 16,000ks later it’s done the same thing again. The car has
been
serviced regulary and has not had any overheating problems. I have been
using good quality oil for older engines and a good quality coolent. The
engine block and head show no signs of corrosion. The leak occured between
the water jacket and the rear cylinder. They used a mono-torque ACL Gasket
which they have sent back to ACL. This was over a week ago and my engine (
3y ) is still sitting in pieces, despite e-mails to LubeMobile and ACL I
have had no answers from them. Have you any idea’s, and do you get any
other
complaints regarding LubeMobiles service.
Yours Sincerely
Kim
Answer
Kim in all fairness LubeMobile is a company that supply mechanic’s
To answer your question you are the first to inform me of a problem but the
problem is not with LubeMobile
If the headgasket, and or cylinder head has become faulty, this is not the
fault of LubeMobile but the fault of either
and head reco company and or the head gasket maker ACL
I completely understand how you must feel but a mechanic can’t be to blame
for the failure of automotive parts
They must be upset also that this is a repeat problem, let me also add I
cannot even recommend any company because every time I do
I’m getting negative feedback so Kim you are not on your own here its a
problem on the increase
Who have you spoken to about this head gasket problem (Darren)
I have spoken to and e-mailed ‘Mr Paul Sayer from
LubeMobiles Head Office’ as well as ‘Mr Richard Seduikis’ the manager in
Melbourne. I have also contacted ‘Mr Wayne Ryan’ in the ACL Gasket
manufacturing company in QLD.
I have received no reply at all from ACL and my last few e-mails to
Lubemobile have not been replied to. Also when the mechanic took my
engine
apart he took my cylinder head with him when he left, I have asked that they
return the head ‘without having the evidence of where the Gasket problem
occured’ to me. As yet this has not been done, so I don’t even have a
whole engine.

Regards
from an extremely frustrated
Kim T
Kim
Thanks for your prompt reply Darren,
I would like to know who should be responsible for repairing the car,
I only dealt with LubeMobile, they supplied the reco head and the gasket, surely
it’s their responsibility to take the matter up with their suppliers.
Regards
Kim
Answer
This would depend on the warranty you have on the invoice, also it maybe the
case of several parties could be partly to blame
the aim is for you to get your Toyota on the road
Question 3-3 Brake Caliper Size
username=Peter O’Neill
VehicleType=1969 Mustang Fastback
VehicleAge=33
DistanceTravelled=”Many” not a suitable answer
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Brake Caliper size
comment=Hi Darren,
I am doing up a 1969 Mustang Fastback and I want to do a brake upgrade.  It
is fitted with factory discs on the front.  I have sourced a set of
performance calipers (wilwood Dynalite) for it.  I also want to fit DBA
Longlife rotors to it (cross drilled and slotted).  The discs for this
particular car are 24mm wide.  The calipers I have sourced are 31.8mm wide.
Are these two parts compatible, or are the calipers too big or small for
those discs?
I hope you can help me out with my enquiry.
Peter.  Brisbane, Qld, Oz.
Answer -This Answer was directed to DBA
Peter I have made several attempts to make contact with Phillip Joseph at
DBA but until now he has not supplied any information
that I can help you with but I will try again because this is a question for
DBA
DBA E-mailed  there Answer
Dear Peter & Lucas,
Please note, I have not received or been informed of any of your enquiries by either email or via other communication.
I am always willing to help any enquiry.
We manufacture many discs for our customers throughout Australia & overseas ( Baer Racing, AEM, etc ).
Re: 1969 Mustang upgrade:
We do not recommend a specific disc.
You have not mentioned any Diameter… 330mm ???
This diameter is popular 330mm x 32mm ???
Off-set = hat ???
If you could supply a dimensional drawing,
diameter, thickness, off-set, center hole etc
Please take note, we cannot suggest or recommend upgrade, due to legal reasons.
No warranty can apply to our product, except for Government laws re: manufacturing liability.
We gaurantee our discs against any fault in manufacture, not for any use other than standard replacement.
I am happy to discuss further, however I would appreciate if you could telephone me, its quicker and I can answer specific details.
Kind Regards
Phillip Joseph DBA
02 – 9748 0211 Bus.
Question 3-4 Mitsubishi Mirage with poor fuel consumption
username=James P
VehicleType=1996 Mitsubishi Mirage
VehicleAge=5
DistanceTravelled=50000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Excessive Fuel Consumption
comment=Dear Virtual Mechanic,
I have just bought a 1996 Mitsubishi Mirage with Automatic transmission.  I
am having trouble with excessive fuel consumption.  The specifications for
the car are that it should get 5.2L/100km on the highway and 7.6L/100km in
the City.  I have tested it on the highway and I am only getting 7.0L/100km!
Very bad!  The car is in excellent condition, mechanically, however the
Automatic transmission may need a service. What do you think the problem is?
Regards,
James.
Darren
Are you or the driver a lead foot
James
Well, no.  That’s not exactly the answer I was looking for.  Can you please
have a bit more of a think about it and then get back to me.  I want a
serious answer please.  If you don’t have any idea, please say so.
Regards, James.
Darren
James I’m sorry I have no idea or perhaps are getting too many questions to
answer its a free service
but I cannot help all the people all the time
The Obvious question is who is servicing the car and are they changing the
air cleaner
Air may look ok but may still cause an excessive fuel consumption
Drivers like to blame anything but there bad habits
Example I renewed a set of disc pads for a customer, he comes back after 1
month and says they need to be changed again
He is not happy I ask him are you a lead foot answer NO I saw him on the
road driving his car and sure enough
he was showing to be an aggressive brake driver but he wanted to blame me
the bad mechanic for selling a set of disc pads that didn’t last
Sure you might think well it also depends on the rotor thickness, etc etc
So to answer your question the EFI will use according to what the foot
dictates, factors like correct servicing and driver history all have alot to
do with fuel consumption
Finally the only way is to measure the problem on a dyno and scope this way
you can see what the engine is doing and how the engine is coping
James
Dear Darren,
Thankyou very much for your reply.  I am sorry I was a bit rude in my last
email, I am having a bad day at work.  Thanks for your help.  I have just
changed the air cleaner and it was very dirty!  But I have another question;
How does the air filter affect the fuel economy in an EFI engine?  Doesn’t
the fuel enter the manifold in precise metered amounts from the injector,
hence the air should not affect it?  I don’t understand why it would affect
it, and how much it would affect it.
Regards,
James.
Darren
The EFI is not smart enough to realize if the air cleaner is blocked, all
the EFI can do is what it is programmed to do.
Modify the mixture to keep or maintain smooth running
If the air cleaner is offering any resistance and all air must flow via the
air cleaner then the EFI will consume more fuel
remember that your car may also be required to be driven in the high country
where the air is thinner therefore Mr Car maker has factored all possible
scenarios to keep or maintain Max power the trade off is “A dirty air
cleaner adds value to John Howard’s back pocket as we can pay more taxes by
purchasing more fuel”.
James
Dear Darren,
Thanks very much for your reply.  It has helped me to understand how it all
works a little better.  Thanks for your help.
Cheers, James.
Question 3-5 Toyota – Harmonic Balancer Spare Part not available
username=Joseph
VehicleType=Toyota Camry LE 1998
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=70,000 kms
Trans=Automatic
Driveline=FWD
Country=Philippines
State=Pasig Manila

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes

I have a Toyota Camry 98 (70,000 kms) with a 2.2 L    4 cyl engine.
The crankshaft pulley  separated so I brought it to a Toyota dealer and
was there for for a week.  They said that the part (No. 1340874041 ) is not
yet available and doesn’t know when the part is gonna arrive.  I finally
decided to pull out the unit and went to a Toyota parts dealer but got the
same answer.
Can I just have it welded and balanced?  Is this the right thing to do or
would it cause more damage in the long run?
And how do I loosen the screw that holds the crankshaft pulley: clockwise
or counter-clockwise?
I’d really appreciate your reply on this. Thank you.
Joseph
Answer
Joseph,

The crankshaft pulley is also known as the Harmonic balancer, and it has a
purpose and that is to balance the vibration of the internal combustion
engine, from idle to full throttle all engines require a harmonic balancer
As far as Toyota not having the parts in stock, this is something very
annoying perhaps they should offer a parts service agreement.
A company that cannot provide a harmonic balancer, then perhaps this is
something to be remembered when you go shopping for another feeling.
Question 3-6 HONDA – Do I get a low mile engine or not ???
username=Mel
VehicleType=Honda Prelude 2.1
VehicleAge=11 years (1991)
DistanceTravelled=90,000 miles
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=am Cdn in USA
State=NY

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=??worth replacing blown engine
comment=Hello:
I am delighted to find your site and am writing with sore butt from kicking
myself hard for not checking my oil recently.  Rod broke yesterday producing
hole in bottom of engine(Ouch!) I have murdered my car. I can get used
engine imported fr Japan with 40-50k miles for US$2K installed.  Do you
think is worth it? BTW I paid US$3,500 for the car at 80,000miles; it is 5
speed standard and in amazing shape – virtually new.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT, I appreciate that you offer this.
Answer
I have had the experience of using the imported engine’s and they can be a
pain in the trunk, because for some reason some items are different
this is really a question for you
If you intend to keep this beautiful looking vehicle for a long time then
find a good shop to overhaul the engine
If you intend to get rid of the vehicle in the short term then get the
supposed low mile engine
The items to watch out for on a jap motor are slightly different ignitions
systems and timing belts not to mention a different type of alternator
and or sump
Question 3-7 1 of many whom just don’t understand how to fill a simple form out
1992 Toyota Previa Van
130,000 miles, Automatic Transmission
Front Wheele Drive
Yes, we have information on Road Safety
USA, Florida
SUBJECT:  Spark Plug Replacement; 1992 Toyota Previa Van

We have a 1992 Toyota Previa Van, 4 clyinder, with 130,000 miles, that we are attempting to change the Spark Plugs.  I can get the two rear plugs removed, but there is not enough clearance between the firewall and the engine to pull the spark plug wires off the two foward plugs.  How do I replace the two front spark plug wires with such little clearance?

