Archive for the ‘FAQ’ Category.

FAQ 4,

Question Australia-3-1 Overheating and trouble with Toyota dealership
username=Elizabeth H
VehicleType=Toyota Camry
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=approx. 60000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Texas

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Camry overheating
comment=My 1993 Toyota Camry overheated a couple of weeks ago.  I had it
towed to the dealership where the radiator and thermostat were replaced.
Now I cannot drive more than 1/2 mile without its starting to overheat
again.  If I’m driving, the needle stays at about the middle of the gauge.
If I am stopped at a light or have the a/c on, the needle starts rising
quickly, almost reaching the red zone.  (I either turn off the air or the
traffic light has changed and I can drive again before it gets to the red.)
I would appreciate your letting me know what you think is causing the
overheating, given that it’s just been to the dealership and I’m looking at
another tow.  Is it OK to drive to the dealership as long as I turn it off
and let it cool down when it starts to heat up or will that cause damage?
Thank you.
Answer
So for taking so long Liz I’m getting alot of questions these days.
1, Don’t drive the vehicle all as it may create more damage
2, For some reason I’m getting alot of people paying the highest price to
get there vehicle repaired only to find the same thing repeating
You must inform the Toyota dealership what has happened and get them to
arrange a tow at there cost
3, It may only be a thermo fan not reconnected but if you drive it might
cause damage to the headgasket and the Toyota dealership may
use this activity against you.
Toyota what a feeling
Let me know how go get on
Darren
Question Australia-3-2 Headgasket Repeat Problems – Toyota  -  What a feeling
username=Kim
VehicleType=Toyota tarago
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=282,000
Trans=Manual
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head gaskets
comment=Dear Sir, LubeMobile replaced my cylinder head in late 1998. After
13,000ks my head gasket started to leak & they replaced it saying it was
faulty. Now 16,000ks later it’s done the same thing again. The car has
been
serviced regulary and has not had any overheating problems. I have been
using good quality oil for older engines and a good quality coolent. The
engine block and head show no signs of corrosion. The leak occured between
the water jacket and the rear cylinder. They used a mono-torque ACL Gasket
which they have sent back to ACL. This was over a week ago and my engine (
3y ) is still sitting in pieces, despite e-mails to LubeMobile and ACL I
have had no answers from them. Have you any idea’s, and do you get any
other
complaints regarding LubeMobiles service.
Yours Sincerely
Kim
Answer
Kim in all fairness LubeMobile is a company that supply mechanic’s
To answer your question you are the first to inform me of a problem but the
problem is not with LubeMobile
If the headgasket, and or cylinder head has become faulty, this is not the
fault of LubeMobile but the fault of either
and head reco company and or the head gasket maker ACL
I completely understand how you must feel but a mechanic can’t be to blame
for the failure of automotive parts
They must be upset also that this is a repeat problem, let me also add I
cannot even recommend any company because every time I do
I’m getting negative feedback so Kim you are not on your own here its a
problem on the increase
Who have you spoken to about this head gasket problem (Darren)
I have spoken to and e-mailed ‘Mr Paul Sayer from
LubeMobiles Head Office’ as well as ‘Mr Richard Seduikis’ the manager in
Melbourne. I have also contacted ‘Mr Wayne Ryan’ in the ACL Gasket
manufacturing company in QLD.
I have received no reply at all from ACL and my last few e-mails to
Lubemobile have not been replied to. Also when the mechanic took my
engine
apart he took my cylinder head with him when he left, I have asked that they
return the head ‘without having the evidence of where the Gasket problem
occured’ to me. As yet this has not been done, so I don’t even have a
whole engine.

Regards
from an extremely frustrated
Kim T
Kim
Thanks for your prompt reply Darren,
I would like to know who should be responsible for repairing the car,
I only dealt with LubeMobile, they supplied the reco head and the gasket, surely
it’s their responsibility to take the matter up with their suppliers.
Regards
Kim
Answer
This would depend on the warranty you have on the invoice, also it maybe the
case of several parties could be partly to blame
the aim is for you to get your Toyota on the road
Question 3-3 Brake Caliper Size
username=Peter O’Neill
VehicleType=1969 Mustang Fastback
VehicleAge=33
DistanceTravelled=”Many” not a suitable answer
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Brake Caliper size
comment=Hi Darren,
I am doing up a 1969 Mustang Fastback and I want to do a brake upgrade.  It
is fitted with factory discs on the front.  I have sourced a set of
performance calipers (wilwood Dynalite) for it.  I also want to fit DBA
Longlife rotors to it (cross drilled and slotted).  The discs for this
particular car are 24mm wide.  The calipers I have sourced are 31.8mm wide.
Are these two parts compatible, or are the calipers too big or small for
those discs?
I hope you can help me out with my enquiry.
Peter.  Brisbane, Qld, Oz.
Answer -This Answer was directed to DBA
Peter I have made several attempts to make contact with Phillip Joseph at
DBA but until now he has not supplied any information
that I can help you with but I will try again because this is a question for
DBA
DBA E-mailed  there Answer
Dear Peter & Lucas,
Please note, I have not received or been informed of any of your enquiries by either email or via other communication.
I am always willing to help any enquiry.
We manufacture many discs for our customers throughout Australia & overseas ( Baer Racing, AEM, etc ).
Re: 1969 Mustang upgrade:
We do not recommend a specific disc.
You have not mentioned any Diameter… 330mm ???
This diameter is popular 330mm x 32mm ???
Off-set = hat ???
If you could supply a dimensional drawing,
diameter, thickness, off-set, center hole etc
Please take note, we cannot suggest or recommend upgrade, due to legal reasons.
No warranty can apply to our product, except for Government laws re: manufacturing liability.
We gaurantee our discs against any fault in manufacture, not for any use other than standard replacement.
I am happy to discuss further, however I would appreciate if you could telephone me, its quicker and I can answer specific details.
Kind Regards
Phillip Joseph DBA
02 – 9748 0211 Bus.
Question 3-4 Mitsubishi Mirage with poor fuel consumption
username=James P
VehicleType=1996 Mitsubishi Mirage
VehicleAge=5
DistanceTravelled=50000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Excessive Fuel Consumption
comment=Dear Virtual Mechanic,
I have just bought a 1996 Mitsubishi Mirage with Automatic transmission.  I
am having trouble with excessive fuel consumption.  The specifications for
the car are that it should get 5.2L/100km on the highway and 7.6L/100km in
the City.  I have tested it on the highway and I am only getting 7.0L/100km!
Very bad!  The car is in excellent condition, mechanically, however the
Automatic transmission may need a service. What do you think the problem is?
Regards,
James.
Darren
Are you or the driver a lead foot
James
Well, no.  That’s not exactly the answer I was looking for.  Can you please
have a bit more of a think about it and then get back to me.  I want a
serious answer please.  If you don’t have any idea, please say so.
Regards, James.
Darren
James I’m sorry I have no idea or perhaps are getting too many questions to
answer its a free service
but I cannot help all the people all the time
The Obvious question is who is servicing the car and are they changing the
air cleaner
Air may look ok but may still cause an excessive fuel consumption
Drivers like to blame anything but there bad habits
Example I renewed a set of disc pads for a customer, he comes back after 1
month and says they need to be changed again
He is not happy I ask him are you a lead foot answer NO I saw him on the
road driving his car and sure enough
he was showing to be an aggressive brake driver but he wanted to blame me
the bad mechanic for selling a set of disc pads that didn’t last
Sure you might think well it also depends on the rotor thickness, etc etc
So to answer your question the EFI will use according to what the foot
dictates, factors like correct servicing and driver history all have alot to
do with fuel consumption
Finally the only way is to measure the problem on a dyno and scope this way
you can see what the engine is doing and how the engine is coping
James
Dear Darren,
Thankyou very much for your reply.  I am sorry I was a bit rude in my last
email, I am having a bad day at work.  Thanks for your help.  I have just
changed the air cleaner and it was very dirty!  But I have another question;
How does the air filter affect the fuel economy in an EFI engine?  Doesn’t
the fuel enter the manifold in precise metered amounts from the injector,
hence the air should not affect it?  I don’t understand why it would affect
it, and how much it would affect it.
Regards,
James.
Darren
The EFI is not smart enough to realize if the air cleaner is blocked, all
the EFI can do is what it is programmed to do.
Modify the mixture to keep or maintain smooth running
If the air cleaner is offering any resistance and all air must flow via the
air cleaner then the EFI will consume more fuel
remember that your car may also be required to be driven in the high country
where the air is thinner therefore Mr Car maker has factored all possible
scenarios to keep or maintain Max power the trade off is “A dirty air
cleaner adds value to John Howard’s back pocket as we can pay more taxes by
purchasing more fuel”.
James
Dear Darren,
Thanks very much for your reply.  It has helped me to understand how it all
works a little better.  Thanks for your help.
Cheers, James.
Question 3-5 Toyota – Harmonic Balancer Spare Part not available
username=Joseph
VehicleType=Toyota Camry LE 1998
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=70,000 kms
Trans=Automatic
Driveline=FWD
Country=Philippines
State=Pasig Manila

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes

I have a Toyota Camry 98 (70,000 kms) with a 2.2 L    4 cyl engine.
The crankshaft pulley  separated so I brought it to a Toyota dealer and
was there for for a week.  They said that the part (No. 1340874041 ) is not
yet available and doesn’t know when the part is gonna arrive.  I finally
decided to pull out the unit and went to a Toyota parts dealer but got the
same answer.
Can I just have it welded and balanced?  Is this the right thing to do or
would it cause more damage in the long run?
And how do I loosen the screw that holds the crankshaft pulley: clockwise
or counter-clockwise?
I’d really appreciate your reply on this. Thank you.
Joseph
Answer
Joseph,

The crankshaft pulley is also known as the Harmonic balancer, and it has a
purpose and that is to balance the vibration of the internal combustion
engine, from idle to full throttle all engines require a harmonic balancer
As far as Toyota not having the parts in stock, this is something very
annoying perhaps they should offer a parts service agreement.
A company that cannot provide a harmonic balancer, then perhaps this is
something to be remembered when you go shopping for another feeling.
Question 3-6 HONDA – Do I get a low mile engine or not ???
username=Mel
VehicleType=Honda Prelude 2.1
VehicleAge=11 years (1991)
DistanceTravelled=90,000 miles
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=am Cdn in USA
State=NY

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=??worth replacing blown engine
comment=Hello:
I am delighted to find your site and am writing with sore butt from kicking
myself hard for not checking my oil recently.  Rod broke yesterday producing
hole in bottom of engine(Ouch!) I have murdered my car. I can get used
engine imported fr Japan with 40-50k miles for US$2K installed.  Do you
think is worth it? BTW I paid US$3,500 for the car at 80,000miles; it is 5
speed standard and in amazing shape – virtually new.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT, I appreciate that you offer this.
Answer
I have had the experience of using the imported engine’s and they can be a
pain in the trunk, because for some reason some items are different
this is really a question for you
If you intend to keep this beautiful looking vehicle for a long time then
find a good shop to overhaul the engine
If you intend to get rid of the vehicle in the short term then get the
supposed low mile engine
The items to watch out for on a jap motor are slightly different ignitions
systems and timing belts not to mention a different type of alternator
and or sump
Question 3-7 1 of many whom just don’t understand how to fill a simple form out
1992 Toyota Previa Van
130,000 miles, Automatic Transmission
Front Wheele Drive
Yes, we have information on Road Safety
USA, Florida
SUBJECT:  Spark Plug Replacement; 1992 Toyota Previa Van

We have a 1992 Toyota Previa Van, 4 clyinder, with 130,000 miles, that we are attempting to change the Spark Plugs.  I can get the two rear plugs removed, but there is not enough clearance between the firewall and the engine to pull the spark plug wires off the two foward plugs.  How do I replace the two front spark plug wires with such little clearance?

Thank You,

Ray Desvousges
Answer
Fill the form out and wait for our reply how hard is that…………………………..
Question 3-8 Hyundai Lantra Spark plug leads @ 24,000
username=Aviva Goldman
VehicleType=Hyundai Lantra
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=24,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Austrlalia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=spark plug leads
comment=Is it reasonable that the all spark plug leads are wearing out on my
1999 Lantra which has only done 24,000. I had one replaced (not under
warranty) because car was “missing” and Hyundai wanted to replace all 4 at
great expense to me. Car is now driving okay.
Answer
Aviva,

Please forgive me for say the following about Hyundai.
It does not surprise me that the leads required replacement at  only
24,000Kms and I agree this is wrong but you only get what you pay for,
now this is where I also do not understand how such a cheap purchase price
can command a very high service cost and most Hyundai owners
get a shock when its time for servicing to see an expensive invoice
To answer your specific question it is normal practise to renew all leads at
one time to eliminate any possibility for the other leads to fail
However I believe Hyundai should wave the charge given that the vehicle has
only travelled 24,000kms
The big question in my mind is how can the RACV rate a Hyundai car of the
year when they are acting for there members
Someone said to me once money talks all languages.

I hope this helps
Darren

PS RACV are you still acting for YOUR members ????????…………..
Question 3-9 Mitsubushi Express 4WD
username=Den
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Express 4WD

VehicleAge=5
Trans=Manual
Country=AUS
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Is this a good vehicle to drive around Oz?
comment=Greetings virtual mechanic
I’m about to buy a Mitsubishi 4WD next week in which to drive around Oz (I
want a camper van that takes me to remote places, but I don’t want a truck).
Trouble is, I’ve been told it’s not a good idea to get a van (Mitsubishi or
Toyota Hiace) because the parts are hard to find in remote places.
Considering we won’t be in a rush to get from town to town, and we won’t
mind spending an extra, say, $100 on the delivery parts, do you still think
it’s a bad idea?

Yours gratefully
Den
Answer
Good question but next time if you send it more than once I’ll let your
tyres down

You just may find better mechanic’s in the bush like I did, in Catherine NT.
I’d consider the Mitsu because I have one and have taken it everywhere (Only
on sealed roads) in Australia
Mitsubishi made a huge mistake when they made the L300 Van, because its one
of the most reliable vans made
As far as getting parts, I’d be real careful who I’d listen too, as you know
there is an expert on every corner.

The only thing I decided to do is keep on the sealed roads because some
corrugated roads can do alot of damage to the suspension
Question 3-10 unable to fill a simple form out for a free service
Hello, i have recently purchased a 1995 vw golf with 82000 miles on it.  Just the other day, i started the car and the idle raced up to 20 which I thought was fine seeing that it did drop after about 10 seconds.  however the idle appears to be looping from normal to 15-20 back down to normal idle.  this does not happen all the time, but i sense this still may be detrimental to the automobile. ANY SUGGESTIONS
Answer
Fill the form out ……………………………………………..
Question 3-11 Car Manuals
username=dawn woolley
VehicleType=Mitsubishi Sigma Sedan G.J. 1982
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=car manual
comment=Dear Sir/Madam,
I’m looking for a car manual for a friend of the model car as above. Do you
know where I might find an old manual? Dawn
Answer
Go here  http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012720/http://www.ellery.com.au/
Question 3-12 VR Commodore Sticking Throttle
username=Sean
VehicleType=VR Commodore
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=300,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=SA

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=High reving
comment=I have a 1993 VR Commodore V6. My main problem with it at the moment
is the high revs. More often than not the engine revs high – as opposed to
idling normally (500rpm) it will idle at 2000 rpm. It does this when it
feels like it. When driving the car it is always “pushing forward”
especially when sitting at traffic lights, and at lower speeds (60Kmh) When
declerating from higher speeds (80Kmh to 110Kmh) It “pulses” and rocks the
car forwards unless i put my foot on the accelerator. It is like it is
hunting, without actually hunting. If i put the car in nuetral(while driving
or stationary) the “hunting” stops. But the revs go up to 2000rpm.
It seems to me that there is a fuel blockage or something up with the
injectors . I have just recently had the knock sensor replaced due to a
problem with stalling. (Which it has solved) but this particular problem
seems to be getting more frequent. I did a test today with it when it was
“playing up”. I pulled away from the kerb without touching the accelerator.
Within 1 km i was up to 60kmh!!!! After that i had to accelerate to get to
the 80km speed limit….After about an hour of driving (high speed
80-110kmh) it stopped doing it and went back to normal, for another half an
hour of driving. After not driving it for about 2 hrs it was then back to
high reving as soon as i started it. On a cold start it either revs high or
revs normally and it is the same for hot starts. I should mention also that
i have had the transmission replaced 5 times over the last 9 yrs.(I bought
it new) This was due to it slipping and the last time the trans completely
lost the plot. It still slips but it is ok most of the time. Could the high
reving be somehow related to this?
Any help would be much appreciated,
Sean
Answer
Could be a damaged inner cable but it should not be driven as it may cause
an accident in the wet
Question 3-13 Transfer Case
username=Judy
VehicleType=1994 Chevy Blazer
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=103070
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=United States
State=New York

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=transfercase
comment=My Blazer spits out transmission fluid from the overflow tube on hot
days.  My husband and I thought it was comming from the transmission and
found out it was from the transfer case instead.  How do we correct this
problem without taking it to a garage and spending a fortune.  My husband
has done all of our mechanical work on all of our vehicles from the 1965
chevy  Malibu to the 1998 chevy s10,  granted the 1965 is much easier and
less complicated.  Any help from you will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Judy.  oopps I forgot to add it is 4 wheel drive.
Answer
Sorry not sure
Question 3-14 Head Gasket
username=Dan Roth
VehicleType=Ford Probe
VehicleAge=7
DistanceTravelled=95,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Pennsylvania
DateDD=02
DateMM=06
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Head Gasket Sealants
comment=I have a 95 Ford Probe with a 2.0L engine.  The water pump failed
and the engine overheated.  Two of the four cylinders get coolant into them
and of course it is difficult to start the engine.  I tried “Blue Devil”
sealant to seal the possible blown head gasket.  It worked for 3 days then
leaked again.  Do you know of any sealant that works well?
Dan Roth, Pennsylvania, USA
Answer
I think get it repaired
Question 3-15 Toyota Vienta V6 (Toyota say no to LPG) can I fit gas ?…….
username=Chris
VehicleType=Toyota Vienta V6
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=60,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=LPG conversion for Toyotas
comment=Hello,
Question: can Toyota engines (particularly Vienta V6) take LPG conversion?

