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	<title>Virtual Mechanic &#187; Weekly Checks</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/category/weekly-checks/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au</link>
	<description>The online motor vehicle repair guide</description>
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		<title>Is your car safe to drive</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/07/is-your-car-safe-to-drive/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/07/is-your-car-safe-to-drive/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Jul 2010 00:54:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Is your car safe to drive]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=910</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[From time to time it’s a good idea to perform a driveway safety check to make sure your vehicle is safe to drive. It does not matter whether you drive a nice looking Porsche or 20 year old Holden, the standards are the same. You might be thinking hang on that’s what I pay my [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>From time to time it’s a good idea to perform a driveway safety check to make sure your vehicle is safe to drive.<br />
It does not matter whether you drive a nice looking Porsche or 20 year old Holden, the standards are the same.</p>
<p>You might be thinking hang on that’s what I pay my mechanic or service centre to do.<br />
STOP right there who is checking your vehicle between services ?<br />
If you have a private servant Mechanic that performs a weekly check then you don’t really need to read on.</p>
<p>If you are the average person in that requires your vehicle to be operating in a safe mode then I suggest the following checks to maintain a reliable transportation for you and your family</p>
<p>Note the following items are all important</p>
<p>Tyres make sure they are all with the correct pressure including the spare, YES the spare tyre now when checking the spare make sure its free of water and rubbish where the spare wheel is stored. On some vehicles in the BMW series the dash will let you know if the tyres are low in presure</p>
<p>Engine oil<br />
For some reason most people think oil will last between services, and in most cases this is true but what if it decreases in level and then the engine will develop premature wear, its not hard for most people, as you may not be aware oil at the correct level acts as a cooling effect not to mention lubrication.</p>
<p>Drive belts<br />
Check that they are not cracked or loose</p>
<p>Lighting<br />
Check high beam low beam, brake lights and tail lights, how you ever driven behind another vehicle without brake lights, the first thing you want to do is overtake the vehicle to prevent an accident.</p>
<p>Battery<br />
The battery is the most important item when it comes to safety and reliability, you need to make sure the battery is secure and clamped down to prevent movement, the simple reason to prevent movement is to prevent a potential fire under the bonnet.<br />
Check that the battery terminals are free from acid and that the terminals are firm on the battery poles.<br />
If the battery is a wet cell meaning that you are able to fill the battery with water then fill only to above the cells and no higher.<br />
Batteries don’t last very long these days due to a number of factors  </p>
<p>Warning lamps<br />
If you see a warning light appear it’s a sign to DO SOMETHING NOW before you breakdown on the side of the road</p>
<p>More to come on this subject<br />
Written By Darren Gow-Brown <a href="http://www.Virtualmechanic.com.au">WWW.Virtualmechanic.com.au</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Why do I need to check my spare tyre</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/05/why-do-i-need-to-check-my-spare-tyre/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/05/why-do-i-need-to-check-my-spare-tyre/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 01 May 2010 22:21:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[FAQ]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[in the interests of motor vehicle safety]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Why do I need to check my spare tyre]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Written by Darren Gow-Brown]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WWW.Virtualmechanic.com.au]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=879</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Why do I need to check the spare wheel The best way to explain the need to check your spare tyre is take you back to my days working for the RACV in roadside service, I never minded changing wheels for anyone at any time. Most females were apologetic about the fact that they called [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Why do I need to check the spare wheel<br />
The best way to explain the need to check your spare tyre is take you back to my days working for the RACV in roadside service, I never minded changing wheels for anyone at any time. Most females were apologetic about the fact that they called someone to change a flat tyre.<br />
The fact is changing a wheel can be dangerous especially if performing this task on a freeway so when checking your tyres on a regular basis go the extra tyre and check the spare as it will deflate over time and there is only one time when you need it how life is so great if the spare is roadworthy and with the correct tyre pressure.</p>
<p>Getting back to my roadside service days, I remember I was in the city where there was absolutely parking, I found the member break-in down parking in the centre of the road with a flat tyre so he would have been waiting for about 45 minutes for me to arrive knowing that I was going to change his tyre only to find in his boot, a boot full of  books, so after taking all the books out of the boot here we find a flat tyre and I thought well some people need protection from them selves, I felt a bit under pressure at the time due to the fact I was getting paid a total of $6 per job yes that’s right a whole $6 dollars this was because I was contracting to the RACV.</p>
