Archive for the ‘Engine System’ Category.

General Inspection – Thermo fan switching on

THE EFFECT
The cooling system will maintain normal operating temperature under all driveable conditions. 

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
It’s always a good idea to look at the thermostatic fan to understand how it operates.  Because thermostatic fans are thermostatically controlled, they should switch on and off.  A good thermostatic fan in a very good cooling system will switch on for between 20-40 seconds.  If the fan switches on for longer than 60 seconds this might be a cooling system that is unable to cool down with the thermostatic fan. If the fan stays on for 5 seconds then this is an excellent cooling system as it never requires a lot of effort from the thermo fan.

 
This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Overheating

THE EFFECT
Eventually the effect will be destructive towards the head gasket going and also the head warping.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
First thing to do is to turn the vehicle off for 1/2 hr and then carefully open the bonnet and moving away from the cap, use a set of gloves or rag, remove the radiator cap, then start the vehicle and check the water.  You can only pour water in after you have started the vehicle up.  Check for leaks.  Check that the thermo fan is switching on and off periodically over 1/2 hr time parameter.  If you find an excessive water leak, depending on what it is, if it can be repaired by the roadside, good.  If not, then a tow is required.

COST
Depending on what it is.  If it’s a hard to get at hose, it could cost $60.00-$90.00.  If it’s a thermostatic fan or a viscose fan, or a water pump, the price will vary.

 

This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Thermostat stuck or sticking

THE EFFECT
This type of problem will give the same effect as a blown head gasket.  It will cause the cooling system to appear unstable.  It may also cause the upper radiator hose to tear apart as the thermostat decides to open with a great force of hot water.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
If you decide to put another radiator hose on what you  need to do is feel the upper and lower radiator hoses at normal operating temperature, very carefully, just in case the radiator explodes, and they should be almost the same temperature.  If one is cold and one is hot, this indicates a sticking thermostat.

COST
To replace the thermostat it will cost $30.00-$90.00 depending on the make and model of the vehicle and also depending on how old the vehicle is.  The thermostat housing bolts may break as you try to remove them.

 

This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Blown head gasket

THE EFFECT
The needle will climb too high, basically the whole cooling system will not stabilize and also you may find water in the oil and oil in the water. 

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
If you have a suspect blown head gasket and you are driving, stop the engine for 1/2 hour, then very carefully lift the bonnet and using a rag or a set of gloves, gently remove the radiator cap.  Remember the radiator cap has 2 clicks. Turn the cap with your hand.  Do not put your head right over the top of the radiator when you are opening it, move your head right away,  just in case it decides to explode.

COST
It could cost between $550.00-$2,000.00 depending on the make and model.  If you have a suspect head  gasket, have the vehicle towed.

 

This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Slipping clutch assembly

THE EFFECT
While driving you may notice that the engine is revving but the car is not moving any faster.  You may also notice that when you have four people in the vehicle that the vehicle seems to have no power but plenty of revs.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
The best way to check any slipping clutch is to put it into fourth gear, bring the revs up, let the clutch out, and the car should stall.  If the car does not stall, then it’s the clutch slipping, but you must also check for clearance.  If the clutch cable does not have clearance then a simple adjustment might be all that is necessary.

COST
If it’s only an adjustment, about $10.00-$30.00.  If it’s the clutch assembly then it could cost $250.00-550.00 depending on the make and model.

 

This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Exhaust muffler leaking

THE EFFECT
The exhaust fumes may be coming into the car and if this continues the hole might get larger and therefore the muffler could collapse and start dragging along the road.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
Try to locate where the noise is and the best thing to do is to get it repaired ASAP.

COST
Depending on where the leak is.  If it’s only a small hole that’s corroded, you might be to get it cut out or replaced.  This could cost between $50.00-$150.00 depending on how much of the system needs to be replaced.

 
This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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General Inspection – Flange gasket leaking

THE EFFECT
It will be noisy around the engine.
THINGS TO LOOK FOR
You have to be very careful here so that you do not touch any of the hot exhaust componentry.  If you can carefully put your fingers around the flange gasket area and feel any air coming out, then that determines that’s what it was.

COST
About $65.00-$90.00 depending on the exhaust fitter.

 
This article is found in the Virtual mechanic CD Rom
You can download it for the price of a latte, but you will learn not to buy a lemon
By Darren Gow-Brown, Melbourne Australia ©2009

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GENERAL INSPECTION – Rear main seal

ENGINE
Rear main seal

PURPOSE
The rear main seal is at the rear of the crankshaft, sealing the oil inside the engine and preventing it from leaking outside the rear of the crankshaft.  The rear main seal is designed to last at least 100,000Kms.  Unfortunately, with a longitudinal motor, rear main seals may only last 60,000-80,000Kms.

THINGS TO LOOK FOR
When checking for oil leaks it’s always good to check underneath the vehicle around the rear of the engine.  But make sure it is around the rear main seal and not around the top of the head.  Sometimes a leaking rocket cover gasket may be the cause, if after replacing the rear main seal, there is still oil leaking.  The best way to check any seal is to give the engine a complete steam clean but be very careful not to spray the steam around any ignition component or carburettor as this will affect the ignition system and also may cause a non start.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?
The rear main seal itself costs around $15.00 but the labour is around $350.00 as it can be a full day’s job with some vehicles because either the engine or the transmission has to come out to replace the seal.  Some rear main seals may cost $1000.00 depending on the type of seal fitted.  It may be a sealed unit or a wick seal.  A wick seal is the worst seal because it is very difficult to fit and to ensure that there is no leaking.

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Spark Plugs – Splash Fouled

Appears as “spotted” deposits on the firing tip of the insulator and often occurs after a long delayed tune-up. By-products of combustion may loosen suddenly when normal combustion temperatures are restored. During hard acceleration these materials shed from the piston crown or valve heads, and are thrown against the hot insulator surface.

 

 splash4

More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom
Information supplied by Champion Sparkplugs ©2009

Spark Plugs – Pre-Ignition

Usually one or a combination of several engine operating conditions are the prime causes of pre-ignition. It may originate from glowing combustion chamber deposits, hot spots in the combustion chamber due to poor control of engine heat, cross-firing (electrical induction between spark plug wires), or the plug heat range is too high for the engine or its operating conditions.

 

 preign8

More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom
Information supplied by Champion Sparkplugs ©2009