Thank You,

Ray Desvousges
Answer
Fill the form out and wait for our reply how hard is that…………………………..
Question 3-8 Hyundai Lantra Spark plug leads @ 24,000
username=Aviva Goldman
VehicleType=Hyundai Lantra
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=24,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Austrlalia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=spark plug leads
comment=Is it reasonable that the all spark plug leads are wearing out on my
1999 Lantra which has only done 24,000. I had one replaced (not under
warranty) because car was “missing” and Hyundai wanted to replace all 4 at
great expense to me. Car is now driving okay.
Answer
Aviva,

Please forgive me for say the following about Hyundai.
It does not surprise me that the leads required replacement at  only
24,000Kms and I agree this is wrong but you only get what you pay for,
now this is where I also do not understand how such a cheap purchase price
can command a very high service cost and most Hyundai owners
get a shock when its time for servicing to see an expensive invoice
To answer your specific question it is normal practise to renew all leads at
one time to eliminate any possibility for the other leads to fail
However I believe Hyundai should wave the charge given that the vehicle has
only travelled 24,000kms
The big question in my mind is how can the RACV rate a Hyundai car of the
year when they are acting for there members
Someone said to me once money talks all languages.

I hope this helps
Darren

PS RACV are you still acting for YOUR members ????????…………..
Question 3-9 Mitsubushi Express 4WD
username=Den
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Express 4WD

VehicleAge=5
Trans=Manual
Country=AUS
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Is this a good vehicle to drive around Oz?
comment=Greetings virtual mechanic
I’m about to buy a Mitsubishi 4WD next week in which to drive around Oz (I
want a camper van that takes me to remote places, but I don’t want a truck).
Trouble is, I’ve been told it’s not a good idea to get a van (Mitsubishi or
Toyota Hiace) because the parts are hard to find in remote places.
Considering we won’t be in a rush to get from town to town, and we won’t
mind spending an extra, say, $100 on the delivery parts, do you still think
it’s a bad idea?

Yours gratefully
Den
Answer
Good question but next time if you send it more than once I’ll let your
tyres down

You just may find better mechanic’s in the bush like I did, in Catherine NT.
I’d consider the Mitsu because I have one and have taken it everywhere (Only
on sealed roads) in Australia
Mitsubishi made a huge mistake when they made the L300 Van, because its one
of the most reliable vans made
As far as getting parts, I’d be real careful who I’d listen too, as you know
there is an expert on every corner.

The only thing I decided to do is keep on the sealed roads because some
corrugated roads can do alot of damage to the suspension
Question 3-10 unable to fill a simple form out for a free service
Hello, i have recently purchased a 1995 vw golf with 82000 miles on it.  Just the other day, i started the car and the idle raced up to 20 which I thought was fine seeing that it did drop after about 10 seconds.  however the idle appears to be looping from normal to 15-20 back down to normal idle.  this does not happen all the time, but i sense this still may be detrimental to the automobile. ANY SUGGESTIONS
Answer
Fill the form out ……………………………………………..
Question 3-11 Car Manuals
username=dawn woolley
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Sigma Sedan G.J. 1982
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=car manual
comment=Dear Sir/Madam,
I’m looking for a car manual for a friend of the model car as above. Do you
know where I might find an old manual? Dawn
Answer
Go here  http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012720/http://www.ellery.com.au/
Question 3-12 VR Commodore Sticking Throttle
username=Sean
VehicleType=VR Commodore
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=300,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=SA

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=High reving
comment=I have a 1993 VR Commodore V6. My main problem with it at the moment
is the high revs. More often than not the engine revs high – as opposed to
idling normally (500rpm) it will idle at 2000 rpm. It does this when it
feels like it. When driving the car it is always “pushing forward”
especially when sitting at traffic lights, and at lower speeds (60Kmh) When
declerating from higher speeds (80Kmh to 110Kmh) It “pulses” and rocks the
car forwards unless i put my foot on the accelerator. It is like it is
hunting, without actually hunting. If i put the car in nuetral(while driving
or stationary) the “hunting” stops. But the revs go up to 2000rpm.
It seems to me that there is a fuel blockage or something up with the
injectors . I have just recently had the knock sensor replaced due to a
problem with stalling. (Which it has solved) but this particular problem
seems to be getting more frequent. I did a test today with it when it was
“playing up”. I pulled away from the kerb without touching the accelerator.
Within 1 km i was up to 60kmh!!!! After that i had to accelerate to get to
the 80km speed limit….After about an hour of driving (high speed
80-110kmh) it stopped doing it and went back to normal, for another half an
hour of driving. After not driving it for about 2 hrs it was then back to
high reving as soon as i started it. On a cold start it either revs high or
revs normally and it is the same for hot starts. I should mention also that
i have had the transmission replaced 5 times over the last 9 yrs.(I bought
it new) This was due to it slipping and the last time the trans completely
lost the plot. It still slips but it is ok most of the time. Could the high
reving be somehow related to this?
Any help would be much appreciated,
Sean
Answer
Could be a damaged inner cable but it should not be driven as it may cause
an accident in the wet
Question 3-13 Transfer Case
username=Judy
VehicleType=1994 Chevy Blazer
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=103070
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=United States
State=New York

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=transfercase
comment=My Blazer spits out transmission fluid from the overflow tube on hot
days.  My husband and I thought it was comming from the transmission and
found out it was from the transfer case instead.  How do we correct this
problem without taking it to a garage and spending a fortune.  My husband
has done all of our mechanical work on all of our vehicles from the 1965
chevy  Malibu to the 1998 chevy s10,  granted the 1965 is much easier and
less complicated.  Any help from you will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Judy.  oopps I forgot to add it is 4 wheel drive.
Answer
Sorry not sure
Question 3-14 Head Gasket
username=Dan Roth
VehicleType=Ford Probe
VehicleAge=7
DistanceTravelled=95,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Pennsylvania
DateDD=02
DateMM=06
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head Gasket Sealants
comment=I have a 95 Ford Probe with a 2.0L engine.  The water pump failed
and the engine overheated.  Two of the four cylinders get coolant into them
and of course it is difficult to start the engine.  I tried “Blue Devil”
sealant to seal the possible blown head gasket.  It worked for 3 days then
leaked again.  Do you know of any sealant that works well?
Dan Roth, Pennsylvania, USA
Answer
I think get it repaired
Question 3-15 Toyota Vienta V6 (Toyota say no to LPG) can I fit gas ?…….
username=Chris
VehicleType=Toyota Vienta V6
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=60,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=LPG conversion for Toyotas
comment=Hello,
Question: can Toyota engines (particularly Vienta V6) take LPG conversion?

Background: I have a Vienta V6.  The need to increase travel has me
thinking of LPG,  but have come across conflicting
information.
1)  Some say any modern engine that can take unleaded petrol can take LPG.
Others, say LPG needs specially hardened valves
& seats etc, as LPG is even drier & burns hotter than unleaded petrol.
And ‘ordinary’
Toyota engines are thus not LPG compatible.

2)  I called up Toyota – the official stance is “LPG not recommended”.
Yet, I also found out (friend in oil industry) that almost all taxis in
Japan run on LPG.  And most taxis are Toyotas!  Unless, of course, there
is actually a different engine for taxis.  I am unable to find this out,
as I can’t read Jap websites.

Have you come across any problems with valve seat recession?
Any info gratefully received
Thanks
Chris
Answer
Chris,
This is a very good question because my answer will change from year to
year.
I had to ring my friend at RL Walker, Noble Park 9791 2549 where Rod
installs LPG to almost any and every vehicle
he also has alot to do with taxis.
This is the following answer
The Toyota is able to be fitted with LPG but the reason why Toyota may say
no is because you will require engine work in the long term.
Its to do with the valves, even tho they are hydraulic they require shims to
prevent any premature wear.
Using gas may require the vales and seats to be check more closely at
service intervals
If your Mr private and travelling about 25,000 kms per year then it “may”
take several years before major work is required.

The taxis in Japan may only operate for X amount of Kms before they are
change over or repaired.
For some reason Toyota may not be interested in running vehicles on gas this
is there right but at a cost to many.

I want to offer another idea, and that is Mitsubishi Magna is bringing out a
factory fitted LPG vehicle this to me is a much better idea because
they seem to listen to there customer needs and are able to make the effort
to change.

Chris I hope this has helped you I know changing the feeling to a Mitsubishi
Magna is at a cost but your pocket will benefit in the long term.