<p>Getting back to the spare wheel, it would not even hurt if you were to utilize the spare with other wheels to prevent to spare from rusting.</p>
<p>Now for those of you to whom are not so fortunate to find a real spare wheel, will be looking at a Orange or red skinny, I call it a funny wheel because it looks funny.<br />
The most critical thing to understand about the funny wheel is that you have a speed limit of around 60 to 80 km limit so your home work this week is open up the boot locate the spare wheel check the type of wheel and CHECK THE PRESSURE<br />
May I add if you are broken down on the freeway if possible get a friend to come over and to park behind you about five to ten metres   with the hazard lights on with the engine running in park, basically do what ever it takes to be safe.</p>
<p>For the record I hated the jobs leading me onto the freeway because it only takes a millisecond of error by an oncoming vehicle to change your life forever for this reason I made contact to Eastlink James Tonkin Manager &#8211; Strategy &amp; Marketing, ConnectEast Group (<a href="mailto:jtonkin@connecteast.com.au">jtonkin@connecteast.com.au</a> ) about producing a short Video for motorist to understand freeway safety when breaking down on the freeway, the e-mail was submitted to Eastlink 30-4-10,  still awaiting a reply.</p>
<p>Written by Darren Gow-Brown, <a href="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/">WWW.Virtualmechanic.com.au</a>, in the interests of motor vehicle safety</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Why do I need to check my engine oil</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/05/why-do-i-need-to-check-my-engine-oil/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2010/05/why-do-i-need-to-check-my-engine-oil/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 01 May 2010 05:41:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[FAQ]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[in the interests of motor vehicle safety]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Why do I need to check my engine oil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Written by Darren Gow-Brown]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[WWW.Virtualmechanic.com.au]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=877</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It&#8217;s very easy for me to write about checking your motor vehicles  engine oil especially between services because I&#8217;m the mechanic that gets  to see the effects of driving a vehicle on low or even no oil showing  on the dip stick. Apart from premature wear and tear on the engine, the short term damage  [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s very easy for me to write about checking your motor vehicles <br />
engine oil especially between services because I&#8217;m the mechanic that gets <br />
to see the effects of driving a vehicle on low or even no oil showing <br />
on the dip stick.<br />
Apart from premature wear and tear on the engine, the short term damage <br />
is overheating due to lack of lubrication oil performs many functions including transferring heat away from the cylinders, it also washes the engine holding acids and silicon oxide in suspension offering a protection of oxidation at higher temperatures.<br />
I think I know why most people don&#8217;t check the engine oil between <br />
services.<br />
Here were some of the reasons given to me when I asked the question.<br />
I didn&#8217;t think I needed to check it<br />
That&#8217;s what motor mechanics are for right<br />
It&#8217;s a new car it doesn&#8217;t use any oil<br />
It&#8217;s too dirty I&#8217;m getting my hands dirty</p>
<p>If I was anything other than a mechanic I would accept most of those <br />
reasons but I&#8217;m not so sorry but you do need to get in the practise of <br />
checking your engine oil on a weekly basis whether you have new <br />
vehicle or not.<br />
Of course while your there it won&#8217;t kill you to check the washer bottle.<br />
There are many checks to be made under the including the coolant level <br />
or the water level but I will need explain this some detail as this <br />
requires special<br />
Attention.<br />
Written by Darren Gow-Brown, in the interest of motor vehicle safety. <a href="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/">WWW.virtualmechanic.com.au</a></p>
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		<title>Electrical System &#8211; The Battery</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/electrical-system-the-battery/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/electrical-system-the-battery/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 04 Sep 2009 09:03:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Electrical System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Darren Gow-Brown author of  Basic Car Maintenance and free advice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[explains about
Electrical System - The Battery]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[giving you the knowledge to help you understand what items to look for to prevent breaking down]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Virtual Mechanic]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=311</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The battery PURPOSE The battery is designed to store power and deliver power to all accessories.  Also to receive charge from the alternator.  Batteries are only as good as their connections and connections on the battery poles should not have any white powder or corrosion built up.  This is a problem.  The purpose of the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The battery</p>
<p>PURPOSE<br />