Background: I have a Vienta V6.  The need to increase travel has me
thinking of LPG,  but have come across conflicting
information.
1)  Some say any modern engine that can take unleaded petrol can take LPG.
Others, say LPG needs specially hardened valves
& seats etc, as LPG is even drier & burns hotter than unleaded petrol.
And ‘ordinary’
Toyota engines are thus not LPG compatible.

2)  I called up Toyota – the official stance is “LPG not recommended”.
Yet, I also found out (friend in oil industry) that almost all taxis in
Japan run on LPG.  And most taxis are Toyotas!  Unless, of course, there
is actually a different engine for taxis.  I am unable to find this out,
as I can’t read Jap websites.

Have you come across any problems with valve seat recession?
Any info gratefully received
Thanks
Chris
Answer
Chris,
This is a very good question because my answer will change from year to
year.
I had to ring my friend at RL Walker, Noble Park 9791 2549 where Rod
installs LPG to almost any and every vehicle
he also has alot to do with taxis.
This is the following answer
The Toyota is able to be fitted with LPG but the reason why Toyota may say
no is because you will require engine work in the long term.
Its to do with the valves, even tho they are hydraulic they require shims to
prevent any premature wear.
Using gas may require the vales and seats to be check more closely at
service intervals
If your Mr private and travelling about 25,000 kms per year then it “may”
take several years before major work is required.

The taxis in Japan may only operate for X amount of Kms before they are
change over or repaired.
For some reason Toyota may not be interested in running vehicles on gas this
is there right but at a cost to many.

I want to offer another idea, and that is Mitsubishi Magna is bringing out a
factory fitted LPG vehicle this to me is a much better idea because
they seem to listen to there customer needs and are able to make the effort
to change.

Chris I hope this has helped you I know changing the feeling to a Mitsubishi
Magna is at a cost but your pocket will benefit in the long term.

FAQ 3,

username=Jim Mayhan
VehicleType=blazer
VehicleAge=11.5
DistanceTravelled=150,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=USA
State=Georgia
Subject=Vibration
comment=I have a 1991 S10 4DR 4WD Blazer.  I purchased the Blazer in
September 1990.  Over the past year I have had vibration problems at highway
speeds and on accellaration and decellaration.  I have had new tires and
shocks and had the tires balanced a few times.  Finally, I took it to
the dealer and explained the situation.  On Tuesday, 4/16/02, I took it to
the dealer.  He was intent on telling me it was a tire out of balance condition.
After spending $129.90 on tests and balancing, he said the balancing
they did should fix the problem.  Guess what, it is no different than when I
brought it in.  I hate to spend too much money guessing (CV Joints,
bearings, etc.) on a vehicle with 150,000 miles on it.  Any suggestions.
Thank you very much for any assistance,
Jim Mayhan
Answer
James does anyone in America know how to fix a bloody car these days
??????????
Are the wheels non standard ?
I had a similar problem with non standard wheels causing the problem and it
put stress on the shockers thus requiring both struts to be renewed
But I must say it would be great if a company anywhere in the world
could make shockers to last longer than 40,000 Kms and tyres not to fracture so easy.
Henry ford once said bankers are worse people to ever deal with but I feel
some after market parts manufactures need to stop ripping people off.
Cont
Thank you very much for your response.  I  do not believe I have non
tandard wheels.  I have aluminum 15″ wheels.  The tires currently on the
Blazer are LT235/75 R15.  In October, I had new shock absorbers put on the
front and the back.  Do you think the new shocks could be bad.  I have a 1yr
parts and labor warrenty and do you think it would be worth my while getting
them checked?
Thank you again for any help.
Jim
Answer
Yes get opinions also from other shops but make sure the wheels are not the
cause of the problem
Honda Prelude Power Steering Belt and Adjustment
username=Karen T

VehicleType=1991 Honda Prelude
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=146,000 kms
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Canada
State=Nova Scotia

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Power Steering Belt
comment=Hi,

I own a 1991 Honda Prelude.  I have replaced the power steering belt and the
alternator belt.  Both have been “squealing”.  I adjusted the alternator
belt and it is now tighter.  However, the power steering belt is still loose
and very noisy when I start it up.  How do I tighten the belt to
prevent
this high pitched noise.  Thanks.
Answer
The new belts will require re-adjusting after a few days perhaps
its loose now but better soon
Cont
Yes Darren,

I realize that it does require adjustment.  My question still is how do
I adjust the tension on the belt.  I have tried to loosen the adjustment
pulley, but to no avail.  The darn thing still won’t budge.  Any ideas
on how to loosen the nut on the pulley.  I have used all kinds of  WD40
on it. Help!!!!
Darren
Can you send me an image of it and then I may explain where to go
Karen
Hi Darren,
I figured out how to tighten the belt, but the main and only problem I
am having right now is that the bolt on the pulley is seized.  This is a real
problem because I have to back off the main bolt on the center of the pulley
to be able to use the adjustment screws.  How do you loosen a seized bolt?
Some people have said to use heat, but in order to do that I will have to
drop the engine.  There is only about 1 inch of space between the pulley and
the side of the engine compartment.  Hopefully you’ll know some industry
tricks for loosening bolts.  Thanks ever so much for your help.  I think
this is going to be a major concern for most Prelude owners since their cars
are creaping up their in age.
Darren
Spray or to put it in another way flood the bolts with WD40 over several
nights to see if this may create a difference, enough for you to make that
vital adjustment
Karen
Ok, I’ll give that a try and see what happens.  I finally found a belt (away
buying and returning 10 of them) that fits.  Now to get that “stupid” bolt
freed up–this would be a joy.  I’ll let you know what happens.  I really
think once we get it freed up, you should really put that one on your site.
Apparently I’m not the only one with a Prelude that is having the same
problem.

Thanks again.  I’ll let you know how it goes.
VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1 Vibration
username=Eugene

VehicleType=VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=200,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Au
State=WA

sThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Vibration
comment= Hi, I have a vibration problem in the front end that shakes the
steering wheel left to right. I have had this problem come and go since I
first purchased this car. This occours at 90-105km.
I have replaced the front tyres with P6000 Perallis. Which are fitted on
CSA
Alloy Wheels, bought from new. Had all four balanced and a wheel
alignment.
I have always found a problem with the front wheel bearings working loose.
the strut mounts have been replaced.  engine mounts have been replaced.
power steering leeking but tie rod ends seem ok, bushings seem ok.  what
else can I check? I also have a shaking problem in the rear. Seems to have
got worse over time.  I found a leeking shock and have orderd new ones. I
have checked the center tale shaft bearing, seems ok.  Anything else I
should check?
Any info would be much appreciated.  Thank you.
Answer
Eugene,

Even though the shockers may seem ok they may still be causing a problem
I do not recommend Munro as they don’t seem to last the distance
Look for any tyre fractures and or bent rims
Try that
DGB
Ford Escort Cooling System
username=Daniel Felice

VehicleType=ford escort
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=225877
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Sydney
DateDD=02
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=cooling system
comment=Can you please help me i have a 1980 model ford escort and while
driving the temp needle doesn’t move but when im stopped at traffic lights
of in traffic it goes up to boiling then when i keep driving it goes back to cold…..
i’ve changes the thermostat,ratiator and i’ve disconnected the heater
because i was told that it could be blocked, i’ve also been driving the car
with no thermostat it still does the same thing.

please help……

Answer
Danier,
This is a normal problem with your type of vehicle, its because the fan is
not effective at idle
You need to consider getting a thermo fan fitted this way it should cut in
at idle speed
DGB
Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback Clutch & Brakes
username=Filipo

VehicleType=Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback
VehicleAge=12 DistanceTravelled=260k
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=New Zealand

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Clutch and Brakes
comment=Hello there,
Would like some instructions on how to change the clutch on my car. Also
would like to know why the braking is pulsing as well as the car begins to
shake when driving around and over 100k
Also would like to know why water is leaking from the front of the engine
(according to a friend – this is the water pump – has a little hole on it
and is leaking water). Lastly – the car does not appear to run stable – rpms
rise and drop all the time – when driving – its a bit bumpy sort of like not
firing correctly. I have replaced spark plugs, leads, same problem.
If you can give some clues – I would appreciate it very much. Thank
you in advance

Regards
P Filipo
Answer
I don’t have the free time to instruct you on how to fit the clutch As for
the braking system it would be a good idea to check the following Check tie
rods Machine the disc’s rotors also make sure they are not under size The
water leaking could be anything send me an image showing where the water is
leaking DGB
Cont
Thank you Darren
I really appreciate your response. I will get on to sending you an image of
the water leak as soon as I can

Kind regards

P Filipo
Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980  VB Commodore Ignition Barrel
username=Gary Mayes

VehicleType=Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=245,000 Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=VB Commodore Ingintion Barrel
comment=I’m currently attempting to replace the ingnition barrel on a Holden
VB Commodore. (1980, red motor, auto 3.3L)
I have read the section in the VB  maintenance manual throroughly and cannot
get the ignition barrel out from the steering column.
As per manual, I have removed steering wheel, indicator switch and the
hazard relay. The manual then says to stick a small screwdriver or pin into
the indicator switch hole and the barrel will slide out. The only access to
the barrel is one hole, just to the right of the steering lock pin, which
gives access to a cogwheel assembly which rotates as the key is turned in
the ignition.
I have been advised that I need to depress the tab on the main ignition
barrel body, which will release the unit from the steering column, but I
just can’t get access to this tab.
Also the manual says I should have the ingnition in the ‘Off’ position for
removal, but the tab on the barrel will only depress when the key is in the
‘On’ position??

Confused!
Answer
Its a real bugger the first time around, perhaps the pin requires more force
Gary
Cheers for that Darren. I actually found out what the problem was. The slot where you can access the pin was still closed from the initial casting of the alloy. So when you look at it there appears to be no hole at all. However if you poke around with a screwdriver, where the pin “should” lie, the thin alloy easily pushes through, revealing the pin on the barrel. One for the maintenance manual I guess!!
Anyway, thanks for your reply.
1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon  Steps to remove water pump
username=massey
VehicleType=1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon
VehicleAge=13
DistanceTravelled=100,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=New Zealand
State=North Island

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Steps to remove water pump
I have had trouble removing radiator so as to get a better veiw of bolts on water pump.
ive managed to dismantal all bolts that secure radiator,i have also removed
nuts that are secured to the pulley,the propellor i cant figure how to
remove as my attempts have been futile. the radiator is in the way and cant remove.
Answer
Massey,
You need a special large open ender that is 1 1/16 it also will only turn anti clockwise see how you go with that
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch but did not fill out the form …………

Subject: Automotive Question

I was recently involved in a serious accident that was a direct result of
being towed. I am curious to how the brakes of my automatic vehicle (1985
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch – 120,000 ks) would have operated while the
engine was turned off, and the car was being moved whilst in neutral.
There seems to be a large percentage of opinions that believe the brake
performance would have been severely restricted or non operational.

Thank You – Kat
Answer
This is a free service, to get this free service fill the form out……………
AR Ford Teltsar Ghia faulty electronic dash Workshop Manual
username=brad maker

VehicleType=AR Ford Teltsar Ghia
VehicleAge=1985
DistanceTravelled=264000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIAN
State=QLD

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=faulty electronic dash
comment=digital dash on telstar shows the speedo flashing with ignition on
or with engine running,also fuel and temperature digital gauges do not work
at all. When stardard analogue dash is fitted every thing works ok. Do you
have any imformation on the electronic boards fitted inside the digital dash
and possibably what board is faulty . If not can you supply the electronic
wirirg circuits for the boards and the dash it is not available through
Haynes or Gregorys Manuals ,thank you.
Answer
Try here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Holden Calais VT Idler pulleys
username=Clive

VehicleType=Holden Calais VT
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=69,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=03
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Idler pulleys
comment=I’ve been getting this ringing sound from the idler pulley’s when in
drive and reverse gets worse when steering wheel is turned, I’ve replaced
both idler pulley’s and support also the belt it shut’s up for awhile then
the noise comes back changed it again and still there. Could it be something
else getting really frustrated with it
Answer
Clive
We still have a possible fault in the following areas
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Perhaps remove the belt and rotate the pulleys feeling for any rough bearing
noise
Ford Bronco Charging system ?……
username=Dan Miller

VehicleType=Ford Bronco
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=190,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=US
State= Nebraska

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Charging
comment=On my Bronco I have a new alternator , new regulator, and a good
battery (12.5 volts)and i have checked all my wires with a multi-gauge and
it is still not charging. I have a dead battery every couple of weeks. I
think just from starting .also i checked the battery with the multi-gauge
and i only get about 10v after its started it remains the same.  I was told
too that if i remove the negative cable from the battery i could tell if it
was charging cuz the alternator would keep it going but when i do it dies ..
I have done this before and it has kept running , anyways I can use all help
i can get..
Thank You
Dan Miller
Answer
Dan,
The alternator should be charging out at 13.5 – 14.2 it will only do this if
the following are in order
Alternator is charging out 13.5 – 14.2
If the fan belt is firm
Battery is in good condition (get it tested to make sure)
Battery terminals are firm and not corroded
Positive wires are in good condition
Earth lead to the engine is secure

Try that Dan
1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
username=Andrew

VehicleType=1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
comment=Dear Darren,

Could you please tell me how to set the ignition timing on a 1985 VK V8
(308) Commodore Berlina.  I recently replaced the carburettor, as it had a
perforated diaphragm. Since replacing the carburettor, the car has not idled
as smoothly as it should.  By a process of elimination, I have come to the
conclusion that the timing is out, this was confirmed by checking the
timing. I have been unable to find any information on how to re-set the
timing. Hoping you are able to help.

Kind Regards,
Andrew
Victoria/Australia
Answer
Andrew you will need to go here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Maxima Intermittent misfire
username=Bob Ennis

VehicleType=Maxima
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=65k
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=A.C.T.