VehicleType=1991 Honda Prelude
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=146,000 kms
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Canada
State=Nova Scotia

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Power Steering Belt
comment=Hi,

I own a 1991 Honda Prelude.  I have replaced the power steering belt and the
alternator belt.  Both have been “squealing”.  I adjusted the alternator
belt and it is now tighter.  However, the power steering belt is still loose
and very noisy when I start it up.  How do I tighten the belt to
prevent
this high pitched noise.  Thanks.
Answer
The new belts will require re-adjusting after a few days perhaps
its loose now but better soon
Cont
Yes Darren,

I realize that it does require adjustment.  My question still is how do
I adjust the tension on the belt.  I have tried to loosen the adjustment
pulley, but to no avail.  The darn thing still won’t budge.  Any ideas
on how to loosen the nut on the pulley.  I have used all kinds of  WD40
on it. Help!!!!
Darren
Can you send me an image of it and then I may explain where to go
Karen
Hi Darren,
I figured out how to tighten the belt, but the main and only problem I
am having right now is that the bolt on the pulley is seized.  This is a real
problem because I have to back off the main bolt on the center of the pulley
to be able to use the adjustment screws.  How do you loosen a seized bolt?
Some people have said to use heat, but in order to do that I will have to
drop the engine.  There is only about 1 inch of space between the pulley and
the side of the engine compartment.  Hopefully you’ll know some industry
tricks for loosening bolts.  Thanks ever so much for your help.  I think
this is going to be a major concern for most Prelude owners since their cars
are creaping up their in age.
Darren
Spray or to put it in another way flood the bolts with WD40 over several
nights to see if this may create a difference, enough for you to make that
vital adjustment
Karen
Ok, I’ll give that a try and see what happens.  I finally found a belt (away
buying and returning 10 of them) that fits.  Now to get that “stupid” bolt
freed up–this would be a joy.  I’ll let you know what happens.  I really
think once we get it freed up, you should really put that one on your site.
Apparently I’m not the only one with a Prelude that is having the same
problem.

Thanks again.  I’ll let you know how it goes.
VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1 Vibration
username=Eugene

VehicleType=VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=200,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Au
State=WA

sThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Vibration
comment= Hi, I have a vibration problem in the front end that shakes the
steering wheel left to right. I have had this problem come and go since I
first purchased this car. This occours at 90-105km.
I have replaced the front tyres with P6000 Perallis. Which are fitted on
CSA
Alloy Wheels, bought from new. Had all four balanced and a wheel
alignment.
I have always found a problem with the front wheel bearings working loose.
the strut mounts have been replaced.  engine mounts have been replaced.
power steering leeking but tie rod ends seem ok, bushings seem ok.  what
else can I check? I also have a shaking problem in the rear. Seems to have
got worse over time.  I found a leeking shock and have orderd new ones. I
have checked the center tale shaft bearing, seems ok.  Anything else I
should check?
Any info would be much appreciated.  Thank you.
Answer
Eugene,

Even though the shockers may seem ok they may still be causing a problem
I do not recommend Munro as they don’t seem to last the distance
Look for any tyre fractures and or bent rims
Try that
DGB
Ford Escort Cooling System
username=Daniel Felice

VehicleType=ford escort
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=225877
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Sydney
DateDD=02
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=cooling system
comment=Can you please help me i have a 1980 model ford escort and while
driving the temp needle doesn’t move but when im stopped at traffic lights
of in traffic it goes up to boiling then when i keep driving it goes back to cold…..
i’ve changes the thermostat,ratiator and i’ve disconnected the heater
because i was told that it could be blocked, i’ve also been driving the car
with no thermostat it still does the same thing.

please help……

Answer
Danier,
This is a normal problem with your type of vehicle, its because the fan is
not effective at idle
You need to consider getting a thermo fan fitted this way it should cut in
at idle speed
DGB
Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback Clutch & Brakes
username=Filipo

VehicleType=Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback
VehicleAge=12 DistanceTravelled=260k
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=New Zealand

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Clutch and Brakes
comment=Hello there,
Would like some instructions on how to change the clutch on my car. Also
would like to know why the braking is pulsing as well as the car begins to
shake when driving around and over 100k
Also would like to know why water is leaking from the front of the engine
(according to a friend – this is the water pump – has a little hole on it
and is leaking water). Lastly – the car does not appear to run stable – rpms
rise and drop all the time – when driving – its a bit bumpy sort of like not
firing correctly. I have replaced spark plugs, leads, same problem.
If you can give some clues – I would appreciate it very much. Thank
you in advance

Regards
P Filipo
Answer
I don’t have the free time to instruct you on how to fit the clutch As for
the braking system it would be a good idea to check the following Check tie
rods Machine the disc’s rotors also make sure they are not under size The
water leaking could be anything send me an image showing where the water is
leaking DGB
Cont
Thank you Darren
I really appreciate your response. I will get on to sending you an image of
the water leak as soon as I can

Kind regards

P Filipo
Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980  VB Commodore Ignition Barrel
username=Gary Mayes

VehicleType=Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=245,000 Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=VB Commodore Ingintion Barrel
comment=I’m currently attempting to replace the ingnition barrel on a Holden
VB Commodore. (1980, red motor, auto 3.3L)
I have read the section in the VB  maintenance manual throroughly and cannot
get the ignition barrel out from the steering column.
As per manual, I have removed steering wheel, indicator switch and the
hazard relay. The manual then says to stick a small screwdriver or pin into
the indicator switch hole and the barrel will slide out. The only access to
the barrel is one hole, just to the right of the steering lock pin, which
gives access to a cogwheel assembly which rotates as the key is turned in
the ignition.
I have been advised that I need to depress the tab on the main ignition
barrel body, which will release the unit from the steering column, but I
just can’t get access to this tab.
Also the manual says I should have the ingnition in the ‘Off’ position for
removal, but the tab on the barrel will only depress when the key is in the
‘On’ position??

Confused!
Answer
Its a real bugger the first time around, perhaps the pin requires more force
Gary
Cheers for that Darren. I actually found out what the problem was. The slot where you can access the pin was still closed from the initial casting of the alloy. So when you look at it there appears to be no hole at all. However if you poke around with a screwdriver, where the pin “should” lie, the thin alloy easily pushes through, revealing the pin on the barrel. One for the maintenance manual I guess!!
Anyway, thanks for your reply.
1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon  Steps to remove water pump
username=massey
VehicleType=1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon
VehicleAge=13
DistanceTravelled=100,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=New Zealand
State=North Island

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Steps to remove water pump
I have had trouble removing radiator so as to get a better veiw of bolts on water pump.
ive managed to dismantal all bolts that secure radiator,i have also removed
nuts that are secured to the pulley,the propellor i cant figure how to
remove as my attempts have been futile. the radiator is in the way and cant remove.
Answer
Massey,
You need a special large open ender that is 1 1/16 it also will only turn anti clockwise see how you go with that
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch but did not fill out the form …………

Subject: Automotive Question

I was recently involved in a serious accident that was a direct result of
being towed. I am curious to how the brakes of my automatic vehicle (1985
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch – 120,000 ks) would have operated while the
engine was turned off, and the car was being moved whilst in neutral.
There seems to be a large percentage of opinions that believe the brake
performance would have been severely restricted or non operational.

Thank You – Kat
Answer
This is a free service, to get this free service fill the form out……………
AR Ford Teltsar Ghia faulty electronic dash Workshop Manual
username=brad maker

VehicleType=AR Ford Teltsar Ghia
VehicleAge=1985
DistanceTravelled=264000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIAN
State=QLD

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=faulty electronic dash
comment=digital dash on telstar shows the speedo flashing with ignition on
or with engine running,also fuel and temperature digital gauges do not work
at all. When stardard analogue dash is fitted every thing works ok. Do you
have any imformation on the electronic boards fitted inside the digital dash
and possibably what board is faulty . If not can you supply the electronic
wirirg circuits for the boards and the dash it is not available through
Haynes or Gregorys Manuals ,thank you.
Answer
Try here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Holden Calais VT Idler pulleys
username=Clive

VehicleType=Holden Calais VT
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=69,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=03
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Idler pulleys
comment=I’ve been getting this ringing sound from the idler pulley’s when in
drive and reverse gets worse when steering wheel is turned, I’ve replaced
both idler pulley’s and support also the belt it shut’s up for awhile then
the noise comes back changed it again and still there. Could it be something
else getting really frustrated with it
Answer
Clive
We still have a possible fault in the following areas
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Perhaps remove the belt and rotate the pulleys feeling for any rough bearing
noise
Ford Bronco Charging system ?……
username=Dan Miller

VehicleType=Ford Bronco
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=190,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=US
State= Nebraska

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Charging
comment=On my Bronco I have a new alternator , new regulator, and a good
battery (12.5 volts)and i have checked all my wires with a multi-gauge and
it is still not charging. I have a dead battery every couple of weeks. I
think just from starting .also i checked the battery with the multi-gauge
and i only get about 10v after its started it remains the same.  I was told
too that if i remove the negative cable from the battery i could tell if it
was charging cuz the alternator would keep it going but when i do it dies ..
I have done this before and it has kept running , anyways I can use all help
i can get..
Thank You
Dan Miller
Answer
Dan,
The alternator should be charging out at 13.5 – 14.2 it will only do this if
the following are in order
Alternator is charging out 13.5 – 14.2
If the fan belt is firm
Battery is in good condition (get it tested to make sure)
Battery terminals are firm and not corroded
Positive wires are in good condition
Earth lead to the engine is secure

Try that Dan
1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
username=Andrew

VehicleType=1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
comment=Dear Darren,

Could you please tell me how to set the ignition timing on a 1985 VK V8
(308) Commodore Berlina.  I recently replaced the carburettor, as it had a
perforated diaphragm. Since replacing the carburettor, the car has not idled
as smoothly as it should.  By a process of elimination, I have come to the
conclusion that the timing is out, this was confirmed by checking the
timing. I have been unable to find any information on how to re-set the
timing. Hoping you are able to help.