The battery is designed to store power and deliver power to all accessories.  Also to receive charge from the alternator.  Batteries are only as good as their connections and connections on the battery poles should not have any white powder or corrosion built up.  This is a problem.  The purpose of the battery is to hold current, receive charge from the alternator and deliver power to all accessories.  Batteries 20 years ago would last around 10 years.  Batteries today, on average, last somewhere between 18-24 months.  If you&#8217;re lucky the battery will last 4 or 5 years, but this is an isolated scenario.  Batteries don&#8217;t last long as they are designed differently, but still maintain a high price.</p>
<p>THINGS TO LOOK FOR<br />
A battery may be no maintenance, low maintenance or maintenance.  The best one is a maintenance battery with the screw tops so that you can check the water level.  Most batteries will take normal water but if unsure of the quality of the water, then just to be on the safe side, use distilled water.  Don&#8217;t over fill or under fill a battery.  The best way to check a battery is to make sure that the water level is always over the plates.  If one cell is descending faster than the other this indicates that the battery is on the way out.  If the battery is vaporising and causing the terminals or poles to corrode with white powder, this is an indication that the battery is over working, either getting to the end of its life or being overcharged by the alternator.  A battery is designed to receive a charge rate of 13.3-14.2.  The preferred charge rate is 13.8-14.2 but that only applies to a very good charging system.  Batteries are only as good as the power they receive and the connections.  Batteries must be secure and held down by a battery clamp.  If not, then the battery may move around and cause an under bonnet fire.  When checking the battery take care not to accidentally put a spanner on the positive connection and earth as the battery may blow up in your face.</p>
<p>IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?<br />
Batteries vary, depending on the make and model..  The best battery to buy is one with a 2 year warranty.  Batteries do have a higher mortality rate than the average vehicle component.  Remember to keep your receipt and don&#8217;t expect the battery to last  any more than 3 years.</p>
<p>TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT<br />
If fitting a battery, be very careful to make sure the terminals are in the exact location as the old battery.  These terminals vary from battery to battery according to the manufacturer and the make and model.  These terminals are situated at different locations to allow the connections to be connected with slack.  Remember, if fitting a battery and you find the positive or negative terminal very tight or just making it to the battery pole, when the engine revs, the engine will move and the battery cable will become tight and move around and the battery pole may be yanked out of the battery causing acid to pour everywhere.</p>
<p> <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-312" title="Battery 150 1" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Battery-150-1.jpg" alt="Battery 150 1" width="150" height="109" /></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Weekly Checks &#8211; FanBelts</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/weekly-checks-fanbelts/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/weekly-checks-fanbelts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:45:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Electrical System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Engine System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Darren Gow-Brown author of  Basic Car Maintenance and free advice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[explains about
Weekly Checks - FanBelts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[giving you the knowledge to help you understand what items to look for to prevent breaking down]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Virtual Mechanic]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=265</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cooling/Electrical System &#8211; FanBelts  Checking the fan belt is an easy task. By pushing on the fan belt you can ascertain if the tension is firm or loose. Also, first thing in the morning, by revving the engine, you may notice a high pitched screech. This indicates the fan belt is loose and needs attention [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cooling/Electrical System &#8211; FanBelts<br />
 Checking the fan belt is an easy task. By pushing on the fan belt you can ascertain if the tension is firm or loose. Also, first thing in the morning, by revving the engine, you may notice a high pitched screech. This indicates the fan belt is loose and needs attention ASAP. A high pitched screech may also self destruct a fan belt particularly if it’s a polyrib belt, that is a later generation type belt. It’s also called a serpentine belt.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-266" title="WFanBelt1" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/WFanBelt1.jpg" alt="WFanBelt1" width="150" height="112" /></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Cooling System – Water</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/cooling-system-water/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/cooling-system-water/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:43:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cooling System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cooling System – Water]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=262</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Cooling System &#8211; Water  PURPOSE Water is designed to maintain normal operating temperature and will only perform this function if all other components are operating correctly. Water should include an additive to prevent corrosion and erosion. If your vehicle is driven in either a very cold or very hot climate it may be necessary to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cooling System &#8211; Water<br />