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Intermittent missfire
comment=Hi Darren, Just a bit of info about myself. Ex-mechanic (got out in
84, after 20 years, just as the electronics came in) still TRY to keep up,
but it’s a loosing battle!
This one has got me stumped! It’s a 99 maxima, serviced by the book since
new. (by me) It missfires, ie: a totaly dead cylinder, when it feels like
it. No apparent reason. Sometimes after 20km, sometimes on cold startup.
Sometimes not for a week. Don’t notice a loss of power on the highway.
Have done the obvious things, like new plugs ($160), cleaned the throttle
body, new air filter, checked timing, checked for loose hoses and
connections.
When it is missing the exhaust sounds like a burnt valve, and it feels to
“suck back”.
This condition only lasts for 3 to 5 minutes, then it reverts back to
normal on it’s own.
On reflection, it goes back to a “won’t idle” situation a few months ago.
I cleaned the throttle body and gave it a drink of injector cleaner.(can’t
remember the brand) It then ran perfectly for a few weeks.
Have had it into the local dealer, and of course, it wouldn’t do it.(they
think I’m a nut) Before I let them have access to my bank account(they want to start
replaceing coils, injectors and such)what do you think about the
possibility of a hydrolic lifter problem?
I’m happy to drive it untill something totaly drops the bundle, but the wife
wants it fixed!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Bob.
Answer
Bob,
About 1 in every 150 questions I enjoy and yours is one of them.
I went to the trouble to ask my ECU repair tech man and we both feel it is
not an electronic problem
I feel it maybe dirty fuel hanging around the or one of the injectors
I understand your wife is not happy but you will need to catch it when it
happens and try to work out what injector is putting stress on the
relationship
Ford tx 5   (turbo)  Bearings front
username=Leon

VehicleType=ford tx 5   (turbo)
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Bearings front
comment=Hello Mate,This for my daughter her cat is a ford tx5..turbo year 88
she has a grinding sound when the car is moving i thought it might be the
gear box but it changes good,ive tried to undo the lock nut, the kind that
was kinked into the axle shaft like key grove.It wount move what ever iv
done 32mm socket on long bar still wont budge L/hand side.if i heat it is
there nylon bushes or other things there .And do you think that noisre is
the bearing .thanks mate
Answer
Can you record the noise and e-mail it to me in MP3 format
Ford Telstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve Fitting a Timing belt
username=Neil Coetzee

VehicleType=FordTelstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve
VehicleAge=8 yrs (1994model)
DistanceTravelled=275000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Fitting a Timing belt
comment=Hi.
Having just replaced the water pump as the old one was shot,
I removed the timing belt to get to the water pump without moving the cam
pulleys,
They are atill in their original places, But I cannot refit the belt, it wion’t go back on.
How do I fit the belt ?
Should I position the pulleys etc before refitting the belt?
What is the correct proceedure to fit the timing belt ?
Answer
You really need the manual to do it for the first time
Datsun 260Z  jump starting methodology
username=Eric Bettio

VehicleType=Datsun 260Z
VehicleAge=27
DistanceTravelled=120,000 est
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=jump starting methodology
comment=I have just found your website and like it very much. My question
is a general one regarding your method for jump starting a car. Why is it that
the final connection of jumper leads is to the chassis of the car rather
than to the negative terminal of the battery (as it is on the car with the
good battery)? I have seen and heard many times that the final connection
is to the chassis but see no reason why.
Thanks,
Eric
Answer
The final connection is where the circuit is completed therefore its where
the spark will also occur
apart from this the reason is to jump start the start motor not the battery
Cont
Thank you for your answer, it all makes a bit more sense now, I know the
batter gives off fammable gases (hydrogen and oxygen) and a spark could be a
problem.
thanks again
eric

FAQ 2,

Question 2-1 Suspect charging problem
Hi Darren,

I have a Mitsubishi Magna TS (1990).
I find that I can drive the car for, say, an hour with the voltmeter on the
dashboard dead centre (vertical). If, either parked or driving, I raise the rpm
momentarily to over 3000, then the needle moves (slowly) to 3/4 scale, and will stay
there for the rest of the trip.

Alternatively, before starting a trip, if  I idle the engine momentarily at 3000 rpm,
the needle will move (slowly) to 3/4 scale, and stay there.

In other words, at some stage in a trip, the rpm needs to exceed 3000 before the
needle will move to the 3/4 scale postion. Normally, this would occur when
accelerating  from a traffic light.

Is this normal, or abnormal, behaviour for my car?
Incidentally, the battery is a new one installed by the RACV last week.
Cheers,

Don Watson Australia-Victoria

Answer
Don,

Thank for dropping by,
The charging system should be from 13.8-14.2 volts now this what you may
want to do.

With the engine at idle
Switch the headlights on high beam if you observe the volt meter declining
down towards 12 or less
You have a problem
The problem maybe in the Voltage reg, Alternator or the lead going from the
alternator to the battery
Now on the other hand if you notice the volts inclining over 14.2 volts this
is also bad because you may cook the battery.

So it might be an idea to test the charge rate via another multi meter just
to make sure the dash meter is reading a true value

Don I hope this will help you remember the charging system can under charge
or over charge like my bank

Let me know how you get on

Question 2-2 Suspect transmission
Hi Darren,

I have a Golf CL, 1800CC, 1997 Automatic.
I am having a problem with my car. Sometimes it strugles to change gear from
1st to 2nd gear. I have recently got it serviced and even changed the filter and gear oil.
Could you please help?
Thanks in advance

Bini Redda UK
Answer
Bini,

This sounds like you need a transmission specialist, but its a good idea to
get three quotes as the VW is expensive on parts
did the performance improve after the service and what did the service agent
say about this problem.

Darren
Question 2-2
Daren,
thanks ever so much for your prompt reply.
When I spoke to the service agent, the only thing he did was change the gear
oil and filter. Then I took it to my mechanic for service.
It did improve a bit but not as good as I once have known my car. The reason
why I took my car to this guy is my mechanic said he doesn’t know a lot
about automatic gear.
Thanks again in advance

Answer
Bini,

I love VW’s but I think VW have become very expensive when it comes to repairs
These days one may consider taking there vehicle to specialist’s
Auto= Auto trans specialists etc
I have a 1964 Karman Ghia, one day I will be putting it on the road, until
then try a specialist Bini and best of luck

Darren
Question 2-3 A timing belt or timing chain ???
Dear Darren

I have a mitsubishi magna 1992 model. Has it got a timing belt to be replaced. It has done 130,000 kms. I am told this model has no timing belt.

Regards
Allen
Melbourne
Answer
Allen,

They are fitted with a timing chain so this means it will not require any
replacement
Perhaps let me in on what you were told and who told you that it required
replacement or are we just playing????????

DGB
Question 2-4 Flat battery
Darren,
I just bought a 1991 Mitsubishi Lancer today and washed it.
Since i washed it, it won’t start up. The battery light hasn’t
gone on at all. All it does, is make a repeated fast clicking
noise. Help!! Also, would you happen to know where the choke is?
I can’t seem to find it and don’t even know if there is one at
all.
Thanks,
Petra (Australia)

Answer
Ok Petra, disregard the automatic choke.
I think I know what your problem is, it sounds like the battery is the
cause.  This is common as the noise produced is a machine gun sound.  Do the
following,
1. Go down the bottle shop ask for a bottle of Jack Daniels.  Send this to
me in the morning!
2. We need to make sure the battery terminals are secure.  To do this, try
to wriggle the negative (black) terminal, and the positive (red) terminal on
the battery.  If they are loose, you need a 10mm spanner to retention the
clamps.
3. Either jump start, with a good set of leads (most leads aren’t really
suitable as they are not heavy enough), to supply an adequate supply of
current.
4.  The other and the best option, is to replace the battery, provided that
it’s at least 18-24 months old, but remember, that you may have already lost
your radio security code, so don’t stress, if you don’t have it, Mitsubishi
will be kind enough to slug you for typing out your password.

In summary, Petra, please consider replacing the battery, rather than jump
starting as jump starting may damage the onboard computer.

Now the reason why the battery decided to fail, is because it had a heart
attack.  Because your particular vehicle being a very good engine design, it
does not require much energy from the battery when cranking to start the
engine.  Therefore, anything like leaving the ignition on for only five
minutes, or the radio, will cause the final stroke!  We will be starting up
battery funeral plans in the future, but the local council is charging too
much for the lead content being deposited into our local grounds.  Petra,
thanks for coming by virtualmechanic.  I hope I have been of some help.
Please keep in touch, tell your friends about me.  Remember, you can always
look at my videos at your local library.
Best wishes with your new car.  Keep up the good work with her maintenance.
Remember, there’s a whole lot of really helpful advice on maintaining her on
my website.  Cheers!

Darren.
Thankyou Darren
Thank you very much for your advice. You turned out to be right
and I have actually gotten the battery replaced today and it
works beautiful now. Again, thanks for your help.
Petra.

Question 2-4 Boot leaking Sorry trunk leaking
Hi Darren,

My name’s Nandi and I live in Salem, OR in the US and drive a 1995
Mitsubishi Mirage.Found out recently that the trunk is leaking
somewhere, I always find about 2 cups worth of water in there after a
rain. The rubber seal around the trunk seems to be in great shape. Any
other ideas about where I should check for leaks?

Thanks!

Nandi Salem United States
Answer
Nandi,

Try the following.
Either adjust the boot down to close closer or adjust the seal up to prevent
water from entering

Darren
Question 2-5 Horn going off
Dear Darren,
I have a 1992 Hyundai Excel, the horn is going off for no apparent reason. I need to find the fuse but do not know where it is located, I found the fuses for everything else but not the horn. If I can stop the horn from working in the meantime, I can then take it to someone who can fix it.
Your advise would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Bronwen  Australia
Answer
The Horn fuse is under the bonnet, if you cannot find it then disconnect the horn
DGB
Question 2-5
Thank you for that Darren, whereabouts under the bonnet is the fuse located. As you can probably tell I am not very mechanically minded.
Regards,
Bronwen
Answer
Bronwen,
Its a bit tricky, its on the passenger side front but as I recall it may not indicate its the indicator fuse, so with the ignition on carefully remove one fuse at a time until the horn will no longer operate.
DGB
Question 2-6
G’day Darren,

I have noticed that my front wheels make a clicking noise only sometimes
when turning corners, would you have any clue how much it would cost for
my particular car? Another problem I have is the input shaft or thrust
bearing  is noisy when the car is in idle but only intermittent, any clue how much  that is to?

My car is a 1984 AR Ford Telstar TX5 Ghia Hatchback, 2.0 4 cylinder motor,
5  speed manual. Any other information about this particular car would be most helpful.
Thankyou,
Regards
Bobby Cerny Victoria Australia
Answer
Bobby,
Ha lets start by say your site is great.
The CV Joints can cost anything from $160.00 to $350.00 it depends on
whether they are new or reco
If you near Mordialloc I can do it for you but more importantly you can
watch
The input bearing is wearing the clutch if its making a noise so perhaps
wait until it gets worse and renew the clutch
at between 350-450 depends on reco or new as well as getting the flywheel
machined (highly recommended)
Does this help you.
Darren
Question 2-6 Temp guage or other
Hi there
My name is Erin I have a problem with my 1989 nissan pulsar gx 1.8
i just got it back from the mechanic, i had the engine reconditioned
and i noticed  that the temp gauge  gets pretty high really quickly.
could they have put anti-freeze in the engine or could it be just from the hot weather.
any answer would be great
erin Melbourne Australia
Answer
Erin,
This doesn’t sound good.
It maybe a slow acting thermostat, or the thermostat it self maybe faulty
Anti freeze has nothing to do with the Temp needle quickly moving high
Erin is the temp going higher than before??
Darren
Question 2-6 Manifold Gasket
Hi,

I just finished rebuilding the top end of my 98 Jeep Wranglers 4.0L.
Everything went fine with the rebuild, other than the fact that the
manifold gasket ( it shares a common gasket for the intake and exhaust) didn’t seal
completely. There is a minor leak on one of the exhaust ports. I have
pulled it apart and had the manifolds checked by my machinist, and it all checks
out fine, they are not uneven. I re-installed with a new gasket (direct from Mopar, not after market) I
am still experiencing a sealing problem, My question is it OK to use any type
of sealant? If so what type?
PS….yes I did use a torque wrench and the proper torque sequence.

Thank you,

Steve US
Answer
Steve,
I’ve been there and this is why people start drinking, its because manifold
gaskets don’t seal.
Now this is a possible solution, when you tension the manifolds make sure
the inlet bolted to the exhaust is loose enough to move this way both
manifolds are on the same plain
Sometimes it might be required to plain both inlet and exhaust if the
manifolds have been separated.
See how you go

DGB
Question 2-7 Timing belt
What is the average mileage I should expect from this timing belt?  The service recommends 60,000.  However, the 1998 model recommends 90,000.
Don’t want to spend money I don’t need to.  Please advise. Donna Australia
Answer
Donna,

The answer is any between 60,000 to 90,000 but I have known timing belts to snap at 105,000, now the question is when will the belt snap.
The choice is yours, and yes the timing belt is costly as it takes a bit of time to remove and replace.
But can I say that you are doing the right thing by following the booklet because if the belt would snap it may not only cause the engine to stop but may damaged the engine.

DGB

PS Would it really hurt if you let me know what state you lived ?????
Question 2-8 Rough Riding
Hello Darren,
I’ve read several of the questions and answers trying to get an answer
to my problem. I get bits and pieces here and there, so here is my problem. I
own a 1996 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 valve. Presently my accelerator pedal is
sticking. I barely touch it and it sticks, then I press it a little harder
and it’s fine…gets past that sticky point. Is it the pedal itself or
another problem.
Also the car has a vibration in it when I press the accelerator. It’s
like it doesn’t catch up with my acceleration fast enough. When I come off
the accelerator, the vibration stops. What can this be? Sometimes the entire
front end shakes so bad when I accelerate, i think something’s going to fall
from underneath. I had a tuneup done about a year ago…replacing plugs and
wires. My car hasn’t run smoothly since.        I got a batch of gas last
summer which contained water. They had to drain my gas tank. Could this be
part of the problem? At the dealership where they drained my gas tank, they
told me that my #5 valve had a lope in it. Could the water in the gas have
made this problme worse? Its was “loping” before I got the water in the tank,
but not as bad, and this vibration thing started shortly after that? Please
give me a direction as to where to start. The car starts fine, but the RPM is
on 2 while sitting idle in park; running very fast. This happened after they
drained my gas tank. I would appreciate any information you could give to
help me diagnois my problem. Thank you.

Rough Riding in Shonna TX
Answer
Sticking throttle maybe the cause of the inner cable strains coming apart,
you may see this at or around the ends of the cable
This vibration maybe something to do with the following
Slipping clutch
Bent tailshaft
Wheels out of balance
Shockers require renewal

Darren
Thankyou Darren

Thank you for replying to my e-mail. It is very helpful for when I
have to take the car to the mechanic, I can give him an idea as to where
to start. That way they won’t have to keep my car ALL day, or numerous days!
(smile) Sorry for not giving you my name….its Shonna and I live in
Texas.
Again thanks for the VERY helpful information. I think your question and
answer page is the greatest, and to continue encouraging you, you’re doing
a GREAT job! Thanks again for your input, and keep the bolts turning….lol!
Thanks,
Shonna
Question 2-9 Leaking oil but no sign
I have recently bought a 1985 Mitsubishi L300 4×4 with 113000km and in excellent nic. I did an oil and filter change just before taking it on a 2 week tour, and had no problems at all. When I got back home the oil light came on. I checked the oil level and the dipstick was bone dry! There is no sign of major oil leaks that I can see, and I’m certain that it is not blowing smoke even slightly. A friend suggested I’m losing the oil only when its under pressure and may have blown the head gasket. Can you please advise. Thanks.

Thanks Brian NSW Australia
Answer
Brian,

Most people think there is a person who goes around in the night to steal
oil out of the engine, because the average person looks on the driveway and
maybe just a little bit of oil is under the engine its not a big leak it
should be ok.

Fact,
Any vehicle travelled over 100,000kms is an engine waiting to leak oil, you
maybe thinking that’s wrong, well that’s life.
I thinks its disgusting that engines leak at and around 100,000Km but it
comes down to the car makers, they have allot to answer for. Some people
decide to replace the rear main seal only to find that its the crankshaft
that’s moving thus causing the oil to leak, now I’m sure there will be experts
who will read this answer and not agree.

Brian I want to add that if you see oil at or around the rear main seal
(This is where the engine is joined to the transmission)
then the first option is try to renew the rear main seal but I have only
found success if the seal was hard, thus loosing its ability to hold back
oil.

If the seal is in good order and the shaft is grooved then a stainless steal
sleeve maybe fitted, but if the crank is not round then maybe elongated
making it impossible for any seal to be effective.

Now without seeing your vehicle, I can only assume its the rear main seal,
so what you need to do is leave the engine running
in the driveway but only for 10 to 20 minutes and get down there to observe
where the oil is leaking

I own a Mitsu Van 91 model and I think Mitsu made a very good vehicle, I
also have an oil leak but because I’m so busy
I haven’t explored my options

I hope you find help in this answer

Darren

Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage

Hello Darren,,

I have a 93 Nissan Pickup with 3 V type fan belts.
I do most of my fan belt replacements and adjustments myself,,however,,
I am frustrated at guessing as to how much flex that a given belt is as
to the manufacturers specs.
I am inquiring as to whether there is a V belt tensioning  guage that
will show me at a glance when I have the proper tension as to the
specifications in my service manual.
I have tried using a ruller,,but it is so hard to see the exact
measurement,,,especially laying on my back in restricted working conditions.
I don’t have any problem with adjusting more or less tension,,,as on my
vehicle,,,adjustment screws are provided on the Altenator,,Power Steering and
Air Compressor.  But only need an easy to use guage that will show the
measured flex or proper tension.
Any help would be appreciated.
I am particularly looking for a tool/guage that is ease to use and
doesn’t cost a whole lot to purchase.
Please help me if you can..