Kind Regards,
Andrew
Victoria/Australia
Answer
Andrew you will need to go here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Maxima Intermittent misfire
username=Bob Ennis

VehicleType=Maxima
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=65k
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=A.C.T.

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Intermittent missfire
comment=Hi Darren, Just a bit of info about myself. Ex-mechanic (got out in
84, after 20 years, just as the electronics came in) still TRY to keep up,
but it’s a loosing battle!
This one has got me stumped! It’s a 99 maxima, serviced by the book since
new. (by me) It missfires, ie: a totaly dead cylinder, when it feels like
it. No apparent reason. Sometimes after 20km, sometimes on cold startup.
Sometimes not for a week. Don’t notice a loss of power on the highway.
Have done the obvious things, like new plugs ($160), cleaned the throttle
body, new air filter, checked timing, checked for loose hoses and
connections.
When it is missing the exhaust sounds like a burnt valve, and it feels to
“suck back”.
This condition only lasts for 3 to 5 minutes, then it reverts back to
normal on it’s own.
On reflection, it goes back to a “won’t idle” situation a few months ago.
I cleaned the throttle body and gave it a drink of injector cleaner.(can’t
remember the brand) It then ran perfectly for a few weeks.
Have had it into the local dealer, and of course, it wouldn’t do it.(they
think I’m a nut) Before I let them have access to my bank account(they want to start
replaceing coils, injectors and such)what do you think about the
possibility of a hydrolic lifter problem?
I’m happy to drive it untill something totaly drops the bundle, but the wife
wants it fixed!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Bob.
Answer
Bob,
About 1 in every 150 questions I enjoy and yours is one of them.
I went to the trouble to ask my ECU repair tech man and we both feel it is
not an electronic problem
I feel it maybe dirty fuel hanging around the or one of the injectors
I understand your wife is not happy but you will need to catch it when it
happens and try to work out what injector is putting stress on the
relationship
Ford tx 5   (turbo)  Bearings front
username=Leon

VehicleType=ford tx 5   (turbo)
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Bearings front
comment=Hello Mate,This for my daughter her cat is a ford tx5..turbo year 88
she has a grinding sound when the car is moving i thought it might be the
gear box but it changes good,ive tried to undo the lock nut, the kind that
was kinked into the axle shaft like key grove.It wount move what ever iv
done 32mm socket on long bar still wont budge L/hand side.if i heat it is
there nylon bushes or other things there .And do you think that noisre is
the bearing .thanks mate
Answer
Can you record the noise and e-mail it to me in MP3 format
Ford Telstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve Fitting a Timing belt
username=Neil Coetzee

VehicleType=FordTelstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve
VehicleAge=8 yrs (1994model)
DistanceTravelled=275000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Fitting a Timing belt
comment=Hi.
Having just replaced the water pump as the old one was shot,
I removed the timing belt to get to the water pump without moving the cam
pulleys,
They are atill in their original places, But I cannot refit the belt, it wion’t go back on.
How do I fit the belt ?
Should I position the pulleys etc before refitting the belt?
What is the correct proceedure to fit the timing belt ?
Answer
You really need the manual to do it for the first time
Datsun 260Z  jump starting methodology
username=Eric Bettio

VehicleType=Datsun 260Z
VehicleAge=27
DistanceTravelled=120,000 est
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=jump starting methodology
comment=I have just found your website and like it very much. My question
is a general one regarding your method for jump starting a car. Why is it that
the final connection of jumper leads is to the chassis of the car rather
than to the negative terminal of the battery (as it is on the car with the
good battery)? I have seen and heard many times that the final connection
is to the chassis but see no reason why.
Thanks,
Eric
Answer
The final connection is where the circuit is completed therefore its where
the spark will also occur
apart from this the reason is to jump start the start motor not the battery
Cont
Thank you for your answer, it all makes a bit more sense now, I know the
batter gives off fammable gases (hydrogen and oxygen) and a spark could be a
problem.
thanks again
eric

I have a Mitsubishi Magna TS (1990).
I find that I can drive the car for, say, an hour with the voltmeter on the
dashboard dead centre (vertical). If, either parked or driving, I raise the rpm
momentarily to over 3000, then the needle moves (slowly) to 3/4 scale, and will stay
there for the rest of the trip.

Alternatively, before starting a trip, if  I idle the engine momentarily at 3000 rpm,
the needle will move (slowly) to 3/4 scale, and stay there.

In other words, at some stage in a trip, the rpm needs to exceed 3000 before the
needle will move to the 3/4 scale postion. Normally, this would occur when
accelerating  from a traffic light.

Is this normal, or abnormal, behaviour for my car?
Incidentally, the battery is a new one installed by the RACV last week.
Cheers,

Don Watson Australia-Victoria

Answer
Don,

Thank for dropping by,
The charging system should be from 13.8-14.2 volts now this what you may
want to do.

With the engine at idle
Switch the headlights on high beam if you observe the volt meter declining
down towards 12 or less
You have a problem
The problem maybe in the Voltage reg, Alternator or the lead going from the
alternator to the battery
Now on the other hand if you notice the volts inclining over 14.2 volts this
is also bad because you may cook the battery.

So it might be an idea to test the charge rate via another multi meter just
to make sure the dash meter is reading a true value

Don I hope this will help you remember the charging system can under charge
or over charge like my bank

Let me know how you get on

Question 2-2 Suspect transmission
Hi Darren,

I have a Golf CL, 1800CC, 1997 Automatic.
I am having a problem with my car. Sometimes it strugles to change gear from
1st to 2nd gear. I have recently got it serviced and even changed the filter and gear oil.
Could you please help?
Thanks in advance

Bini Redda UK
Answer
Bini,

This sounds like you need a transmission specialist, but its a good idea to
get three quotes as the VW is expensive on parts
did the performance improve after the service and what did the service agent
say about this problem.

Darren
Question 2-2
Daren,
thanks ever so much for your prompt reply.
When I spoke to the service agent, the only thing he did was change the gear
oil and filter. Then I took it to my mechanic for service.
It did improve a bit but not as good as I once have known my car. The reason
why I took my car to this guy is my mechanic said he doesn’t know a lot
about automatic gear.
Thanks again in advance

Answer
Bini,

I love VW’s but I think VW have become very expensive when it comes to repairs
These days one may consider taking there vehicle to specialist’s
Auto= Auto trans specialists etc
I have a 1964 Karman Ghia, one day I will be putting it on the road, until
then try a specialist Bini and best of luck

Darren
Question 2-3 A timing belt or timing chain ???
Dear Darren

I have a mitsubishi magna 1992 model. Has it got a timing belt to be replaced. It has done 130,000 kms. I am told this model has no timing belt.

Regards
Allen
Melbourne
Answer
Allen,

They are fitted with a timing chain so this means it will not require any
replacement
Perhaps let me in on what you were told and who told you that it required
replacement or are we just playing????????

DGB
Question 2-4 Flat battery
Darren,
I just bought a 1991 Mitsubishi Lancer today and washed it.
Since i washed it, it won’t start up. The battery light hasn’t
gone on at all. All it does, is make a repeated fast clicking
noise. Help!! Also, would you happen to know where the choke is?
I can’t seem to find it and don’t even know if there is one at
all.
Thanks,
Petra (Australia)

Answer
Ok Petra, disregard the automatic choke.
I think I know what your problem is, it sounds like the battery is the
cause.  This is common as the noise produced is a machine gun sound.  Do the
following,
1. Go down the bottle shop ask for a bottle of Jack Daniels.  Send this to
me in the morning!
2. We need to make sure the battery terminals are secure.  To do this, try
to wriggle the negative (black) terminal, and the positive (red) terminal on
the battery.  If they are loose, you need a 10mm spanner to retention the
clamps.
3. Either jump start, with a good set of leads (most leads aren’t really
suitable as they are not heavy enough), to supply an adequate supply of
current.
4.  The other and the best option, is to replace the battery, provided that
it’s at least 18-24 months old, but remember, that you may have already lost
your radio security code, so don’t stress, if you don’t have it, Mitsubishi
will be kind enough to slug you for typing out your password.

In summary, Petra, please consider replacing the battery, rather than jump
starting as jump starting may damage the onboard computer.

Now the reason why the battery decided to fail, is because it had a heart
attack.  Because your particular vehicle being a very good engine design, it
does not require much energy from the battery when cranking to start the
engine.  Therefore, anything like leaving the ignition on for only five
minutes, or the radio, will cause the final stroke!  We will be starting up
battery funeral plans in the future, but the local council is charging too
much for the lead content being deposited into our local grounds.  Petra,
thanks for coming by virtualmechanic.  I hope I have been of some help.
Please keep in touch, tell your friends about me.  Remember, you can always
look at my videos at your local library.
Best wishes with your new car.  Keep up the good work with her maintenance.
Remember, there’s a whole lot of really helpful advice on maintaining her on
my website.  Cheers!

Darren.
Thankyou Darren
Thank you very much for your advice. You turned out to be right
and I have actually gotten the battery replaced today and it
works beautiful now. Again, thanks for your help.
Petra.