Sincerely

Joe US
Answer
Joe,

The short answer is firm, not too loose and not to tight
The fan belt tension is more by feel than by measure
Perhaps go to a car lot and check and feel different tensions of belts to
get the feel

Only a loose belt will start to squeal and shout out for help

Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage (Part 2)
Hey Darren,,

The fan belt tension is more by feel than by measure<<

Thank you for replying to me Darren,,,and I think that your answer is
true,,However,,My Sevice manual describes the procedure of correct
tightness in the amount of flex(In inches),,, between designate pulley’s at
aproximately 20 lbs of pressure.
What I am trying to do is get the tightness to the exact specs.
without guessing as  to how much the belts are too tight or too loose.
I have been told that if the belts are too tight that they will put
too much pressure on the bearings of the different
components,,,Altenator,,water pump,,,AC pump,,,is that true??
Do you know of a tool that will give me the exact measurement,,,other
than a straight edge or ruller???

Thanks
Joe
Answer
Joe

There is a tool its now available for viewing at the Virtual Mechanic
International Automotive Museum (VMIAM)
its in Melbourne Victoria but it only opens once every 100 years and it only
has a licence to open for only one day.
I just so happened that it was yesterday it was open.

Apart from that I remember twenty years ago using one as a hammer at trade
school at Richmond Tafe, we had to stay back that day until the teacher
found out who did it.
I stayed at school for days until I got hungry, they give us only KFC but
with no salt it was horrible.

I don;t know of any person that would use such a tool as I think we have all
lost the art of being spot on.

DGB
Question 2-10 Fan Belt tension guage (Part 3)
Hey Darren,,,:-)

Oh damn,,,I missed the viewing by just 24 hours.  Typical,,I always miss
out on the important events…:-),,,,However,,,:-)
I called a large parts store and they are supposed to have one for about
12 dollars,,believe it or not,,,,and I even remembered that I may have one in
my toolbox as well.   I just clean forgot all about it…:-)
Thanks for the help Darren,,,
Gone to get some KFC with hot peppers…:-)
Joe
Answer
Joe don’t tell the person at the store as it is a very rear tool
If my old teacher at Richmond finds out he will want one and I have it on
Good authority he has friends
on pay day.

DGB
Question 2-11 Thermo Fan staying on
USA.  January, my 1998 Dodge caravan’s radiator fan will not stop
after the engine has been turned off! What could the trouble be?

Doug from Maryland
Answer
Hi Doug

The problem maybe in the relay for some reason it could be sticking
The question is does the fan eventually switch off if so this is normal
If not you might consider getting your local auto electrician to test the
relay
The reason why I ask your name and where you live is it makes other people
aware
how far The Virtual Mechanic (Australian) is reaching
I don’t charge for this service but if people want there question considered
Then I ask if they can be human and friendly about it

Darren
Question 2-12
Darren,

Simple job it would seem. To change the rear disc pads on a 1987 Honda
Prelude 2.0i. Both sides were very worn. Everything going well. Calipers
off old pads out new pads ready. Now I need to push the caliper pistons back
into to create room for the thickness of the new pads. They wont budge.
Hand brake is off, automatic transmission in neutral, I have even taken the
tops off the hydraulic fluid reservoirs. Not a fraction will they move. I
have tried C clamps, levering with screwdriver. Even tried to take some
pressure out of the system with the bleed nipples.
What have I forgotten? It is an ABS model also 4 wheel steering. Have
the calipers seized (unlikely I think). Ideas please.

Thanks in advance,

Fraser Barrons,
Auckland NZ
Answer
Fraser,  before I begin to tell you what to do here, VM does not accept
any liability for or in respect of information and advice provided on this
site
or incorporated into it by reference or any other site linked to this
site.
The VM does not accept any liability for loss or damage incurred as a
result of reliance placed upon the content of this site. Use of information and
data contained on this site is at the reader’s sole risk.
The rear callipers are different to the front, because they are connected
to a handbrake mechanism you need to screw or rewind the piston back into the
calliper.  This can be tricky.  You may see some pins inside the piston
which require a special tool to rewind the pistons back into the calliper.
However, you could also use some multigrips, but I don’t recommend this as
it may damage the piston itself.  Whilst rotating or rewinding the piston,
you need to also apply slight force to make sure the ratchet is turning
within the mechanism inside the calliper.  Now this is where the problems
start.  You may feel as excited as Big Kev when you retract the piston
inside the calliper, but you then need to make sure that the hand brake
mechanism is fully operational.  Fraser, I think this will give you a very
good start into your renewal of rear pads.  Good luck!!
Darren.
Thankyou Darren
Darren,

Thanks a lot I’ll get on it tomorrow am. That is the best response/service I
have ever had on the web. Thanks.

Fraser
Question 2-12 Transmission problems
Hi Darren,

Great site! I was lucky to stumble upon it while doing a search
for a problem with my car.

A while back (about a year or two ago), our 1989 camry developed
a problem where it would sometimes shudder (feels as if the driver would
press the pedal and let go, and repeat this process a few times) when
accelerating from idle.

We have a trusted mechanic that looks after our car, so we took
it to him and he did a check up of it. He drained some oil from the
gearbox and it was all black, and there were apparently some parts
inside that may have melted. He changed the gearbox and told us to
contact him if the problem persisted.

It was almost immediately apparent that the problem was not
solved. The mechanic’s tests didn’t reveal a thing, and the issue didn’t
crop up when he did a test drive of our car. One way or another, the
issue of the overdrive switch cropped up, as he told us we should switch
it off when driving in city roads, and that because we had been driving
with it on all this time that it might have not “been very good for the
car.” He had assumed we had been driving the car with the overdrive
disengaged on normal roads all this time, and suggested that we turn it
off when driving in the suburbs/city, while turning it on when we drive
on the freeways (past 80kph) and when we switch the car off.

Needless to say, this did solve the shudder problem. But I’ve
always wondered why this was so. My understanding of the overdrive
switch was to control whether the car should engage into 4th gear or
stay in third when it the car speed was hanging around the change point
(around 58kph?). I couldn’t see what this had to do with the stop-start
issue. Do you know what’s happening?

Alan Wong
Sydney, Australia NSW
December 1989 Camry.
Answer
Dear Alan,

Thank you for dropping by our website as we are getting inundated with
queries at the moment we can only give priority to fellow Aussies!  Your
question was good, in that when we respond, it answers a lot of other
similar questions.

I need to start by fragmenting your question, because you presented several
issues that need elaboration.  The first issue that concerns me, is the
black transmission fluid.  Your mechanic was right in indicating that there
was a problem.  Black fluid is the result of contaminated transmission
fluid.  This can be caused by several factors, overheating, lack of
servicing or direct mechanical failure.  The remedy, of course, is a
transmission repair or change-over.  Having had experienced work at a Toyota
dealership as part of my 20 years experience, I have found that the only way
to rectify this problem was to make sure that the fluid lines were
completely flushed out with new fluid.  Also, if the original torque
converter was used it also needed to be flushed out.  Contaminated
transmission fluid is a common cause for shifting shudder.

I am assuming that this was the procedure followed by your mechanic.  So
this brings me to my next step.  The fact that the same thing is happening
with a constant or intermittent occurrence, makes me feel that we still have
a problem in something like a micro switch or a valve in the valve body.
Without getting too technical,  I go along with the fact that overdrive is
best switched off after/or around 80kph on some models.  But I don’t believe
that it is a manufacturing fault.  Alan, you haven’t indicated how many kms
the vehicle has travelled, therefore, it is difficult to answer further.
But, having said that, I ask that you may consider the possibility of a
potential tyre fracture on any one of your four tyres?  I hear what you are
saying Alan, you are describing a shudder, and yes, there still may be a
shudder in the transmission.  If there is, it may be an ongoing problem if
the transmission has contaminated fluid.  If it’s a shudder caused by a
fractured tyre, then having your tyres rebalanced would be a good start,
thus creating a process of elimination.

I hope this has been of some assistance to you.

DGB

Question 2-13 Harmonic balancer & Air conditioning
Hi Darren,
I have a 1988 EA Ford Falcon with the 3.9lt CFI
engine.  I was told by my mechanic that I need to
replace the harmonic balancer, even though there are
no unusual vibrations etc…  The only reason I could
think of why this needs to be replaced is it may have
been damaged in a recent front-end accident I had.  He
reckons it’s about to fall off and only the belts are
holding it on.  Does this sound like bullshit?  How
much should I expect to pay to have it replaced?  Or
is it an easy enough job to do myself (I’m pretty
handy with tools).

Two of my welsh plugs on the exhaust side are leaking.
What are they exactly?  Am I right in assuming that
it’s coolant leaking from them?

In the recent accident I had my air-con condenser was
damaged and as a result the system wouldn’t hold
pressure.  The mechanic said that if he replaced the
condenser then he’d also have to replace the ‘reciever
drier’ or something as it would get air/moisture into
it when disconnecting the condenser.  I was quoted
$500-$600.  Is this guy having me on or what?  I’ve
never heard of a ‘reciever drier’ before.  Could you
please tell me if this guy is giving me the
run-around?

Thanks heaps,
Doug Adams
VIC, Australia.
Answer
Doug,

Great questions.
We will start with the harmonic balancer, this being the main pulley at the
front of the engine also being the pulley that drives all fan belts, the
harmonic balancer is also designed to balance the crank shaft at all speeds.

It seems your mechanic is looking out for you because he/she can see the
possible danger of it falling off, and yes they can loose it in there life
and just give up.

So its true, they can spin off and create alot of damage to anything in its
path.
As far as you changing the harmonic balancer sure, but it can be tricky as
you may also need to replace the seal.
I’d get your mechanic to do it.

The welsh plugs leaking are a pain to replace, so if they are leaking its
best to get them done ASAP, it would be my preference to do all at once,
that’s if you intend to keep your car for a few years

The air conditioning is made up of many parts, we will take about two, the
condensor and the receiver dyer
The condensor is the component that transfers liquid into vapour, it looks
like a thin radiator, and is in front of the radiator, always the first to
kill bugs, and the first to receive damage in an accident.

The receiver dryer is a very important round black canister that is designed
to filter the system, it is of my opinion that any time parts like the
condensor are replaced, then also the filter.Think of it like this if you
decide to tune the engine on your EFI then it would make sense to change the
filter atleast every 40,000Kms.

Doug these parts are costly, but the most important aspect here is your
mechanic is looking out for you, and that is good to know, not all workshops
are doing the right thing these days.

The price that he quoted was fair, above all Doug I hope this helps you.

Darren
Question 2-14 Hyundai – Heater problems
I have a 1992 hyundai excel i noticed that when i start the car and turn the heater on and leave it running for awhile 20 min, it doesn’t heat up much, the water temp gauge reads  low and only rises soon after i take off,and the gauge never rises much over a 1/4way could this be that i need a new hearter. thank you

Dee Australia

Answer
Dee,

Start with getting the cooling system flushed out including the heater core this might save you alot of cash and keep the little engines warm.

Darren
Question 2-15
VehicleType=dodge caravan
VehicleAge=1994
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=
State=MO

Subject=hood release
comment=Can’t open hood.  Inside latch is broken.HOW do you do that now?
Answer
What did I say about a one line question !!!!!!
Question 2-16
NEVILLE NEWMAN
VehicleType=EA FALCON 1990 S.PACK
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=80.000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=CAR IDLING
HAS STARTED TO RUN RUFF.WHEN IDLING IN DRIVE
Answer
What did I say about a one line question !!!!!!
Question 2-17
username=Polsky Valery
VehicleType=peugeot 306
VehicleAge=5
DistanceTravelled=205000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Israel
State=central region

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=idle step motor test
comment=Please explain how to test idle step motor and
if it possible, in two words, how it’s working (to fix tester).
Answer
Sorry it would take me too long to answer
Question 2-18
username=Cindy Rader

VehicleType=Hyundai Tiburon
VehicleAge=5 (1997)
DistanceTravelled=70,000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=USA
State=Alaska

Is There Road Safety Education In Your Town=Yes
Subject=Won’t start
comment=A couple of weeks ago my 1997 Hyundai Tiburon started running pretty bad and wouldn’t start all the time, so thinking it just needed a tune-up I took it in to have a tune up.  $126 later they had changed the oil and filters, but I found the next day it was still doing the same thing and refusing to start.  I took it to a different place, and one week later (after waiting for parts), and after costing almost $500, they told me it was the fuel pump and ordered and replaced that part.  That was two days ago, and I went out to start the car today and it refuses to start again.  The station where I took it said to bring it back again, but I’m worried that I have already spent over $600 and it still is not working.  I haven’t been able to get it started yet today even after waiting for the past couple of hours.  IT obviously wasn’t the fuel pump, but what do you think it could be?
Answer
It could be anything but it would be my advice search for an autoelectrician
A friend had a similar problem and it turn out to be a faulty ignition
switch causing the ignition to disconnect
But I do not suggest to start replacing this item until its proven to be theproblem
Switching auto shops to find and answer is sometimes a costly exercise
Finding a good auto electrician is cost effective
DGB
Question 2-19
Hi Darren,
I got Toyota Camry Feb/1997, Auto, 2.2L, Widebody,
A/C, manual window. How much foot pound shoul I torque
the spark plug when I change them? Is there any trick
for change the spark plug on Feb/1997 Camry? Where do
I find step by step for changing the spark plug?

Thanks  Tom
Answer
Fill the  form out to get your question answered
Question 2-20
username=mark
VehicleType=84 toyota terdcell 4wd
VehicleAge=18
DistanceTravelled=???????
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=oz
State=nsw
Subject=carby    & wiring system
comment=i got this 84 tercell 4wd of me mate.told me the motor was
blown.(he’s a builder)anyway,i found the AM1 60amp fuse(fusible link)in the
f/box under the bonnet was melted.ive rewired it into the spare next to
it.now have ign.lights.tried turning motor by hand(ratchet)& would only go
3/4 turn & lock up,both ways.now i used the key.1st try was the same
thing,3/4 turn & lock up.so i turned it back & give it another kick & this
time it kept winding over,but it wont fire.have checked points & plugs,spark
on all.(while i had the plugs out i scraped the tops of the pistons & 2&3
had this white creamy stuff,like savlon.i can see the fuel mist from the
jets & when you open the carby(butterfly thingy)there’s a pool of fuel in
the bottom.where the fuel line connects to the carby through that hollow
bolt,is that where the needle & seat should be?it’s empty now.the carby’s
pretty dirty down the throat.the cars been parked for about 12 months.before
that it had electrical problems,i think it burnt out 2 dizzy’s(new one
now).also,the harness coming from the f/box is in 2,1 goes to bat.& alt,the
other goes round the bat.& across behind the h/light,here a heavy white,red
wire & normal green,blue pink,dark blue wires branch’s off.but on mine
the’ve been cut about 3″s along.i can’t find any wires to match them or
conections missing wires.in all,the motors turning freely(no unusual
noises),there’s spark,electricals seem fine,new bat.,fuels cumming into the
carby(misting),but its not firing.is the fuel in the bottom flooding it,or
can u suggest what else it could be? i could use a nudge in the right
direction.thanks.mark.

Answer
You sent your question 7 times once is enough
Question 2-21
username=Bill Anderson
VehicleType=toyota camry efi
VehicleAge=
DistanceTravelled=200000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland

Subject=Fuel problem
comment=Hi Darren, My question is about my wifes toyota camry 1987 model
E.F.I.. It started missing badly at low revs and gradually got worse. I
replaced all spark plugs and fuel filter. No change. I then replaced fuel
pump. No change. Could it be the injectors and if so how big a job is it to
pull them apart and clean them. I am a fitter and turner by trade so I don`t
mind getting my hands dirty. Thanks
Answer
Yes it maybe a suspect fuel injector but what about an air leak
Spray some CRC around the inlet manifold just to make sure its not leaking
vacuum
As for the injectors they may need to be ultrasonic cleaned but measured
before and after
Question 2-22
username=May
VehicleType=VW Golf GL 1995 make (purchased early 1996)
VehicleAge=approx 6 yrs
DistanceTravelled=39,000 kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW
Subject=Coolant Problems
comment=Hi there Darren,
I have had my car sent in for a major service (at a VW centre) which
included a flush out for the coolant approx. 2.5 months ago (circa February
2002).  A few days ago, the coolant light came on indicating it was
overheating.  However, the car has just been started not long ago and the
heat gauge is still in the cool section (far left of the gauge rising
slowly).  The car was driven for the next 15 mins where the gauge finally
settled in the centre like it normally does.  Since then the light has not
switched on.  Concerned I decided to check it out.

Upon opening the coolant resevoir, I found the once blue-green coolant is
now a milky orange.  I consulted VW service who were less than helpful and
they said it was ‘normal’.  I am still concerned with it though since I have
heard read that it isn’t a good sign to have the liquid milky.  Should I
take the car back for another clean?

Also, I have been unable to make a visual inspection whether the coolant
needs topping up.  I used to be able to see the coolant between the “Min &
Max” when the engine is cooled.  However, the casing is now opaque.

Am I able to mix coolants? (blue with green? which are available on the
market).  Some swear never to mix them and to return to VW for coolant.
Others say, as long as the additive is similar as that stated in the manual
it’s fine; be it blue or green in colour.

I would appreciate some help as I have been unable to get any assistance and
have been worrying about this.  Thank you very much for your time and I will
be looking forward to your reply. :)

Answer
May your question is one very valid to ask

Coolant is under no circumstances to be mix with any other coolant family or brand
Neither should the coolant ever require topping up
The fact that you see coolant with a milky appearance is to me setting off
the alarms bells
IT IS NOT NORMAL FOR THE COOLANT TO SHOW ANY SIGNS OF A MILKY SUBSTANCE
YOU NEED TO TAKE THE VEHICLE BACK TO THE DEALER ASAP

May try to do this as soon as you can, please use the same e-mail and let me
know how you get on
Also let me know the dealer
Question 2-23
username=Wayne Constable
VehicleType=Mitsubishi TN Magna Wagon
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=310,000Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW
Subject=Lack of power when accelerating
comment=Hi Darren,
I have a 1988 TN Magna automatic carbi wagon which has a lack of power when
under load or accelerating. So far I have run a carbi kit through the carbi,
completely cleaned the carbi, checked the secondary stage by placing a
rubber tube on it and gently applying a vacume (seems to work), replaced the
catalytic converter (incase it was blocked), had the auomatic transnission
checked. I’m completely stumped.
Hope you can suggest what next?
regards
Wayne.
Answer
Yes but are the secondary stage operating because the same thing happen to me
Conclusion
Hi Darren,
Thank you for your email, you were right it was the secondary stage (lack of
vacume). I replaceed the vacume hose, it had a minute crack. My car now goes
like a rocket.
Regards
Wayne Constable
Question 2-24
Hi, My car is a 1996 BMW 328I
I browsed thru your answer and was convinced that you are a good mechanic.
I have a problem with my car, my A/C is not blowing cold air anymore,
the relays and fuses are good and when you switch the A/C on it will
change the amount of air blow from the vents and can hear sound that it
is engaging the ac. I tried to re-charge the refrigerant but it seems
like it’s not accepting any.
I also have aproblem with noise, like a high pitch noise from the back
of the car, I can’t pinpoint the exact location but I am suspecting the
in tank fuel pump. if so, please advice on how to replace or fix a fuel
pump.
Thanks,
Jojo
Answer
Fill the form out like everybody else
Question 2-25
username=Justin Joubert
VehicleType=Ford Escort 1.8 GLi
VehicleAge=7
DistanceTravelled=108000 km
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng
Subject=Intermitant lack of power.
comment=Hi Darren,

Firstly great site. I just fixed my Dad’s Hyundai back brakes using advice
from your site. Thanks for that. The problem I have with my Escort is the
following. From about 90 000 km, the car started losing power intermittantly
once every other month. The problem would be experienced for a couple of
seconds, where the car would lose power (half power), as if fuel was being
restricted or the plugs were fowled. Anyway the problem has been experienced
more and more often, to the point, where the car permanently runs at half
power now. At start up the car runs smoothly for say 2 seconds before the
missing occurs, and while driving to get full power, if I need it, I turn my
ignition off and then on to get full power for 2 seconds before the car
reverts to half power. I initially checked out the fuel lines and filter for
blockages. No luck. Next I sent the car to a ford dealer. They said my spark
leads had high resistance, I replaced these, No luck. Next they said my
plugs were’nt the specified motocraft platinum tipped type (was using NGK
replacements) I replaced them, No luck. The next diagnosis was that the fuel
pump was seizing, I replaced this, no luck. Finally I replaced the DIS coil
and the problem was still there.

Finally by borrowing an oscilloscope from work, I probed all the actuator
wires and found that for some reason cylinders 2 and 3′s fuel injection
actuator trigger signals were’nt there, ie no fuel getting to cyl. 2 and 3.
The pulses are there at start up, but dissapear at the mystical 2 second
mark. Next I traced these signals to the EEC-IV computer, this is where they
are generated.

Here’s the funny thing. If I remove either spark lead 2 or lead 3 from the
DIS (no spark getting to these cylinders) the fuel injector pulses
reappeared. This does’nt make any sense to me.

I thought it might be that I have a slow or faulty HEGO (lambda) sensor, so
that when the car runs in a closed loop, the computer thinks the mixture is
way to rich (for some reason), and shuts off injector actuators 2 and 3, but
surely 1 and 4 would also be shut off?

The only other idea I have is that there are spikes on the primary side of
the DIS which are feeding back into the computer through the DIS 2 and 3
trigger wire, and nocking out the computer. Could this be a reason?

I would like to know, if you think it’s a sensor problem somewhere on the
car, ie an input into the computer is not there, so the injectors turn off,
or is it feedback into the computer which bombs out the signal, or is the
computer simply faulty? Computers for this car in South Africa are damn
expensive, so I need to be sure.

Cars have always been a hobby of mine, but at the moment I’m not enjoying
this hobby. its just too frustrating.

Thanks for your time and help in advance.

Justin Joubert.

Answer
Very Tricky question,  didn’t say whether the car engine check lamp was
coming on and I would try and retrieve some codes if there are any. Check
the resistance of the injectors,make sure all the grounds are in good
condition then replace the ECU..
Question 2-26
username=Michael Royle
VehicleType=Nissan (Datsun) Pulsar N10.
VehicleAge=21
DistanceTravelled=70,000 (?)
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
Subject=Lubrication
comment=Dear Sir,

I have an old Nissan Pulsar N10,getting rare now.My Mechanic was unsure of
the engine/trans combination,not having worked on one.I have yet to track
down a workshop manual.The trans grinds a bit,much like old Holden 3
speeds
do.I am not overly concerned at this but would like to protect it as best
I can for it’s remaining service life.It is an ’81 model with an old OHV
engine.I believe they are based on the old Japanese model Datsun Cherry.

My questions are:-1.Should I change the oil in the diff/drive shaft housing?
A later manual (for an ,87 model) says not to unless some kind of damage has
occurred.
2. Is the gearbox integral with the engine oil sump (such as in the old
mini)? I heard somewhere this may be the case, or is it just part of the
same diff/drive shaft housing?What type of engine oil would
you recommend in either case?
Thanks.
Answer
1, it would not hurt to change the diff oil
2, the gearbox does not use the oil in the engine
3, if you need a manual try this site http://web.archive.org/web/20031003011126/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html

Where ever you purchase oil they will advise or should advise what to use
Question 2-27
username=stephen
VehicleType=holden VT commodore
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=160000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=South Australia
Subject=service warning
comment=Please help,
I have just upgraded fron a 1985 VK commodore to a newer 1998 VT commodore.
The car is due for a 160000 km service and the electronic odometer flashes
up with a service warning each time i start the car. I do all my services at
home and would like to stop/reset the service warning indicator
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Stephen Bass
Answer
You will need to take the vehicle to the dealer to get it reset
Modern tech this is what to expect
Question 2-28
username=Susan Carter
VehicleType=Holden Astra
VehicleAge=12
DistanceTravelled=284,000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Queensland
Subject=Oil Light and Hot Engine
comment=Hi Darren,
Please HELP!
My Holden ASTRA (1989) has been a brilliant car, but I have a problem that I
need solved.   Has been running reaaly well until today when the Oil light
came on.  I had only put oil in 2 days ago, so checked it anyway.  It seemed
fine so, off i wnet again.  The oil light isnt staying on all the time, just
going on and off.  When i got to my destination, the engine was red hot.
Have had 3 different theories on this and have no idea how i can fix it as
quickly as possible..  I noticed when going up hills, the car didnt seem to
have as much “guts” as normal and I had to change to a lower gear.   I’m
concerned about what damage this will cause the engine if i drive anywhere.
Hope you can help.

REGARDS,
SUSAN
Answer
Susan this problem is best to be sorted out by your local garage as it seems
like the sooner the better I even suggest getting it towed

FAQ 1,

1, Question
Battery Light
What does it mean when the red light comes on with a battery symbol inside the light?
Answer
The most common reason  is   the battery is not getting any charge. This will cause the battery to run flat and finally prevent the engine to run.
Remedy
If we ever see the red battery light come on,  this means we need to do something ASAP; like have a mechanic or auto electrician attend to the problem.

2, Question

Jump Starting
If I have an EFI vehicle, can I jump start another vehicle?

Answer

Yes but  follow the correct procedure

Remedy

Please take caution if you must jump start another vehicle, as there are dangers involved in this activity.

3, Question
Brake Shudder
I notice that when I apply the brakes the steering wheel shudders, does this mean that I need a front end alignment?
Answer
Yes and No. Here is a good reason to have the vehicle inspected for loose tie rod ends, front disc or drum brakes for wear, also the shockers . The most important thing is that by inspecting the front end it should be easy to determine what is the cause.

Remedy
Brake shudder is best rectified as soon as possible, as any loose components found in the front end may cause damage to other components that may lead to a more expensive repair bill.

4, Question
Suspect Throttle Positioner Switch
My 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee (V8, 50,000 miles) stalls at start up approximately
2 times per week. If you keep your foot on the gas it will stay running.
The second you take your foot off, it stalls. This has been occurring for
approximately 4-5 weeks now. I brought it in to my mechanic and he cleaned
the “idle/air controller”???? and adjusted the throttle plate. A week later
it happened again. It is very frustrating, you never know if you can count
on your vehicle starting. The vehicle has been towed twice already. I also
used a bottle of dry gas, thinking water in the fuel may the problem, no
luck. Please help.

Answer
OK I take it, that its been serviced and tune on a regular basis ?
Did your mechanic check the fault codes ?
Sometimes the cold start injector may be playing up or the cold start program
either way you need to see this activity on the screen
(At a service centre where a computer will compare the information to your vehicles computer)
on a cold start.
Sometimes a long run may settle the problem

5, Question
Overheating!
I have a ’93 ply. acclaim with a 4cyl.,size I don’t know. my problem is it over heats,I change the thermostat and the sensor that control the fan, I don’t think it is the water pump.when it over heats the gauge is max.out then if I go around a corner with it showing hot the gauge drops to the 1/4 mark.I can park it running at a engine speed faster then idle and it doesn’t over heat.what do you suggest?
Answer
Ok when does it overheat!
At idle!
Slow driving!
Highway!
With the Air On!
I have to say that overheating can trick us all.
I recently had a vehicle overheating an found the radiator to be blocked and while I’m on this subject all radiators are best to be serviced every 100,000Kms or every 5years.
I would start with the above.

6, Question
Oil Leaking
I have a 1994 Nissan Altima that has been leaking oil. I know that it can damage me engine if there is no oil. What do think is wrong?
Answer
I think the best thing to do is get the engine steamed cleaned to find out where the oil is leaking. Once you know where it is leaking, the next step is get 3 quotes as it maybe a costly repair.Let me know how you get on and where the oil is leaking.

7, Question
Missing on take off suspect ignition system
I have owned the 1994 Mercury Grand Marquis (V-8) for just over a year and have loved it. I have just begin noticing that there is a vibration like a  washboard when accelerating from a stop. I have checked the transmission  fluid and it is fine. I need suggestions as I am on a very limited budget and  the sole support of my family. Thanks for any help or suggestions you can give.
Answer
This does not sound good, does it only vibrate when taking off from the lights?  Is it hard to start in the morning?  When was the last time you had the vehicle tuned?  I would start by getting the ignition leads tested.  Leads are not that expensive but even new leads need to be tested as some makers don’t control the quality
Remedy
Check Spark plug leads and change if necessary, and at the same it won’t hurt to change the spark plugs.

8, Question
Shudder When Braking
I have a 1997 Eagle Talon that I bought used with 16500 miles on it and I   have had the vehicle about 2 years now. My concern is this I have had this   problem supposedly fixed twice now as it was diagnosed as being the rotors   which were resurfaced instead of being replaced. I was wondering if you thought this was the problem (rotors) or if you thought it was something else entirely like a suspension problem? I would like to know if you could help  before I invest another 1500.00 dollars for the wrong thing to be replaced. This only happens when I depress the brake pedal to come to a complete stop or slow down and when I do my whole steering wheel shakes.
Answer
OK I would have started with the rotors but at the same time checking the tie rods for wear.
What does your mechanic say about the tie rods?
Also last but not least what condition are the shockers in. Shockers even new shockers can become faulty.
9, Question
Hyundai Tiburon Problems
I bought a 1998 Hyundai Tiburon in Aug 1998. My check engine light keeps
coming on then my car starts to stall out then all at once it gets a great
“surge” of power and takes off. These “dealers” changed the spark plugs and
wires 3 times in about 6 months. The 4th visit they put in gas treatment and
now I get terrible fuel mileage. Could thegas treatment affect my car? and
what could this surge be? my paint is also peeling and my mags are shot. My
tires wont hold air, except for a day or two. Please help I’m frustrated.

Answer
Q Engine Check Light
It should only come on if there is a problem in the EFI program or if the
computer itself faulty with a dry solder joint.
Q Starts to Stall
If it starts to stall when cold this problem maybe in the cold start
program, and this should be picked up by accessing the fault codes
Q Dealer has attended the problems 4 times
Are you able to try another dealer or go higher
Q Poor Fuel mileage
How many miles are on the vehicle now, if its done a hard 70,000 miles, then
the injectors may require a ultra sonic clean
Q Gas treatment effects
Gas treatments are best to be added when the tank is full
The only treatment that I reckon is any good is the genuine Toyota fuel
treatment
Q The surge
I can only assume the throttle positioner switch maybe dirty, or the EFI
codes may tell the story
Q Paint peeling off
Tires won’t hold air
Are they the correct wheels for the car
In conclusion I would write a letter to Hyundai Head Office,and list all the
problems and ask if they can help in any way.
In all fairness Hyundai was the first company to make it possible for young
people to afford a new vehicle at a low cost.
A new vehicle will always be better than a second hand vehicle with 100,000 miles.

10, Question
Pinging
87 ford bronco 2 Could you please tell me what the fuel presure should be for a
2.9 fuel injected engine at the intake . im getting a high sounding rattle when
i accelerate hard

Answer
This sounds very much like the engine is pinging, so the timing is too far
advanced. The ignition timing requires adjusting, in this case it needs to
be retarded.

11, Question
Gas door
Hi.  We have a 1997 Toyota Camrt LE, and we have a problem.  The gas door
is closed and the gas door release button will not open it.  Also,
unfortunately, the car is out of gas.  We would like to be able to open it at
our home without having to try to drive to a mechanic who would be several
miles away.  Can you help?  Is there another way to open the gas door?

Answer
This sounds urgent, try to push on the gas door as you pull on  the lever.
Using a rag around the a large flat knife try to open the door, it should
take much to open the door.
Thanks for your advice.  We followed it and did get the gas door open.  It
appears that the latch is not working to open it, so we will have it
officially repaired.  Thanks for your response.

12, Question
Cam Belt
I have a 1994 Hyundai Elantra with 76,000 miles.  It wasn’t having any
problems and then one day It died out when I tried to pull it out ot a gas
station.  I couldn’t start it….sounded like battery was dead.  I had it
towed to a shop, but I think they blew a hole in a piston because they kept
trying to start it.  They first told me it was the ignition module and then
3
days later they told me that it was my timing belt that caused it.  They
wouldn’t fix it unless I gave them $3900 for a new engine.  I think they
took
advantage of me because I am a woman.  Could you tell me what would cause a
hole in the piston?  My warranty insurance would cover this if I knew the
real reason.  The mechanic billed my warranty insurance for a water pump
and
labor but never did any work on my car.  He pulled my engine out and a
bunch
of parts and put it all in the trunk of my car along with the water pump.
Other mechanic didn’t want to look at it because parts were everywhere.
HELP
any suggestions??