Question 2-4 Boot leaking Sorry trunk leaking
Hi Darren,

My name’s Nandi and I live in Salem, OR in the US and drive a 1995
Mitsubishi Mirage.Found out recently that the trunk is leaking
somewhere, I always find about 2 cups worth of water in there after a
rain. The rubber seal around the trunk seems to be in great shape. Any
other ideas about where I should check for leaks?

Thanks!

Nandi Salem United States
Answer
Nandi,

Try the following.
Either adjust the boot down to close closer or adjust the seal up to prevent
water from entering

Darren
Question 2-5 Horn going off
Dear Darren,
I have a 1992 Hyundai Excel, the horn is going off for no apparent reason. I need to find the fuse but do not know where it is located, I found the fuses for everything else but not the horn. If I can stop the horn from working in the meantime, I can then take it to someone who can fix it.
Your advise would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bronwen  Australia
Answer
The Horn fuse is under the bonnet, if you cannot find it then disconnect the horn
DGB
Question 2-5
Thank you for that Darren, whereabouts under the bonnet is the fuse located. As you can probably tell I am not very mechanically minded.
Regards,
Bronwen
Answer
Bronwen,
Its a bit tricky, its on the passenger side front but as I recall it may not indicate its the indicator fuse, so with the ignition on carefully remove one fuse at a time until the horn will no longer operate.
DGB
Question 2-6
G’day Darren,

I have noticed that my front wheels make a clicking noise only sometimes
when turning corners, would you have any clue how much it would cost for
my particular car? Another problem I have is the input shaft or thrust
bearing  is noisy when the car is in idle but only intermittent, any clue how much  that is to?

My car is a 1984 AR Ford Telstar TX5 Ghia Hatchback, 2.0 4 cylinder motor,
5  speed manual. Any other information about this particular car would be most helpful.
Thankyou,
Regards
Bobby Cerny Victoria Australia
Answer
Bobby,
Ha lets start by say your site is great.
The CV Joints can cost anything from $160.00 to $350.00 it depends on
whether they are new or reco
If you near Mordialloc I can do it for you but more importantly you can
watch
The input bearing is wearing the clutch if its making a noise so perhaps
wait until it gets worse and renew the clutch
at between 350-450 depends on reco or new as well as getting the flywheel
machined (highly recommended)
Does this help you.
Darren
Question 2-6 Temp guage or other
Hi there
My name is Erin I have a problem with my 1989 nissan pulsar gx 1.8
i just got it back from the mechanic, i had the engine reconditioned
and i noticed  that the temp gauge  gets pretty high really quickly.
could they have put anti-freeze in the engine or could it be just from the hot weather.
any answer would be great
erin Melbourne Australia
Answer
Erin,
This doesn’t sound good.
It maybe a slow acting thermostat, or the thermostat it self maybe faulty
Anti freeze has nothing to do with the Temp needle quickly moving high
Erin is the temp going higher than before??
Darren
Question 2-6 Manifold Gasket
Hi,

I just finished rebuilding the top end of my 98 Jeep Wranglers 4.0L.
Everything went fine with the rebuild, other than the fact that the
manifold gasket ( it shares a common gasket for the intake and exhaust) didn’t seal
completely. There is a minor leak on one of the exhaust ports. I have
pulled it apart and had the manifolds checked by my machinist, and it all checks
out fine, they are not uneven. I re-installed with a new gasket (direct from Mopar, not after market) I
am still experiencing a sealing problem, My question is it OK to use any type
of sealant? If so what type?
PS….yes I did use a torque wrench and the proper torque sequence.

Thank you,

Steve US
Answer
Steve,
I’ve been there and this is why people start drinking, its because manifold
gaskets don’t seal.
Now this is a possible solution, when you tension the manifolds make sure
the inlet bolted to the exhaust is loose enough to move this way both
manifolds are on the same plain
Sometimes it might be required to plain both inlet and exhaust if the
manifolds have been separated.
See how you go

DGB
Question 2-7 Timing belt
What is the average mileage I should expect from this timing belt?  The service recommends 60,000.  However, the 1998 model recommends 90,000.
Don’t want to spend money I don’t need to.  Please advise. Donna Australia
Answer
Donna,

The answer is any between 60,000 to 90,000 but I have known timing belts to snap at 105,000, now the question is when will the belt snap.
The choice is yours, and yes the timing belt is costly as it takes a bit of time to remove and replace.
But can I say that you are doing the right thing by following the booklet because if the belt would snap it may not only cause the engine to stop but may damaged the engine.

DGB

PS Would it really hurt if you let me know what state you lived ?????
Question 2-8 Rough Riding
Hello Darren,
I’ve read several of the questions and answers trying to get an answer
to my problem. I get bits and pieces here and there, so here is my problem. I
own a 1996 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 valve. Presently my accelerator pedal is
sticking. I barely touch it and it sticks, then I press it a little harder
and it’s fine…gets past that sticky point. Is it the pedal itself or
another problem.
Also the car has a vibration in it when I press the accelerator. It’s
like it doesn’t catch up with my acceleration fast enough. When I come off
the accelerator, the vibration stops. What can this be? Sometimes the entire
front end shakes so bad when I accelerate, i think something’s going to fall
from underneath. I had a tuneup done about a year ago…replacing plugs and
wires. My car hasn’t run smoothly since.        I got a batch of gas last
summer which contained water. They had to drain my gas tank. Could this be
part of the problem? At the dealership where they drained my gas tank, they
told me that my #5 valve had a lope in it. Could the water in the gas have
made this problme worse? Its was “loping” before I got the water in the tank,
but not as bad, and this vibration thing started shortly after that? Please
give me a direction as to where to start. The car starts fine, but the RPM is
on 2 while sitting idle in park; running very fast. This happened after they
drained my gas tank. I would appreciate any information you could give to
help me diagnois my problem. Thank you.

Rough Riding in Shonna TX
Answer
Sticking throttle maybe the cause of the inner cable strains coming apart,
you may see this at or around the ends of the cable
This vibration maybe something to do with the following
Slipping clutch
Bent tailshaft
Wheels out of balance
Shockers require renewal

Darren
Thankyou Darren

Thank you for replying to my e-mail. It is very helpful for when I
have to take the car to the mechanic, I can give him an idea as to where
to start. That way they won’t have to keep my car ALL day, or numerous days!
(smile) Sorry for not giving you my name….its Shonna and I live in
Texas.
Again thanks for the VERY helpful information. I think your question and
answer page is the greatest, and to continue encouraging you, you’re doing
a GREAT job! Thanks again for your input, and keep the bolts turning….lol!
Thanks,
Shonna
Question 2-9 Leaking oil but no sign
I have recently bought a 1985 Mitsubishi L300 4×4 with 113000km and in excellent nic. I did an oil and filter change just before taking it on a 2 week tour, and had no problems at all. When I got back home the oil light came on. I checked the oil level and the dipstick was bone dry! There is no sign of major oil leaks that I can see, and I’m certain that it is not blowing smoke even slightly. A friend suggested I’m losing the oil only when its under pressure and may have blown the head gasket. Can you please advise. Thanks.

Thanks Brian NSW Australia
Answer
Brian,

Most people think there is a person who goes around in the night to steal
oil out of the engine, because the average person looks on the driveway and
maybe just a little bit of oil is under the engine its not a big leak it
should be ok.

Fact,
Any vehicle travelled over 100,000kms is an engine waiting to leak oil, you
maybe thinking that’s wrong, well that’s life.
I thinks its disgusting that engines leak at and around 100,000Km but it
comes down to the car makers, they have allot to answer for. Some people
decide to replace the rear main seal only to find that its the crankshaft
that’s moving thus causing the oil to leak, now I’m sure there will be experts
who will read this answer and not agree.

Brian I want to add that if you see oil at or around the rear main seal
(This is where the engine is joined to the transmission)
then the first option is try to renew the rear main seal but I have only
found success if the seal was hard, thus loosing its ability to hold back
oil.

If the seal is in good order and the shaft is grooved then a stainless steal
sleeve maybe fitted, but if the crank is not round then maybe elongated
making it impossible for any seal to be effective.

Now without seeing your vehicle, I can only assume its the rear main seal,
so what you need to do is leave the engine running
in the driveway but only for 10 to 20 minutes and get down there to observe
where the oil is leaking

I own a Mitsu Van 91 model and I think Mitsu made a very good vehicle, I
also have an oil leak but because I’m so busy
I haven’t explored my options

I hope you find help in this answer

Darren

Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage

Hello Darren,,

I have a 93 Nissan Pickup with 3 V type fan belts.
I do most of my fan belt replacements and adjustments myself,,however,,
I am frustrated at guessing as to how much flex that a given belt is as
to the manufacturers specs.
I am inquiring as to whether there is a V belt tensioning  guage that
will show me at a glance when I have the proper tension as to the
specifications in my service manual.
I have tried using a ruller,,but it is so hard to see the exact
measurement,,,especially laying on my back in restricted working conditions.
I don’t have any problem with adjusting more or less tension,,,as on my
vehicle,,,adjustment screws are provided on the Altenator,,Power Steering and
Air Compressor.  But only need an easy to use guage that will show the
measured flex or proper tension.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am particularly looking for a tool/guage that is ease to use and
doesn’t cost a whole lot to purchase.
Please help me if you can..