Thank you.
Cheryl
Answer
Hi Cheryl,

It sounds like the cam  belt snapped, therefore it caused the valves to
damage the pistons.
This is common on some bad engines designs.
It seems like the mechanic has tried he best by pointing to the ignition
module but then found a broken timing belt.
No I don’t think the mechanic took advantage of you because you are a women.
On some engines if the cam belt snaps it will cause the inlet or exhaust
valves to hit on the piston, and thus cause either the valves to bend, or
piston damage.
I think the best part of this story is that you were able to get a new
engine out of warranty.
Now there is a lesson behind all this, and that is where ever your vehicle
is serviced make sure the cam belt is replaced when required, in Australia
its every 70,000 – 90,000Kms so that would make it approx. 40,000 to 60,000
miles.

If you can could you send me an image in jpg and I’ll write down the
components.

13, Question
Brakes
I have a couple of questions about my 1991 Honda LS Integra:

1/ The brakes go soft in hot weather but are fine in the cool. Why might
this be?
2/  When I bought the car it didn’t have the “badge” or writing on the rear
boot panel just below the spoilery type looking thing. I didn’t realise it
should have been there until I saw other cars like it on the road. Do you
think it devalues the car not having the identity on the outside anywhere?
You comments would be appreciated!

Stephen Australia
Answer
1/The brakes going soft in the hot weather.
Without knowing the history, I recommend the following checks
Check rotor thickness for spec
Check that the calliper slides are not seized
Make sure if fitted with rear drums that the shoes are adjusted
Some very cheap disc pads may cause this problem
Brake fluid if its been in the system for more than 2 years, change it
All brake hoses should be checked for cracks and expansion

2/ The badge missing, I guess the most important thing is does the vehicle
have a compliance plate
in the engine bay area. If not it may look like the other models but ever so
slightly different.
Steven thankyou for 2 great questions I here anytime. I hope this will help you

Answer
Thanks Darren…the brakes question was a bit of a test for you…I had
them looked at and the master cylinder needed replacing…the explanation
was that when the fluid got warmer it became thinner and was getting past
the seal. When it was replaced the problem was fixed.

14, Question
Wiper Washers
I have a 1986 Peugeot 505, and am always having problems with my windshield
washers — there are four of them.  Invariably they get plugged up so that
only 1 or 2 work and so they squirt water over the roof, whereas the others
just dribble water out.  Do you have any handy ideas to keep the squirter
nozzles running properly?  I look forward to hearing from you.

Answer
Hi Gordon,
Ok ther are several ways to deal with this problem, the first is disconnect
the tube going to the jet and with compressed air blow into the jet and
re-aim if neccessary.
The second but as effective, carefully use a needle to poke into the washer
jet to release the blocked matter inside and re-aim if neccessary.
The third option is go down to the wreckers to purchase some second hand
washer.
Let me know how you get on.

15, Question
Noises
I have a Subaru GL wagon, 1983 model.  For a few years now there has been a
weird sound which seems to come from the front wheels.  It is like a
stretching or rubbing sound and appears to be present particulalry on hills
when turning and when the car is first used for the day.  The CV joints are
in appearently good order, and nothing else seems to be amiss.  What do you
think?
Regards,
Suby Ruby Australia
Answer
Well I would have started with the CV Joints, but if they are okay then we
need to look deeper, like checking all engine and transmission mounts. The
other day I had a customer with a similar problem, it being the plastic
cover worked loose and was rubbing on the tyre when turning.
I would start with make sure that all plastic covers are secure under the
vehicle
Let me know Suby Ruby

16, Question
Red Light
I learnt about the website on A current affairs yesterday. It is a
fantastic idea.
Lately my radio/clock will not work unless the car has been under the
sun. I have a 1993 Toyota corolla hatch. The red light with the battery
symbol is not showing. Is it a sign that the battery is running low?
Many thanks for your help.
Answer
Hi May-Lee,
If the red battery light is not showing, and the clock is not operating
check the following,
Check that all fuses are ok
Turn the ignition on and look for the red battery light, if no light, take
it to the auto elect
if the red light come on from time to time this means the charging system
requires attention asap
See how you go.

17, Question
Plugs Fouling
Subject: 1995 acura integra ls 1.8
i just changed my spark plugs and i found oil on two of my spark plugs.
what could be the problem please help.

Answer
Hi Gurley,
This doesn’t sound good, it may have a cracked oil ring or starting to burn oil
Change the plugs, and check them in 5000 kms, and see if they are still oily
if so you may consider hotter plugs.
I hope this helps
DGB

18, Question
Suspect injectors
Subject: help!!
Our small manual mtsubishi mirage has a problem,it is a 1997 model, the
problem is when the engine is cold, the driver cannot accellerate properly
or it is very slow at accellerating, could you give me some tips on why this
may be the case, thanks
Answer
Hi Bryce,
Its sounds like it needs a good tune.
Also if the vehicle has over 100,000 it maybe due to the injectors (if
fitted) requiring an ulta sonic clean
I hope this helps.
DGB

19, Question
Subject: Engine
Darren
I like your website! I have a question re my 1983 Toyota Van (Jap import -
Tarago equivalent) 1974cc Diesel Turbo motor. I have had this vehicle for 12
months. It has done 115,000k, about 20,000 in the last year.
Problem relates to sooty exhaust which includes “spitting” which makes a
polka dot mess on the rear of the van. It has also been down on power
particularly acceleration from standing. Also very smelly!
Treatment so far based on Toyota dealers referral to a diesel and injection
specialist, who I took the vehicle to twice:
1. First visit – replacement of the injectors. This resulted in a transitory
increase in power – didnt last long.
2. Showed vehicle to another “specialist” who suggested a new motor, this
based on a fairly superficial examination!..
3. Back to the first specialist who ran some tests which showed compression
to be good. Adjustment was made to reduce diesel intake and increase air,
this reducing the sooty output significantly. However still getting sooty
smoke when putting foot down and power is even less than before.
Any thoughts?

Answer
Hi Michael,

You may not agree with me but here it is.
Consider the following
I would be thinking of getting another reco engine.
But before you do that I would also consider the cost of getting another
vehicle, maybe not a diesel.
Diesels are very expensive and is the vehicle ok otherwise.
I did Australia Posts vehicles for a short time and they had Diesel Vans
They changed the vehicles over at 100,000 to reduce costs
As for the sooty rear I don’t really believe there is much anyone can do for
the long term.
Michael I hope I haven’t upset your day!!!!
See how you go
DGB

20, Question
Subject: Headlights
I have noticed that my headlights keep changing brightness. They go
bright and then they go dim and bright again. This keeps happening as I
am driving along. Can you tell me what it might be?
Thanks.

Answer
It sounds to me like its either a loose earth or one of the filaments are
faulty.
Try turning the lights on in the drive way with the engine running in park
with the hand brake on and wiggle the earth cable.
Try lightly tapping the headlamp to see if the lights go out, if they do it
may just be a faulty filament which means you may need another headlamp
globe.
Start there and see how you go

DGB

21, Question
Subject: Horn
Hi Darren,

I own a 1995 Hyundai Excel and am having some problems with the horn on my
car.  A few years ago it stopped working, and at the time had it fixed.
Recently I have started having problems again.  Sometimes it works, and
sometimes it doesn’t.  When it works, great, but when it doesn’t you just
here a small clicking sound from the steering wheel when you try to use it.
Is it just a loose connection behind the cover of the steering wheel, or
somewhere else, or is it something more sinister?

Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Regards
Lyn

Answer
Ok Lyn,

Try this:
First check all fuses to make sure they are not the cause
Start the engine in the drive way in park with the hand brake on
Press the horn while turning the wheel if it comes on you know its a bad
contact
If you press the horn and you can hear a faint noise, this may mean the
horn itself.
Try to find the horn and while someone is pressing the horn you tap the horn
to see if it will start operating
See how you go

DGB

22, Question
Subject: 1986 Ford Fairlane 4.0 EFI – Stalling

HI Darren,
Just got a verbal tip on your site. Looks good.
Here is a question for you. I hope you have some time to answer it.
My car has travelled 193,000 Km. When the engine has warmed up the oil
pressure lamp drop down to the lower end of the scale and flashes. At this
stage the engine starts to stall. This only occurs in drive or reverse (or 1
and 2 also), yep it is Auto. If I put the trans in neutral or Park it will
idle normally and oil pressure returns. If i put it back into drive or
reverse the engine revs start to range up and down. At night you can see
the
headlights dim and brighten. This all started appearing after my trans
slipped at take off from lights and thumped into gear. For a short time I
had some whining and rattling.
My mechanic looked at the car for me and said the trans was fine. The
rattle
was a cover over the manifold or something that was loose. The stalling
problem has been looked at several times by the mechanic who said he also
took it to a friend(specialist) and queried a Ford Dealer. The problem
they
say is the engine runs with crankcase pressure(inherent design problem
with
the Fairlane and not the falcon) and that any leak through a seal, loose
dipstick or anything will cause it to run rough. I will also add here that
the vehicle drives very well once your onto the accelerator or even
coasting
at speed. Never had a high speed stall. Always at 5km/h or less.
I have been told the only solution is live with it, rebuild the engine or
get a reco. Note this same mechanic also did the head gasket for me about
two months prior.

Hope you can help,
Regards,

Answer
Hi Mark,

Ok it sounds like your base idle is the problem
The oil pressure in according to revs
The lights will dim up and down on low revs
Your problem is the RPM revs per minute are not enough in drive.
Its a trade off on an older vehicle because you may encounter the vehicle
creeping at lights.
The RPM at idle should be around 850-950 RPM
I wish you all the best, I hope this helps

23, Question
Subject: starter motor  problems…not much time left….help?
my problem is that when I turn the key not a darn thing happens…I’ve checked the grounds from the battery, the starter, and I’ve checked the connections on the starter relay…they all seem ok.
what else is there? Nothing happens at all after I’ve checked all of those already, I’ve even tried jumping circuits on the relay..and it just clicks…Help soon..I’m waiting..and thanx.
This a common problem, you need to check the fuseable link near the battery
You need to have some one in the vehicle with the ignition on and wiggle all the main loomsAlso you will need to check for power using a test light.Look for corroded leads around the battery
Wiggle all main leads

See how you go

DGB

23, Question
Wet Patch Oil? Trans Fluid? Water?
I have a 10/95 TS Magna SE V6 with power steering, antilock brakes etc.
Today I noticed a rather large fresh wet patch directly behind the right
front tyre on the wall of the arch separating the tyre from the engine.
I’m a bit concerned about the safety aspect (my safety and the potential
damage to the car too). The financial side ‘should’ be ok as I bought it
from a large caryard only last week.
If you could email me, I’d really appreciate it
Cheers
Wazz

Answer
Hi Warren,
If its clean water it could just be the airconditioning.
If its oil red
Or oil black it requires urgent attention
What colour is the fluid?

DGB

24, Question
Twin Cam Engines!
Hello Darren
I was told that you may be able to help me with a question I have
regarding cars.
I am looking to buy a car soon and was wondering if you could tell me about
‘Fuel Injection’ and ‘Twin Cam’ engines?
All I know is that they increase the cars engine performance and perhaps
fuel economy? but I am actually interested in knowing the functional aspect of each.
Do all modern cars automatically have fuel injection these days?
What ever you can offer as an expanation I would be grateful.
Would you mind telling me why you offer this free information service?
I am rather curious?  (Steve  gave me your email address and said you
may be able to help with my query)
Thankyou very much
Lise

Answer
Hi Lise,

The fuel injection is nearly a standard item to support constant fuel
economy
The twin cam is another component that supports fuel economy
The above sound great when you buy a new vehicle, but they raise the price
of servicing the vehicle.
Because I know!
Let me know what car your thinking of buying!
DGB
25, Question
Subject: Gas problems

We have a problem with our gas. Our car conks out everytime we turn a
corner. My husband thinks that it is the converters and we want to be sure
when we go to get it fixed.
Regards,
:-) Magalie
Answer
Hi Magalie,
I can’t see that it would be a gas problem because gas is under pressure.
I would be looking for a loose connection under the bonnet, around the
engine bay area.
See how you go
DGB

26, Question
TPS (Throttle Positioner Switch
Dear Sir,
i have a Mitsubishi Lancer Glxi 1992 model. My problem is during traffic jams
where there is minimal stop and go. From a complete stop, i have to accelerate
higher in order not to stall the engine. what part / system of the engine
should i have it checked? it is an Electonic fuel injection. how do they tune
this things?

Don

Answer
Hi Don,
You need to find a good mechanic that will inspect the TPS
Thats the throttle positioner switch to make sure its clean at the same time
calibrate base idle.
You are best to allow a fuel injection specialist perform this rectification
See how you go

DGB

27, Question
Subject: 1984 honda prelude cruising speed problem
Hi darren,
i have a 1984 honda prelude (5 spd manual, owned for 7+ years and self basic
maintenance) that’s been having a stuttering problem when it’s at cruising
speed.
for example,  at either 20,30,40,50,60,70,80,90,100 km/h,  as long as i’m
‘just’ stepping on enough gas to maintain any speed, the car coughs and
stutters. but when i step on more gas, the problem is gone.
i’ve changed spark plugs, spark leads, rotor, and spray those carby
cleaners
(heaps!) into my carbies.
the problem normally comes after the auto-choke is off…. but on occasion
has happened when the auto-choke is still on.
another interesting note is that i can sometimes redline the car to 6000
rpm, the problem would go away.. sometimes it’s cured for a few days..
sometimes for a few hours only ..
i’ve also tried a few bottles of fuel addictives that cleans the fuel
systems etc.. doesn’t seem to help.
from my own diagnosis, there doesn’t appear to be any vaccum leak in the
system. (using a tube to my ear and other end to spot any leakages around
the carby + vaccum tubes)
i’ve read a bit on the newsgroups that the problem could possibly point to
the fuel pump? but does the above symptoms that i’ve mentioned match a
fuel
pump problem?
the problem comes and goes.. and has been bugging me for years…. it just
keeps coming back.  any suggestions on what else i should try? the hard
thing is that it’s a intermittent problem and i have no idea why high
revving it would solve the problem but it comes back!

best regards,
vincent

Answer
Hi Vincent,

I understand you have put the fuel additive in the carby, may I suggest
getting the carby overhauled as this little bugger seems to be playing down
there.
Or at least drive past a fuel specialist to confirm that the carby is
causing this event.
See how you go

DGB

thanks for responding so promptly darren.
so from what i’ve told you,  u think the problem points to the carby?
(it’s
actual a kei-hin dual sidedraft carby), i’ve balanced it before with those
suction strength devices. most mechanic wouldn’t even dare to touch a dual
carby system….
who would classify as a fuel specialist?

Answer
Do you live in Melbourne if so Wilsons are the only people I’d recommend
If you are not in Melbourne arrange to speak with him first and get them
sent of
Phone No 9347 3036
Wilson Carburettor Service
110 Queensberry Street
CARLTON VIC 3053
Vincent they are costly but I trust them because we got a fleet of jaguars
sidedraft carbies done and they were different vehicles..

28, Question
Subject: WHY WONT MY CAR IDLE RIGHT?
Darren,

My wife has recently gone back to work so it was time for us to buy a second car for me run around in as she uses the family car. We purchased a 1977 (3K-C engine) Toyota Corolla coup manual which is very clean and straight. Form the time we picked the car up the engine idled roughed and stalled when the headlights were switched on, especially when high-beams were applied. The exhaust sounds as if the engine is miss firing even when headlights are ‘not’ on, but the engine appears to be idling relatively smooth. It blows a little smoke on start up, but does not burn oil, cold starts are O.K, but warm starts are bit harder, and it also has an occasional flat spot on acceleration. The car is garaged at the moment as I am scared it will leave me stranded.

At this stage I have replaced plugs and points, overhauled the carbie and replaced the ignition coil, set point gap, adjusted carbie, checked valve clearance, and set engine timing all to manufactures recommendations to no avail. When setting engine idle on the carbie, manufacturer recommends it be set at 750-800 RPM, and then adjust mixture screw until smooth idle is achieved. I find the engine cannot maintain idle at this RPM, and mixture adjustment does not help. The lowest RPM I can set the engine with out stalling is at 1200 RPM, but this does not eliminate the rough idle or the miss-firing sound of the exhaust. Out of chance I removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and found combusting air (like exhaust air) coming out of the rocker cover, when engine speed is increased the air pressure drops, is this normal?