Sincerely

Joe US
Answer
Joe,

The short answer is firm, not too loose and not to tight
The fan belt tension is more by feel than by measure
Perhaps go to a car lot and check and feel different tensions of belts to
get the feel

Only a loose belt will start to squeal and shout out for help

Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage (Part 2)
Hey Darren,,

The fan belt tension is more by feel than by measure<<

Thank you for replying to me Darren,,,and I think that your answer is
true,,However,,My Sevice manual describes the procedure of correct
tightness in the amount of flex(In inches),,, between designate pulley’s at
aproximately 20 lbs of pressure.
What I am trying to do is get the tightness to the exact specs.
without guessing as  to how much the belts are too tight or too loose.
I have been told that if the belts are too tight that they will put
too much pressure on the bearings of the different
components,,,Altenator,,water pump,,,AC pump,,,is that true??
Do you know of a tool that will give me the exact measurement,,,other
than a straight edge or ruller???

Thanks
Joe
Answer
Joe

There is a tool its now available for viewing at the Virtual Mechanic
International Automotive Museum (VMIAM)
its in Melbourne Victoria but it only opens once every 100 years and it only
has a licence to open for only one day.
I just so happened that it was yesterday it was open.

Apart from that I remember twenty years ago using one as a hammer at trade
school at Richmond Tafe, we had to stay back that day until the teacher
found out who did it.
I stayed at school for days until I got hungry, they give us only KFC but
with no salt it was horrible.

I don;t know of any person that would use such a tool as I think we have all
lost the art of being spot on.

DGB
Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage (Part 3)
Hey Darren,,,:-)

Oh damn,,,I missed the viewing by just 24 hours.  Typical,,I always miss
out on the important events…:-),,,,However,,,:-)
I called a large parts store and they are supposed to have one for about
12 dollars,,believe it or not,,,,and I even remembered that I may have one in
my toolbox as well.   I just clean forgot all about it…:-)
Thanks for the help Darren,,,
Gone to get some KFC with hot peppers…:-)
Joe
Answer
Joe don’t tell the person at the store as it is a very rear tool
If my old teacher at Richmond finds out he will want one and I have it on
Good authority he has friends
on pay day.

DGB
Question 2-11 Thermo Fan staying on
USA.  January, my 1998 Dodge caravan’s radiator fan will not stop
after the engine has been turned off! What could the trouble be?

Doug from Maryland
Answer
Hi Doug

The problem maybe in the relay for some reason it could be sticking
The question is does the fan eventually switch off if so this is normal
If not you might consider getting your local auto electrician to test the
relay
The reason why I ask your name and where you live is it makes other people
aware
how far The Virtual Mechanic (Australian) is reaching
I don’t charge for this service but if people want there question considered
Then I ask if they can be human and friendly about it

Darren
Question 2-12
Darren,

Simple job it would seem. To change the rear disc pads on a 1987 Honda
Prelude 2.0i. Both sides were very worn. Everything going well. Calipers
off old pads out new pads ready. Now I need to push the caliper pistons back
into to create room for the thickness of the new pads. They wont budge.
Hand brake is off, automatic transmission in neutral, I have even taken the
tops off the hydraulic fluid reservoirs. Not a fraction will they move. I
have tried C clamps, levering with screwdriver. Even tried to take some
pressure out of the system with the bleed nipples.
What have I forgotten? It is an ABS model also 4 wheel steering. Have
the calipers seized (unlikely I think). Ideas please.

Thanks in advance,

Fraser Barrons,
Auckland NZ
Answer
Fraser,  before I begin to tell you what to do here, VM does not accept
any liability for or in respect of information and advice provided on this
site
or incorporated into it by reference or any other site linked to this
site.
The VM does not accept any liability for loss or damage incurred as a
result of reliance placed upon the content of this site. Use of information and
data contained on this site is at the reader’s sole risk.
The rear callipers are different to the front, because they are connected
to a handbrake mechanism you need to screw or rewind the piston back into the
calliper.  This can be tricky.  You may see some pins inside the piston
which require a special tool to rewind the pistons back into the calliper.
However, you could also use some multigrips, but I don’t recommend this as
it may damage the piston itself.  Whilst rotating or rewinding the piston,
you need to also apply slight force to make sure the ratchet is turning
within the mechanism inside the calliper.  Now this is where the problems
start.  You may feel as excited as Big Kev when you retract the piston
inside the calliper, but you then need to make sure that the hand brake
mechanism is fully operational.  Fraser, I think this will give you a very
good start into your renewal of rear pads.  Good luck!!
Darren.
Thankyou Darren
Darren,

Thanks a lot I’ll get on it tomorrow am. That is the best response/service I
have ever had on the web. Thanks.

Fraser
Question 2-12 Transmission problems
Hi Darren,

Great site! I was lucky to stumble upon it while doing a search
for a problem with my car.

A while back (about a year or two ago), our 1989 camry developed
a problem where it would sometimes shudder (feels as if the driver would
press the pedal and let go, and repeat this process a few times) when
accelerating from idle.

We have a trusted mechanic that looks after our car, so we took
it to him and he did a check up of it. He drained some oil from the
gearbox and it was all black, and there were apparently some parts
inside that may have melted. He changed the gearbox and told us to
contact him if the problem persisted.

It was almost immediately apparent that the problem was not
solved. The mechanic’s tests didn’t reveal a thing, and the issue didn’t
crop up when he did a test drive of our car. One way or another, the
issue of the overdrive switch cropped up, as he told us we should switch
it off when driving in city roads, and that because we had been driving
with it on all this time that it might have not “been very good for the
car.” He had assumed we had been driving the car with the overdrive
disengaged on normal roads all this time, and suggested that we turn it
off when driving in the suburbs/city, while turning it on when we drive
on the freeways (past 80kph) and when we switch the car off.

Needless to say, this did solve the shudder problem. But I’ve
always wondered why this was so. My understanding of the overdrive
switch was to control whether the car should engage into 4th gear or
stay in third when it the car speed was hanging around the change point
(around 58kph?). I couldn’t see what this had to do with the stop-start
issue. Do you know what’s happening?

Alan Wong
Sydney, Australia NSW
December 1989 Camry.
Answer
Dear Alan,

Thank you for dropping by our website as we are getting inundated with
queries at the moment we can only give priority to fellow Aussies!  Your
question was good, in that when we respond, it answers a lot of other
similar questions.

I need to start by fragmenting your question, because you presented several
issues that need elaboration.  The first issue that concerns me, is the
black transmission fluid.  Your mechanic was right in indicating that there
was a problem.  Black fluid is the result of contaminated transmission
fluid.  This can be caused by several factors, overheating, lack of
servicing or direct mechanical failure.  The remedy, of course, is a
transmission repair or change-over.  Having had experienced work at a Toyota
dealership as part of my 20 years experience, I have found that the only way
to rectify this problem was to make sure that the fluid lines were
completely flushed out with new fluid.  Also, if the original torque
converter was used it also needed to be flushed out.  Contaminated
transmission fluid is a common cause for shifting shudder.

I am assuming that this was the procedure followed by your mechanic.  So
this brings me to my next step.  The fact that the same thing is happening
with a constant or intermittent occurrence, makes me feel that we still have
a problem in something like a micro switch or a valve in the valve body.
Without getting too technical,  I go along with the fact that overdrive is
best switched off after/or around 80kph on some models.  But I don’t believe
that it is a manufacturing fault.  Alan, you haven’t indicated how many kms
the vehicle has travelled, therefore, it is difficult to answer further.
But, having said that, I ask that you may consider the possibility of a
potential tyre fracture on any one of your four tyres?  I hear what you are
saying Alan, you are describing a shudder, and yes, there still may be a
shudder in the transmission.  If there is, it may be an ongoing problem if
the transmission has contaminated fluid.  If it’s a shudder caused by a
fractured tyre, then having your tyres rebalanced would be a good start,
thus creating a process of elimination.

I hope this has been of some assistance to you.

DGB

Question 2-13 Harmonic balancer & Air conditioning
Hi Darren,
I have a 1988 EA Ford Falcon with the 3.9lt CFI
engine.  I was told by my mechanic that I need to
replace the harmonic balancer, even though there are
no unusual vibrations etc…  The only reason I could
think of why this needs to be replaced is it may have
been damaged in a recent front-end accident I had.  He
reckons it’s about to fall off and only the belts are
holding it on.  Does this sound like bullshit?  How
much should I expect to pay to have it replaced?  Or
is it an easy enough job to do myself (I’m pretty
handy with tools).

Two of my welsh plugs on the exhaust side are leaking.
What are they exactly?  Am I right in assuming that
it’s coolant leaking from them?

In the recent accident I had my air-con condenser was
damaged and as a result the system wouldn’t hold
pressure.  The mechanic said that if he replaced the
condenser then he’d also have to replace the ‘reciever
drier’ or something as it would get air/moisture into
it when disconnecting the condenser.  I was quoted
$500-$600.  Is this guy having me on or what?  I’ve
never heard of a ‘reciever drier’ before.  Could you
please tell me if this guy is giving me the
run-around?

Thanks heaps,
Doug Adams
VIC, Australia.
Answer
Doug,

Great questions.
We will start with the harmonic balancer, this being the main pulley at the
front of the engine also being the pulley that drives all fan belts, the
harmonic balancer is also designed to balance the crank shaft at all speeds.

It seems your mechanic is looking out for you because he/she can see the
possible danger of it falling off, and yes they can loose it in there life
and just give up.

So its true, they can spin off and create alot of damage to anything in its
path.
As far as you changing the harmonic balancer sure, but it can be tricky as
you may also need to replace the seal.
I’d get your mechanic to do it.

The welsh plugs leaking are a pain to replace, so if they are leaking its
best to get them done ASAP, it would be my preference to do all at once,
that’s if you intend to keep your car for a few years

The air conditioning is made up of many parts, we will take about two, the
condensor and the receiver dyer
The condensor is the component that transfers liquid into vapour, it looks
like a thin radiator, and is in front of the radiator, always the first to
kill bugs, and the first to receive damage in an accident.

The receiver dryer is a very important round black canister that is designed
to filter the system, it is of my opinion that any time parts like the
condensor are replaced, then also the filter.Think of it like this if you
decide to tune the engine on your EFI then it would make sense to change the
filter atleast every 40,000Kms.

Doug these parts are costly, but the most important aspect here is your
mechanic is looking out for you, and that is good to know, not all workshops
are doing the right thing these days.

The price that he quoted was fair, above all Doug I hope this helps you.

Darren
Question 2-14 Hyundai – Heater problems
I have a 1992 hyundai excel i noticed that when i start the car and turn the heater on and leave it running for awhile 20 min, it doesn’t heat up much, the water temp gauge reads  low and only rises soon after i take off,and the gauge never rises much over a 1/4way could this be that i need a new hearter. thank you

Dee Australia

Answer
Dee,

Start with getting the cooling system flushed out including the heater core this might save you alot of cash and keep the little engines warm.

Darren
Question 2-15
VehicleType=dodge caravan
VehicleAge=1994
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=
State=MO

Subject=hood release
comment=Can’t open hood.  Inside latch is broken.HOW do you do that now?
Answer
What did I say about a one line question !!!!!!
Question 2-16
NEVILLE NEWMAN
VehicleType=EA FALCON 1990 S.PACK
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=80.000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=CAR IDLING
HAS STARTED TO RUN RUFF.WHEN IDLING IN DRIVE
Answer
What did I say about a one line question !!!!!!
Question 2-17
username=Polsky Valery
VehicleType=peugeot 306
VehicleAge=5
DistanceTravelled=205000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Israel
State=central region

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=idle step motor test
comment=Please explain how to test idle step motor and
if it possible, in two words, how it’s working (to fix tester).
Answer
Sorry it would take me too long to answer
Question 2-18
username=Cindy Rader

VehicleType=Hyundai Tiburon
VehicleAge=5 (1997)
DistanceTravelled=70,000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Alaska

Is There Road Safety Education In Your Town=Yes
Subject=Won’t start
comment=A couple of weeks ago my 1997 Hyundai Tiburon started running pretty bad and wouldn’t start all the time, so thinking it just needed a tune-up I took it in to have a tune up.  $126 later they had changed the oil and filters, but I found the next day it was still doing the same thing and refusing to start.  I took it to a different place, and one week later (after waiting for parts), and after costing almost $500, they told me it was the fuel pump and ordered and replaced that part.  That was two days ago, and I went out to start the car today and it refuses to start again.  The station where I took it said to bring it back again, but I’m worried that I have already spent over $600 and it still is not working.  I haven’t been able to get it started yet today even after waiting for the past couple of hours.  IT obviously wasn’t the fuel pump, but what do you think it could be?
Answer
It could be anything but it would be my advice search for an autoelectrician
A friend had a similar problem and it turn out to be a faulty ignition
switch causing the ignition to disconnect
But I do not suggest to start replacing this item until its proven to be theproblem
Switching auto shops to find and answer is sometimes a costly exercise
Finding a good auto electrician is cost effective
DGB
Question 2-19
Hi Darren,
I got Toyota Camry Feb/1997, Auto, 2.2L, Widebody,
A/C, manual window. How much foot pound shoul I torque
the spark plug when I change them? Is there any trick
for change the spark plug on Feb/1997 Camry? Where do
I find step by step for changing the spark plug?

Thanks  Tom
Answer
Fill the  form out to get your question answered
Question 2-20
username=mark
VehicleType=84 toyota terdcell 4wd
VehicleAge=18
DistanceTravelled=???????
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=oz
State=nsw
Subject=carby    & wiring system
comment=i got this 84 tercell 4wd of me mate.told me the motor was
blown.(he’s a builder)anyway,i found the AM1 60amp fuse(fusible link)in the
f/box under the bonnet was melted.ive rewired it into the spare next to
it.now have ign.lights.tried turning motor by hand(ratchet)& would only go
3/4 turn & lock up,both ways.now i used the key.1st try was the same
thing,3/4 turn & lock up.so i turned it back & give it another kick & this
time it kept winding over,but it wont fire.have checked points & plugs,spark
on all.(while i had the plugs out i scraped the tops of the pistons & 2&3
had this white creamy stuff,like savlon.i can see the fuel mist from the
jets & when you open the carby(butterfly thingy)there’s a pool of fuel in
the bottom.where the fuel line connects to the carby through that hollow
bolt,is that where the needle & seat should be?it’s empty now.the carby’s
pretty dirty down the throat.the cars been parked for about 12 months.before
that it had electrical problems,i think it burnt out 2 dizzy’s(new one
now).also,the harness coming from the f/box is in 2,1 goes to bat.& alt,the
other goes round the bat.& across behind the h/light,here a heavy white,red
wire & normal green,blue pink,dark blue wires branch’s off.but on mine
the’ve been cut about 3″s along.i can’t find any wires to match them or
conections missing wires.in all,the motors turning freely(no unusual
noises),there’s spark,electricals seem fine,new bat.,fuels cumming into the
carby(misting),but its not firing.is the fuel in the bottom flooding it,or
can u suggest what else it could be? i could use a nudge in the right
direction.thanks.mark.

Answer
You sent your question 7 times once is enough
Question 2-21
username=Bill Anderson
VehicleType=toyota camry efi
VehicleAge=
DistanceTravelled=200000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland

Subject=Fuel problem
comment=Hi Darren, My question is about my wifes toyota camry 1987 model
E.F.I.. It started missing badly at low revs and gradually got worse. I
replaced all spark plugs and fuel filter. No change. I then replaced fuel
pump. No change. Could it be the injectors and if so how big a job is it to
pull them apart and clean them. I am a fitter and turner by trade so I don`t
mind getting my hands dirty. Thanks
Answer
Yes it maybe a suspect fuel injector but what about an air leak
Spray some CRC around the inlet manifold just to make sure its not leaking
vacuum
As for the injectors they may need to be ultrasonic cleaned but measured
before and after
Question 2-22
username=May
VehicleType=VW Golf GL 1995 make (purchased early 1996)
VehicleAge=approx 6 yrs
DistanceTravelled=39,000 kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW
Subject=Coolant Problems
comment=Hi there Darren,
I have had my car sent in for a major service (at a VW centre) which
included a flush out for the coolant approx. 2.5 months ago (circa February
2002).  A few days ago, the coolant light came on indicating it was
overheating.  However, the car has just been started not long ago and the
heat gauge is still in the cool section (far left of the gauge rising
slowly).  The car was driven for the next 15 mins where the gauge finally
settled in the centre like it normally does.  Since then the light has not
switched on.  Concerned I decided to check it out.

Upon opening the coolant resevoir, I found the once blue-green coolant is
now a milky orange.  I consulted VW service who were less than helpful and
they said it was ‘normal’.  I am still concerned with it though since I have
heard read that it isn’t a good sign to have the liquid milky.  Should I
take the car back for another clean?

Also, I have been unable to make a visual inspection whether the coolant
needs topping up.  I used to be able to see the coolant between the “Min &
Max” when the engine is cooled.  However, the casing is now opaque.

Am I able to mix coolants? (blue with green? which are available on the
market).  Some swear never to mix them and to return to VW for coolant.
Others say, as long as the additive is similar as that stated in the manual
it’s fine; be it blue or green in colour.

I would appreciate some help as I have been unable to get any assistance and
have been worrying about this.  Thank you very much for your time and I will
be looking forward to your reply.

Answer
May your question is one very valid to ask

Coolant is under no circumstances to be mix with any other coolant family or brand
Neither should the coolant ever require topping up
The fact that you see coolant with a milky appearance is to me setting off
the alarms bells
IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR THE COOLANT TO SHOW ANY SIGNS OF A MILKY SUBSTANCE
YOU NEED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER ASAP

May try to do this as soon as you can, please use the same e-mail and let me
know how you get on
Also let me know the dealer
Question 2-23
username=Wayne Constable
VehicleType=Mitsubishi TN Magna Wagon
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=310,000Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW
Subject=Lack of power when accelerating
comment=Hi Darren,
I have a 1988 TN Magna automatic carbi wagon which has a lack of power when
under load or accelerating. So far I have run a carbi kit through the carbi,
completely cleaned the carbi, checked the secondary stage by placing a
rubber tube on it and gently applying a vacume (seems to work), replaced the
catalytic converter (incase it was blocked), had the auomatic transnission
checked. I’m completely stumped.
Hope you can suggest what next?
regards
Wayne.
Answer
Yes but are the secondary stage operating because the same thing happen to me
Conclusion
Hi Darren,
Thank you for your email, you were right it was the secondary stage (lack of
vacume). I replaceed the vacume hose, it had a minute crack. My car now goes
like a rocket.
Regards
Wayne Constable
Question 2-24
Hi, My car is a 1996 BMW 328I
I browsed thru your answer and was convinced that you are a good mechanic.
I have a problem with my car, my A/C is not blowing cold air anymore,
the relays and fuses are good and when you switch the A/C on it will
change the amount of air blow from the vents and can hear sound that it
is engaging the ac. I tried to re-charge the refrigerant but it seems
like it’s not accepting any.
I also have aproblem with noise, like a high pitch noise from the back
of the car, I can’t pinpoint the exact location but I am suspecting the
in tank fuel pump. if so, please advice on how to replace or fix a fuel
pump.
Thanks,
Jojo
Answer
Fill the form out like everybody else
Question 2-25
username=Justin Joubert
VehicleType=Ford Escort 1.8 GLi
VehicleAge=7
DistanceTravelled=108000 km
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng
Subject=Intermitant lack of power.
comment=Hi Darren,