Can you please give some direction to what the problem or problem’s could be, I don’t want to take to a mechanic just yet as I cannot afford any major works should it be require.

Thank you for your support.

Kind regards

Nev

Answer
Hi Nev,
When you did the tune up did you change the condensor?
if not then change it.
Now this sounds very similar to a vehicle I had,
You need to establish the actual compression of each cylinder, they should be around 150 psi and not outside 30 psi of each other.
When the engine is worm idling in park or with the handbrake on
Lift the bonnet and carefully pour water along the inlet manifold if it sounds like its sucking water or stalls then I suspect a leaking manifold

Start there

DGB

29, Question
Subject Electric Windows
Please help
I drive a 1979 SL/E VB Commodore.
The switch ( 4 switch ) for the elecric windows which is found on the
middle console needs replacing.
I’m trying to find a retailer who will sell me just the switch at a
reasonable price.
The people I’ve gone to want to sell it to me for minimum $230-00
changeover.
Can you suggest some retailers, and also what price is realistic !
I just need the switch.

Answer
Hi Alice,

Yes I agree with you they are very very expensive, I might try to get your
switch repaired now this may require a bit of calling around

Also try WW Automotive Electrical Services
W & W Automotive Electrical
59 Keys Road (Unit 10)
MOORABBIN VIC 3189
Ask for Bill 9555 9186
Even if they or your local Auto elect can make an addition switch to bypass
the faulty one.
Alice I hope this helps you

30, Question
Subject: Magna 86 Cold Start problem
Darren,
Hi, I have an 86 Magna, and when I start it from cold and push the
accelerator the car stops, I only have to touch the accelerator lightly and
the car still stops.  Also after I go to drive with it the car seems to
struggle to get going like there is no power or the fuel is not getting
through properly.  Can you help?

Thankyou Benita

Answer
Hi Benita,

Its a real pain and dangerous when that happens, its sounds like its in the
fuel system
You will need to see a fuel specialist
If your local
Carburettors To Go
356 Lower Dandenong Road (Unit 6 (Cnr Boundary Rd)
BRAESIDE VIC 3195
Speak to John 03 587 7000
Other than that the fuel system will need attention

I hope this has helped you.
31, Question
Water problems
Dear Darren
I think I’m in the middle of a nightmare!!! My parents are retired and have a problem with their car. They are convinced that they will be ripped-off at every turn & therefore dad is trying to fix his own car!!!!
My dad has a 1980 model Chrysler Sigma. It was leaking water inside through the heater so they had it replaced. Cost $600.
Once they got it back, it was leaking water from somewhere in the engine. They had the “wells” (dad’s english is not too good and this is what I think he is saying!!) changed. There are three of them from what I gather. Cost $150
Still leaking water!!! He mixed some kind of “sealent” in to the water and it stopped leaking!!!
However, the plot thickens!!!
He had a new 2.6 litre motor put in 6 years ago. They never put a overflow “thing” on the radiator. When he had the “wells” changed, the guy put an old coke bottle in to act as this overflow thing with a new radiator cap!!!
Once the leaking stopped, when the car started to warm up, the gauge inside would go to red and then suddenly drop. When dad opened the bonnet, there was water everywhere!!
He has now taken the bottle out, put a new radiator cap on, replaced the thermostate and the same thing is still happening.
Please help me I’m going crazy!!! None of us know anything about cars, let alone my dad!!!
Can you recommend someone reputable in the Hopper Crossing/Werribee area!!

What should we do!! And don’t say take the car to the tip as I have already suggested this & it will only happen over my dad’s dead body!!!
I look forward to your reply.

Tina

Answer
Hi Tina,
I’m very sorry to hear this,
Ok we got the
Heater core replaced at $600 they are costly because of the time it takes
Welsh plugs replaced at $150 not bad
The stop leak is very temp
New thermostat the correct type we hope
New Radiator cap
I like the sigma there a good little car, now it still sounds like we have a problem with the headgasket, now before we go ahead we must qualify this problem
Below are two companies that are very good at what they do
RL Walker
Ask for Rob
8 Carmen Street
DANDENONG VIC 3175
9791 2549
If you need the vehicle transported alot cheaper than the Auto Club  then try JP Car Transport 0418 567 034
Now I know a very good place that you can go and that is
Ken Farmer engineering ask for Grant
Ken Farmer (Vic) P/L
227A Nepean Highway
GARDENVALE VIC 3185
9596 1356
Tina I know this is not in your location but I also know the standard of work that these workshops produce, and its a high standard.
I hope this helps
DGB

32, Question
Subject: Problems when cold
Our small manual mtsubishi mirage has a problem,it is a 1997 model, the
problem is when the engine is cold, the driver cannot accellerate properly
or it is very slow at accellerating, could you give me some tips on why this
may be the case, thanks

Answer
Hi Bryce,
Its sounds like it needs a good tune.
Also if the vehicle has over 100,000 it maybe due to the injectors (if
fitted) requiring an ulta sonic clean
I hope this helps.

33, Question
Subject Sooty exhaust Diesel
Darren

I like your website! I have a question re my 1983 Toyota Van (Jap import -
Tarago equivalent) 1974cc Diesel Turbo motor. I have had this vehicle for 12
months. It has done 115,000k, about 20,000 in the last year.

Problem relates to sooty exhaust which includes “spitting” which makes a
polka dot mess on the rear of the van. It has also been down on power
particularly acceleration from standing. Also very smelly!

Treatment so far based on Toyota dealers referral to a diesel and
injection
specialist, who I took the vehicle to twice:

1. First visit – replacement of the injectors. This resulted in a
transitory
increase in power – didnt last long.
2. Showed vehicle to another “specialist” who suggested a new motor, this
based on a fairly superficial examination!..
3. Back to the first specialist who ran some tests which showed
compression
to be good. Adjustment was made to reduce diesel intake and increase air,
this reducing the sooty output significantly. However still getting sooty
smoke when putting foot down and power is even less than before.

Any thoughts?

Answer
Hi Michael,

You may not agree with me but here it is.
Consider the following
I would be thinking of getting another reco engine.
But before you do that I would also consider the cost of getting another
vehicle, maybe not a diesel.
Diesels are very expensive and is the vehicle ok otherwise.
I did Aussie Posts vehicles for a short time and they had Diesel Vans
They changed the vehicles over at 100,000 to reduce costs
As for the sooty rear I don’t really believe there is much anyone can do for
the long term.
Michael I hope I haven’t upset your day!!!!
See how you go

34, Question
Subject: Headlights

I have noticed that my headlights keep changing brightness. They go
bright and then they go dim and bright again. This keeps happening as I
am driving along. Can you tell me what it might be?

Thanks.

Answer
It sounds to me like its either a loose earth or one of the filaments are faulty.
Try turning the lights on in the drive way with the engine running in park
with the hand brake on and wiggle the earth cable.
Try lightly tapping the headlamp to see if the lights go out, if they do it
may just be a faulty filament which means you may need another headlamp globe.
Start there and see how you go
35, Question
Rear Lights
Hi,
My back-up lights on my 1997 Toyota Camry are not working.  Both bulbs are
fine, I replaced them, but they looked OK.  I checked the fuse for the
back-up lights and it is also fine.  What else could be wrong?  I’d like to fix it myself?
Also, my timing belt is possibly clicking and even if not, is due to be
replaced- I’m at 71,000- do I really need to go to a dealer for that work?
I don’t trust them.  I watch anyone who touches my car, but that job looks
to be long.  Even if I watched, I’m not sure I could tell if they did
anything wrong.  Any advise on that?  Thank you for your consideration of
my questions.
Lynda

Answer
Hi Lynda,

The reverse lights !
If you have checked the fuses with a test light and tested the reverse
globes and they are ok then this leads to the power going to the reverse
light switch and power going from the switch to the rear light assembly.
Don’t forget about the earth connection around the rear assembly make sure
its ok.
The Cam belt on a 97 is a long painful job, one that I would leave to a good
mechanic.
I did one one the other day it took me about 4 hours.
If you live in or around Melbourne I could give you names of good mechanics.
See how you go, I hope this helps!
DGB
36,Question
Subject: 92 eagle talon fuel system
I have a 92 eagle talon that will start and then immediately die I can keep it running if i pump the gas vigorously. I changed the fuel filter but no change I think it is the fuel pump. I am writing to ask you were the fuel pressure gauge connects to the fuel system and what the fuel pressure specs are. Thank you for your time. The talon has the 2.0 liter twin cam 16 valve.
ron
Answer
Hi Ron the fact that the engine starts means your getting enough pressure, its sounds more like the cold start program, or the TPS throttle positioner switch.
I would even be looking at the injectors to make sure they are in good order and needing ultra sonic cleaning.
I would contact a fuel specialist to get the exhaust gas levels measured this way you will see where the culprit is hiding.
DGB

37,Question
Subject: 1993 Hyundai Elantra – Cam Belt/Timing Belt
Hi
My name is Moses from Northern CA. I own a 1993
Hyundai Elantra which has 66K miles. I’m know I’m due
for a timing belt change, but what else should I get
done @ the same time? A/C belt, Alternator belt, P/S
belt, water pump?

I also need to know whether I would need the tensioner
and idler replaced since when going up a hill I hear
this cracking noise from the timing belt area. I’ve
been told that I could be the tensioner or idler.
What do you think? Thanks.

Moses

Answer
Hi Moses,

The timing belt is very important because if it breaks it will damage the
engine’
as for any of the fan belts your mechanic should be able to see if they need
changing as well as the tensioner.
All the best

Darren Gow-Brown
38,Question
Subject: Vibration 92 VP Commodore
Dear Mr Gow-Brown,
I live in Western Sydney and I own a 1992 Auto VP ‘S’ pack Commodore Ute
which has developed a shudder during certain speeds, over the past 18
months. This vibration/shudder would only occur between 80 – 90 Kph and
again at 105-110 Kph. The car runs smoothly just generally driving around
town. I have taken the car to numerous mechanics (at least 5) who have tried
various repairs/methods.
I bought 4 new tyres last month and magically the shudders disappeared.
However, just as mystically, whilst driving along the freeway the other
day, the shudders started again. This time they are a bit more erratic, say
at any speed between 80 & 110. The car seems to lose some HP as well whilst
shuddering. It is possible to accelerate or decelerate to stop the
vibrations. Is it something to do with my wheels ? Have I thrown a weight
off one of my mag wheels ? This is strange because the old tyres caused the
same vibrations even after a wheel alignment and balance.
To help you with narrowing down the culprit for this annoying phenomenon,
this is the list of things replaced or repaired in the car since April this year:
Part Work Done
Leads Replaced
Fuel Filter Replaced
Spark Plugs Replaced
Oil Filter Replaced
Fan Belt Replaced
Transmission Checked for Torque Converter Lock out (nothing found there)
Uni joints(front & rear)Replaced
Tail Shaft Balanced
Tyres (old) Balanced & Aligned twice
Tyres (all 4) Replaced
Transmission Lube and Gasket change (metal shavings were found in pan)

Please help me because I am running out of patience AND money !!

Kind regards,
Donna

Answer
Hi Donna,

This vibration is a tough one to pick on the net, but I will give you a few
directions to follow.
I would start with the shockers, but make sure if who ever says the shockers
are faulty ask if they can prove a remedy.
The mag tyres, Donna you are going to hate me for saying this but as much as
love the look of mag wheels they maybe part of the problem if they are out
of round or out of balance, if the wheels continue to run out of balance
then you need to look at and around the shochers, as well as the stabilizer
D bushers and link bushers,lower control arm bushers and Lower ball joints

I know there is alot to check but you will be happy will the vehicle runs
smooth.
Now just one last thing, its also possible that the timing chain may also be
a problem, if its worn it may cause a shudder down the drive line.

Donna all the best
And please let me know how you get on

DGB
39,Question
Subject: brake light/noise

I have a 95 Nissan Altima and my brake light just came on the other day
and it is the light that usually comes on when my parking brake is on.
It is on all the time now. That light has come on and now there is a
noise that my car is making like a rubbing of metal (?) towards the
front of my car. I check the brake fluid and it is not needing the
fluid. What do you think it is?

Answer
Hi Leticia,
Sorry for taking so long, now by reading the above problem and it soulds
like the front disc pads maybe worn
On some vehicles a wear indicator is design to alert the driver when the brakes are low.
I would have the brake inspected asap
This will not stop you from getting about three quotes to make sure your paying a fair cost.
DGB
40,Question
Subject: 1965 Dodge Polara It started with a rattle
I am the proud new owner of a 1965 Dodge Polara. It has a new
alternator, new regulator, all fluids are topped up and it’s running fine.
About two days ago, it started rattling under the hood. It sounds almost
like something is rubbing. I checked the belts and hoses, and I don’t see
anything. Now, I don’t really know a lot about cars.
It has been stalling more often than usual, should I just set the revs?
(I do know how to do that).
I appreciate any advice that you can give me.

Thanks, Tracy
Answer
Hi Tracy,

Firstly I wish I could came down and take a drive, can you send an image of you and the Dodge,
I’ve got a 1964 Karman Ghia.
Now to answer your question if the idle is low say under 900 rpm then you
may be experiencing a (too low rev rattle) problem
Now this may be difficult to describe how to adjust the carby, so I highly
recommend to take the show car to the local garage
and just ask the mechanic to raise the idle and at the same time ask them if
the vehicle is due for a tune up.

I hope this will help Trace,

Darren Gow-Brown
Tracy’s Experience
I’ll let you know what happened. Took it in and was shown that the bolts
were coming off the fan on the water pump. They tried to sell me a new
water pump… but it didn’t need it. Anyways, went to pick it up this
morning, and it wouldn’t start. They told me I needed a new battery. They
didn’t have one in stock that would have a warranty on it, so they
jump-started me and sent me on my way. Made it halfway to where he
recommended, and the car just died in the middle of traffic. Looked around
and there was an auto center right there. Went to get a jump and told him
where I was going and he recommended that I don’t go there. He said he’d
drop a new battery in and I could be on my way in ten minutes. I said ok.
He found that my new alternator was a dud, and went through three by the
same company before there was one that worked. (I forget which brand it
was.) (It was the 2nd one my Dad had put in.) Anyways, these guys were
great. They found a couple other things wrong (wires connected wrong) and
fixed them for free. They explained everything to me, let me watch which
a lot of mechanics I’ve been to do not allow) and showed me what they did
when I wasn’t there. They were pleasant and friendly, and even offered my
friend a ride across the city so he could get to his classes. So if you get
any more e-mails from Vancouver, BC where someone needs a recommendation,I
highly recommend Grandview Tire & Auto Center on Commercial Drive. (604)
872-8551. I’m a 24 year old female who is very suspicious of mechanics,
because I’ve run into a lot who have ripped me off. (Took my Blazer in for
an oil change and when I went to pick it up, the power door locks didn’t
work…) I was very happy when I drove my Dodge to work. It runs like a
dream. I’ll send you a photo when I can get the one off the digital
camera.
Thanks for the advice.
Tracy

Tracy I think a glass of scotch wouldn’t go a stray!!
DGB

41,Question
Subject: 1991 Dodge Caravan minor shake at 40-50mph

Hello
I just purchased a 1991 Caravan LE. I’m driving it because my Chevy venture
lease is over on mileage. I’m a veterinarian and have no car experience.
Besides regular maintenance, is there anything I should have serviced or
checked on this van?
The van has 161000 miles on it abnd doesn’t need an oil change until 167000.
It seems to run great except for a minor shake at 40-50 mph.
Thank you so much for your time,
Dr. Candi

Answer
Hi Dr Candi,

A driver is a good indicator of how the vehicle is performing, I would take
the vehicle to a tyre specialist to find out about that
minor shake and at the same time ask if the vehicle requires a wheel
alignment and or the wheels to be balance.
Start there and ask your friends for the No of a good mechanic and when you
find a good mechanic stick with them and they should treat you well.

See how you go

Darren Gow-Brown

42,Question
Subject: 93 grand marquis transmission Slipping ?

I have a 1993 grand marquis with a transmission that sometimes feels
like it slips into neutral for a split second. Also, lately it feels
loose when switching from park to drive etc. For example, when going
from park to reverse, I usually need to go to reverse and then back a
notch. Also, twice I was unable to start the car in park only neutral.
What is your opinion?
Change the transmission already?
or try to fix it for now?
Any ideas on cost?
Thanks for your help!

Answer
Hi Yehuda,
From what you have discribed I would get the selector mechanism inspected
Because you should be able to start the vehicle in park and neutral with ease
Also if you are able, get the transmission mounts checked out as this may causing a problem
I take it that the trans fluid is full and there are no leaks that you can see.

Start with those items and I hope this helps you.

Darren Gow-Brown

43,Question
Subject: Won’t start up problem

Gooday Darren!
I was wondering if you could help me with my problem.My van won’t start
up, just gives me
clicking noise everytime i turn on the ignition. I’ve tried to jumpstart
but it did not help,same problem
just clicking noise. I tried to jumpstart the starter too but to no
avail Starter motor wont even crank up.
Hopefully this information that i’m giving is enough for you to work on.
My suspicion is its the starter,but i’m just not sure enough.Money is a
bit tight at the moment that’s why I’m trying to fix it my self.

Its a L300 van express 1984 model 1.6L

cheers

Answer
Make sure the jumper leads are in good order and the battery your jumping it
with.
Better still try putting a good battery in place of the old one then see if
it starts.
Another than that make sure the earth leaks are well connected
Try that

DGB
Darren,
Thanks for the quick response,I checked the jumper cables and swapped batteries
with my mate and still everytime I turn on the ignition just a clicking noise.
cheers

Hi Oliver,
If the battery is and the leads are well connected then we need to start by
getting the battery tested.
The other thing that comes to mind is can you actually turn the engine over
by hand, that is just try to move the engine by the pulley to make sure the
engine is not seized.
DGB

Darren.
Thanks Heaps!!!I found the fault… Like what you said in your previous
mail
‘test the battery’ apparently one of the cell is not working anymore.
I bought a second hand battery and it started okay.
I know now what i’m going to buy this christmas… your CD!
Thank you very much!
cheers,

Oliver

44,Question
Subject: 87 honda prelude front end vibration

Great site, My problem is i have a vibration in the front end the
tires are new so i thought that the cv joints could make it vibrate so i
replaced both sides , they were bad. But the vibration did not go away,
its a manual transmission whay it sounds like is a tire sepperation and
thumps and gets louder as you go faster the tire are new and did before
the new tires, Thanks Dan .
Answer
Hi Dan
Just to be on the safe side, jack up each tyre, and check if there are
fractures and or separation.
Also with the vehicle stationary in neutral and the handbrake on, take the
engine above idle speed and check if the vibration is in the engine and not
in the front end

Try that Dan

Darren Gow-Brown

45,Question
Subject: VB Commdore running rough

Our car is running very rough. I had a friend look at it and did a tune up
but not using the timing light ( he just rotated and listened), I have
changed the air filter, oil, oil filter and plugs.
My friend also set the idle. It sounded okay at the time but on the way
home it stalled at the lights in drive. It sounds nice then all of a
sudden it drops and picks up again. It is then when it sometimes
stalls. What do I do next?

Also there was a hose that was blocked off on the air filter case. They
unblocked that hose and connected it to another blocked off hose going into
the dash. When I got home I read the service and repair manual and it said
that the blocked off hose was supposed to go to the carburrettor. What
have they done and should I reverse it? Also I don’t know where it would
go on the carbi anyway.
Can’t afford a local mechanic so I am trying to do this all my self.
Thanks very much for your help
Sara

Answer
Hi Sara,
Try to reverse what your friend did, in regards to the vacuum hose.
It also sounds like you need to look at the leads, because if its running
good one minute and bad the next, this sounds like spark plug leads, and or
a carby leaking.
Another thorght is ring about three mechanics and ask them if you could pay
say $30 just to do the timing.
See how you go

Darren Gow-Brown

46,Question
1997 Accent with transmission problems.
When you first drive the car in the morning, if you step on the gas while you are driving 25 mph to go faster like getting onto the freeway the transmission acts as if the car was shifted into nutral. You have to take you foot off the accelerator pedal until the car slows down then step on the gas and the car drives fine after it warms up. Do you know what could be causing this problem?
I used to be a mechanic years ago. It sounds like a pressure problem, like a valve opens up after the presshure gets too high. when the car warms up the fluid would be thinner and pressure would be lower so the valve would not open up.

What do you think, and does anyone have a diagram of this type of transmission?

Regards,

David De Antoneo

Answer
David it doesn’t sound good.
I’ll take a punt on the seals being hard, when the transmission operates at normal temp, then the seals are flexible If this is the case you need to ask a transmission specialist or a spare parts outlet if they have a suitable additive for you trans to make the o rings softer.

David I hope this helps.

Darren Gow-Brown

47Question
Subject: Toyota Tarago engine problem
Hi Darren

I hava a problem with my Toyota tarago GLI 1990. The problem with the car is that it’s hard to start up in the morning and I had this problem for quite a while now. I’ve even seen a toyota specialist and the can’t find the problem. Can you please help me.

Thank you

Ronnie

Answer
Hi Ronnie,
When you say the problem is in the morning, do you mean it cranks too long before it starts
I would be looking at the compression
At this stage the best thing I could recommend is a fuel specialist
If you live in Melbourne

Ask for John on 9587 7000
Carburettors To Go
356 Lower Dandenong Road (Unit 6 (Cnr Boundary Rd)
BRAESIDE VIC 3195

See how you go with the above

Darren Gow-Brown

48,Question
Subject: Low speed steering shudders
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus. I have a low speed steering shudder, that is
more noticeable at low speeds, but is always there. I have put new tires
on, had them rotated and balanced several times. What do you think?

Answer
Hi Ted,

I would be looking for a fractured tyre, or a flat spot on either tyre.
Also check to see if the wheels are bent or out of round
While your there make sure the shockers are ok
Pump the tyres up to 35psi

Ted see how you go

Darren Gow-Brown

49,Question
Why do Mechanics Charge so much?
Answer
Well being one myself I thought we were quit fair in this big ugly world, I think people hate going to a mechanic because they feel that mechanics may over service their vehicle and over charge.
I believe that we all need to look at the services we pay for but don’t use.
You could start with road side service, now every year your paying money out for nothing
It will add up over 20 years of driving, so it pays to have a good mechanic, and while I’m on the subject perhaps its not a idea to give a bottle a wine to your mechanic once a year to let them know how much you depend on them.
50,Question
Can you make a video on how to buy a second hand vehicle
Answer
Yes I’m in the process right now it should be completed by Dec,22,2000
51,Question
Clutch cannot select first gear!!
I cant put the car into gear for some reason. I push the pedal right
down and try and put it into gear but it wont do so. I tried putting it
into reverse but it made a loud scratching sort of noise. Do you have
any suggestions on how I could fix this or do I need a mechanic in to do
the job.

Answer
Dylan,
You have a clutch problem, now if its a hydraulic clutch make sure the fluid
is topped up
If its cable try to see if the cable is frayed if both are ok you may be
looking at a new clutch
but try to make a few checks first

Darren Gow-Brown

52,Question
Electrical Problems
My Toyota Corolla’s rear lights come on as I start the car then go out
so I have no rear lights.  What causes this and how do I fix it?
Answer
It sounds like it a faulty ignition switch or a bad earth at the rear,
either way a good auto electrician will be able repair the problem

Darren Gow-Brown

53,Question
Subject: bad cold idle
i have a 91 ford mustang with a 5 liter engine. the problem is that it
will not idle when it is started for the first time of the day, the idle
goes from 800-1200 rpm’s and is not driveable for at least a good couple
of minutes. i haven’t had a chance to pull codes on it as i don’t have a
scanner tool yet. if i increase the fuel psi, it will idle better but
then as the car warms up it will then run too rich and stumble at higher
speeds. i have put fuel injector cleaner and it has done nothing for it.
when it warms up though, the car runs like a bat out of hell. the car is
not driven too much and the iab or iac was cleaned not too long ago and
the car has about 105,000 on it and the 02 sensors are not even a year
old and the tuneup was done fairly recently.
i will listen to any suggestions or hints, thanks.
Answer
It sounds like its in the injectors and or the cold start idle controller,
and this problem is a pain because its a level 2 problem this means its
going to take a few goes to rectify the problem
Have the injectors ever been ultra sonic cleaned?

If not it may be a start

Darren Gow-Brown

54,Question
Subject: Charging System
I have a 1996 Hyundai Elantra and the alternator keeps jumping from 14 amps to 9 amps back to 14 then down to 6 and so on.  Could it be time for an alternator change? I have gone through 1 battery and will probably be on my second soon.  Please help!!!
thank you

Steve

Answer
Hi Steve,
It sounds like its in the voltage regulator, this may be less costly to replace, or even dirty terminals are capable of changing the voltage, if the auto electrician explains the only way to repair the problem is to replace the alternator then go with that decision
Darren Gow-Brown
55,Question
Subject: I want to work on my Carby!
Hi wonder if you can help. i’ve got a BX citroen automatic. i need to take
the top off the carburettor and spray it with wd40, as advised by my car
dealer. where do i find the carburettor and how do i do this?

cheers!

Answer
Hi Cheers
I’m sorry we will not instruct such a procedure as it may turn legal.
DGB
56,Question
Subject: I want instructions on tuning my ? Vehicle
Dear Darren,
I have been looking everywhere on the internet for easy to follow instructions to tune up my vehicle and adjust the timing. Can you give me an easy to follow plan as far as adjusting the carburettor and adjusting the timing? I know how to do the lube already.

Thanks

Colin

Answer
Hi Colin,
We producing videos in all formats for around $29.00 would you be interested?

Darren Gow-Brown
57,Question
Subject: What’s the Chassis
I am slowly doing self maintanence on my truck.  I regurlaly make checks and
adjustments, trying to “know” my vehicle better.  However, I have a question.
What are the “chassis?”  How do I lube them?  Please help.  Any links you
have would be great.

Thanks

Dumb Mechanic
rob
Answer
Hi Rob,
The Chassis is the main body don’t get too concerned about the technical writers

DGB

58,Question
Subject: Hyundai Excel Brakes
I’ve read the previous questions about shuddering brakes but other
people say the steering wheel moves or whatever.  i own a 1994 hyundai
excel automatic and sometimes when i apply the brakes harder than
‘average’ the whole car shudders, like jerks as if the brakes keep
slipping or are trying to catch on to something but doesnt quite do it
all the time, so its not the steering wheel, the whole car shudders.
even the car i took driving tests in was doing that.  can you tell me
what it is and how to fix it? and would you have any idea of the price
to fix it is?

Answer
Kim,
Your particular problem sounds like its either a fractured tyre or the brake
rotors are warped
Depending on where you go the price may be different
I would find a mechanic that you can trust and ask him to check the
shockers, tyres and disc rotor if they are warped
If they are ok for machining then your looking around $90.00 or less if the
front disc pads require changing then the price goes up.
Kim start there and see how you go, and let me know!

Darren Gow-Brown
58,Question Extention
Subject: Hyundai Excel Brakes
Thanks so much Darren for your reply.  The thing is, i bought the car
second hand from Ian Weigh and they had just changed all the tyres, they
even showed me and my family the old ones.  Anyway, I guess I bought the
car with the fault.  And even when I was taking driving lessons in an
automatic car of the driving school, their car was doing that too.  Is it
common for this jerking thing to occur when you apply the brakes a bit
harder than you would normally to stop?  I haven’t been in a manual car
before with this problem.  I would really like to know, and thanks for
letting me know what to ask the mechanic because since i’m a female they
would probably lie and rip me off, as I have been lied to before by a
stereo installation company, lucky it wasn’t about anything serious.
Anyway to get back on track! I will definitely let you know how it turns
out.  I also might contact Ian Weigh motors first, would that be worth
doing?.
Yes give them a chance to rectify the problem
Answer
Yes give them a chance to rectify the problem

Kim,
It should not be common for a vehicle to pulse or shudder under braking, as
this may cause the wheels to skip if they are shuddering under braking.

It may just be a matter of machining the rotors
disc pads, let me know

DGB
60,Question
Subject: Volvo 240 GLE sedan 1984
Darren
Vehicle:  Volvo 240 GLE sedan 1984.
Standard automatic transmission – 1 (first gear), 2 (second gear), and D (drive). It also has an ‘overdrive’ facility (the button is on the side of the gear lever).
Background: The car has no problem starting or getting moving. Idles in Park and Neutral a little under 1000rpm.  Doesn’t run ‘rough’, doesn’t stall.  It moves through gears 1 and 2 and then into ‘Drive’ as if nothing is the matter. However, it is here that my concerns begin.
Problem: When in ‘Drive’ it revs too high. According the tachometer, when I’m above 65kph, it revs close to 3000rpm. (Naturally, the higher the speed, the higher the revs. So I stay below 80kph much to the annoyance of other road users, but I drive a volvo so other drivers get annoyed whatever I do!!). However, every so often, there will be a slight ‘jolt’ and low/soft ‘clunk’ and the tachometer drops immediately down to 2000rpm; it is then that the car feels and sounds like it is running the way it is meant to. I can increase the speed to 100kph and the revs remain around the 2000rpm mark. The car actually feels really good – for an ’84 Volvo anyway!!
Question: Is there a second ‘position’ with the ‘Drive’ component of the transmission, or is it a case, as someone has suggested, that the ‘bands’ probably need adjusting? Someone else suggested that sometimes it’s just a matter of topping up the transmission fluid! (So of course I checked the fluid levels. It wasn’t full, but according to the dipstick there appeared to be enough fluid in there. While I’m on that subject, and at the risk of appearing like a ‘dipstick’ myself, how do you put transmission fluid in? Through the tiny hole where the dipstick goes?)
If there is an easy answer, I’d appreciate it. I know I have to get the car seen by someone, so it would be nice to have a little knowledge of what is going on in relation to this part of the car. regards
Tim
Answer
Tim
You can cover a multitude of problems by getting the trans service.
But first check the tran level, most transmissions you check when the engine is running in “Park”
When topping up the trans its a bit tricky to pour onto that little dipstick tube so I use a little funnel as the older I get the harder it is to aim!!!
If it needs topping up then you will need to find where its leaking, transmission fluid is flammable
Its sounds like its low in fluid but it wouldn’t hert to get it serviced to prolong its life
Tim do you use indicators when you drive or it that a miff?
Darren Gow-Brown

Jump Starting your car

Warning
Extreme care must be taken when jump starting an engine or serious bodily injury or damage to the vehicles may result.

If jump starting is not done correctly, expensive damage can be done to a vehicle’s electrical system, particularly to those fitted with electronic ignitions. Check the vehicle operating manual, if there are no specific instructions, then follow these steps.

When jump started, flat batteries generate high volumes of hydrogen gas which is extremely explosive, so sparks and naked flames must be avoided at all times. Do not lean over batteries during the operation. As a precaution, wear safety goggles and a face shield to protect eyes.

First, check to ensure both batteries are the same voltage (6 or 12 volt) and that the two vehicles are not touching each other. If the failed battery is open circuit do not attempt to jump start.

* Open circuit batteries can be detected by:

battery volts reading zero immediately after a high rate discharge test is applied.
when the battery will not accept charge current.
Carefully follow these steps in order:

Warning: Jump starting can damage vehicle electronics. Check the vehicle operating manual. If there is no specific instructions then follow these steps. If the failed battery is open circuit* do not attempt to jump start.

Step 2

Be sure the batteries of both cars are the same voltage (6 volt or 12 volt).
Drive the donor car close to the disabled car but ensure that the vehicles are not touching.
Place both cars in neutral or park and apply hand brake.
Make sure both vehicle ignitions are switched to OFF and all electrical equipment is OFF.
Step 3

Connect the vehicles in the following EXACT sequence and make sure the jumper leads are clear of any moving parts.

Take the RED jumper lead and connect to POSITIVE terminal (marked + or POS) of the discharged battery.
Connect the other end of the RED jumper lead to the positive terminal of the charged battery.
Take the BLACK jumper lead and connect one end to the NEGATIVE terminal (marked – or NEG) of the charged battery.
· Make the final connection to the engine block or chassis of the stalled vehicle (negative earth vehicles only). Never use Air Conditioner, Brakes or Fuel Lines for engine earth.

Step 4

Start the engine of the stalled vehicle.

Step 5

After starting, allow engine of the stalled vehicle to fast idle for a minimum of 10 minutes before disconnecting the jumper leads (see step 6) to allow the cars electrical systems to balance. This reduces the possibility of damage to vehicle electronics.

Step 6

Remove the BLACK cable first from the vehicle with the discharged battery then the opposite end from the charged battery. Repeat for the RED cable.

Step 7

After your car has been jump started, the battery should be recharged with a battery charger.

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