Firstly great site. I just fixed my Dad’s Hyundai back brakes using advice
from your site. Thanks for that. The problem I have with my Escort is the
following. From about 90 000 km, the car started losing power intermittantly
once every other month. The problem would be experienced for a couple of
seconds, where the car would lose power (half power), as if fuel was being
restricted or the plugs were fowled. Anyway the problem has been experienced
more and more often, to the point, where the car permanently runs at half
power now. At start up the car runs smoothly for say 2 seconds before the
missing occurs, and while driving to get full power, if I need it, I turn my
ignition off and then on to get full power for 2 seconds before the car
reverts to half power. I initially checked out the fuel lines and filter for
blockages. No luck. Next I sent the car to a ford dealer. They said my spark
leads had high resistance, I replaced these, No luck. Next they said my
plugs were’nt the specified motocraft platinum tipped type (was using NGK
replacements) I replaced them, No luck. The next diagnosis was that the fuel
pump was seizing, I replaced this, no luck. Finally I replaced the DIS coil
and the problem was still there.

Finally by borrowing an oscilloscope from work, I probed all the actuator
wires and found that for some reason cylinders 2 and 3′s fuel injection
actuator trigger signals were’nt there, ie no fuel getting to cyl. 2 and 3.
The pulses are there at start up, but dissapear at the mystical 2 second
mark. Next I traced these signals to the EEC-IV computer, this is where they
are generated.

Here’s the funny thing. If I remove either spark lead 2 or lead 3 from the
DIS (no spark getting to these cylinders) the fuel injector pulses
reappeared. This does’nt make any sense to me.

I thought it might be that I have a slow or faulty HEGO (lambda) sensor, so
that when the car runs in a closed loop, the computer thinks the mixture is
way to rich (for some reason), and shuts off injector actuators 2 and 3, but
surely 1 and 4 would also be shut off?

The only other idea I have is that there are spikes on the primary side of
the DIS which are feeding back into the computer through the DIS 2 and 3
trigger wire, and nocking out the computer. Could this be a reason?

I would like to know, if you think it’s a sensor problem somewhere on the
car, ie an input into the computer is not there, so the injectors turn off,
or is it feedback into the computer which bombs out the signal, or is the
computer simply faulty? Computers for this car in South Africa are damn
expensive, so I need to be sure.

Cars have always been a hobby of mine, but at the moment I’m not enjoying
this hobby. its just too frustrating.

Thanks for your time and help in advance.

Justin Joubert.

Answer
Very Tricky question,  didn’t say whether the car engine check lamp was
coming on and I would try and retrieve some codes if there are any. Check
the resistance of the injectors,make sure all the grounds are in good
condition then replace the ECU..
Question 2-26
username=Michael Royle
VehicleType=Nissan (Datsun) Pulsar N10.
VehicleAge=21
DistanceTravelled=70,000 (?)
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
Subject=Lubrication
comment=Dear Sir,

I have an old Nissan Pulsar N10,getting rare now.My Mechanic was unsure of
the engine/trans combination,not having worked on one.I have yet to track
down a workshop manual.The trans grinds a bit,much like old Holden 3
speeds
do.I am not overly concerned at this but would like to protect it as best
I can for it’s remaining service life.It is an ’81 model with an old OHV
engine.I believe they are based on the old Japanese model Datsun Cherry.

My questions are:-1.Should I change the oil in the diff/drive shaft housing?
A later manual (for an ,87 model) says not to unless some kind of damage has
occurred.
2. Is the gearbox integral with the engine oil sump (such as in the old
mini)? I heard somewhere this may be the case, or is it just part of the
same diff/drive shaft housing?What type of engine oil would
you recommend in either case?
Thanks.
Answer
1, it would not hurt to change the diff oil
2, the gearbox does not use the oil in the engine
3, if you need a manual try this site http://web.archive.org/web/20031003011126/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html

Where ever you purchase oil they will advise or should advise what to use
Question 2-27
username=stephen
VehicleType=holden VT commodore
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=160000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=South Australia
Subject=service warning
comment=Please help,
I have just upgraded fron a 1985 VK commodore to a newer 1998 VT commodore.
The car is due for a 160000 km service and the electronic odometer flashes
up with a service warning each time i start the car. I do all my services at
home and would like to stop/reset the service warning indicator
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Stephen Bass
Answer
You will need to take the vehicle to the dealer to get it reset
Modern tech this is what to expect
Question 2-28
username=Susan Carter
VehicleType=Holden Astra
VehicleAge=12
DistanceTravelled=284,000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland
Subject=Oil Light and Hot Engine
comment=Hi Darren,
Please HELP!
My Holden ASTRA (1989) has been a brilliant car, but I have a problem that I
need solved.   Has been running reaaly well until today when the Oil light
came on.  I had only put oil in 2 days ago, so checked it anyway.  It seemed
fine so, off i wnet again.  The oil light isnt staying on all the time, just
going on and off.  When i got to my destination, the engine was red hot.
Have had 3 different theories on this and have no idea how i can fix it as
quickly as possible..  I noticed when going up hills, the car didnt seem to
have as much “guts” as normal and I had to change to a lower gear.   I’m
concerned about what damage this will cause the engine if i drive anywhere.
Hope you can help.

REGARDS,
SUSAN
Answer
Susan this problem is best to be sorted out by your local garage as it seems
like the sooner the better I even suggest getting it towed

A flat battery

THE EFFECT

Non start.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR

Try to determine why the battery was flat.  Were the lights left on?  The glove box light staying on?  The boot light staying on?  The parker lights left on?  Has the engine been cranking slow of late?  Has the battery light been coming on? 

COST

Depending on the problem.  It could be a simple problem of the lights being left on or it could be a problem with the battery not holding the charge.  The battery might need to be tested.

TOOLS REQUIRED

You might require a multimeter here.  But also you might need to check the terminals.

CHECK

If the vehicle is on low but the light hasn’t come on yet (don’t rely upon those lights as sometimes they don’t come on), check the angle of the car. A vehicle on a flat level should be okay, provided the pick up pipe in the tank is correctly fitted. If the pick up pipe is slightly higher in your vehicle, then being low on petrol may cause the engine to start and then cut out or operate erratically. It is not good to run low on petrol in any vehicle as it can cause damage to the fuel pump, the fuel filter and also the injectors and/or the carburettor depending on whether it’s a carburettor or EFI vehicle.
 
 
 More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom

If jump starting is not done correctly, expensive damage can be done to a vehicle’s electrical system, particularly to those fitted with electronic ignitions. Check the vehicle operating manual, if there are no specific instructions, then follow these steps.

When jump started, flat batteries generate high volumes of hydrogen gas which is extremely explosive, so sparks and naked flames must be avoided at all times. Do not lean over batteries during the operation. As a precaution, wear safety goggles and a face shield to protect eyes.

First, check to ensure both batteries are the same voltage (6 or 12 volt) and that the two vehicles are not touching each other. If the failed battery is open circuit do not attempt to jump start.

* Open circuit batteries can be detected by:

battery volts reading zero immediately after a high rate discharge test is applied.
when the battery will not accept charge current.
Carefully follow these steps in order:

Warning: Jump starting can damage vehicle electronics. Check the vehicle operating manual. If there is no specific instructions then follow these steps. If the failed battery is open circuit* do not attempt to jump start.

Step 2

Be sure the batteries of both cars are the same voltage (6 volt or 12 volt).
Drive the donor car close to the disabled car but ensure that the vehicles are not touching.
Place both cars in neutral or park and apply hand brake.
Make sure both vehicle ignitions are switched to OFF and all electrical equipment is OFF.
Step 3

Connect the vehicles in the following EXACT sequence and make sure the jumper leads are clear of any moving parts.

Take the RED jumper lead and connect to POSITIVE terminal (marked + or POS) of the discharged battery.
Connect the other end of the RED jumper lead to the positive terminal of the charged battery.
Take the BLACK jumper lead and connect one end to the NEGATIVE terminal (marked – or NEG) of the charged battery.
· Make the final connection to the engine block or chassis of the stalled vehicle (negative earth vehicles only). Never use Air Conditioner, Brakes or Fuel Lines for engine earth.

Step 4

Start the engine of the stalled vehicle.

Step 5

After starting, allow engine of the stalled vehicle to fast idle for a minimum of 10 minutes before disconnecting the jumper leads (see step 6) to allow the cars electrical systems to balance. This reduces the possibility of damage to vehicle electronics.

Step 6

Remove the BLACK cable first from the vehicle with the discharged battery then the opposite end from the charged battery. Repeat for the RED cable.

Step 7

After your car has been jump started, the battery should be recharged with a battery charger.