 PURPOSE<br />
Water is designed to maintain normal operating temperature and will only perform this function if all other components are operating correctly. Water should include an additive to prevent corrosion and erosion. If your vehicle is driven in either a very cold or very hot climate it may be necessary to add either an anti -freeze or anti-boil solution. This will only work effectively if the corrosive inhibitor is changed every 12 months.</p>
<p>THINGS TO LOOK FOR</p>
<p>The colour of the water tells a very good story about the condition of the cooling system. Brown water is the worst, clear water is not good; green water is best and it needs to be changed every 12 months to keep the colour at its best.</p>
<p>IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?</p>
<p>If your vehicle is pre 1990 then a good corrosive inhibitor may be okay. If it is after 1990 then contact your dealer as the seals and welsh plugs require specific inhibitors to protect these components. These additives can be expensive.</p>
<p>TEMPORARY REPAIR AND LONG TERM REPLACEMENT</p>
<p>If your vehicle has brown water, disconnect the heater hose and remove the radiator cap and secure a garden hose in the heater hose and turn on with a moderate pressure. This is the best way to reverse flush the cooling system. Please note that this should only be done when the engine is cold. It may require several applications until the water runs clear. It is a good idea to turn the heater tap as this will also flush the heater core, in case it might be partially blocked.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
 More information On Basic Car Maintenance CD Rom</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-263" title="WWaterLevel" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/WWaterLevel.jpg" alt="WWaterLevel" width="150" height="112" /></p>
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		<title>Weekly Checks – Power Steering Level</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/weekly-checks-power-steering-level-2/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/weekly-checks-power-steering-level-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:27:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Engine System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks – Power Steering Level]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=259</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Power Steering &#8211; Fluid Level  Checking the power steering level is an easy task. You need to check 2 things with the power steering. 1: that the power steering fan belt is in good condition and that there’s no squeaking on a full lock or a high pitched screech and 2: that the power steering [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Power Steering &#8211; Fluid Level<br />
 Checking the power steering level is an easy task. You need to check 2 things with the power steering. 1: that the power steering fan belt is in good condition and that there’s no squeaking on a full lock or a high pitched screech and 2: that the power steering fluid is not descending. If you find that the fluid is descending over a period of time, say, a week or a month, you have a serious leak. Power steering fluid leaking can be serious. Please note that it is a highly flammable fluid just like transmission fluid. If you do notice that the fluid is descending you need to have that leak repaired ASAP to prevent any damage or a possible underbonnet fire.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-260" title="WPowerSteeringPower" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/WPowerSteeringPower.jpg" alt="WPowerSteeringPower" width="150" height="201" /></p>
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		<title>Checking the engine oil</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/checking-the-engine-oil/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/09/checking-the-engine-oil/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:24:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintenance Hints and Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Engine System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Checking the engine oil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=257</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Checking the engine oil    Checking the oil level on a weekly basis is very important. You also need to check that the oil level is not descending. The best time to check the oil is when the engine is cold on a flat surface. If you find that it’s quite damp around the engine [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Checking the engine oil<br />
 <br />
 Checking the oil level on a weekly basis is very important. You also need to check that the oil level is not descending. The best time to check the oil is when the engine is cold on a flat surface.<br />
If you find that it’s quite damp around the engine this is an indicator of oil leaking. If the sump is quite damp it could indicate that the oil is leaking on the road. This can be quite dangerous to motorcyclists. If you see the oil descending or you notice the engine sump is damp you need to do something about it as soon as you can to prevent a potential accident on the road.</p>
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		<title>Electrical System &#8211; Alternator</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/08/electrical-system-alternator/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/08/electrical-system-alternator/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2009 23:51:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Electrical System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Darren Gow-Brown author of  Basic Car Maintenance and free advice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[explains about
Electrical System - Alternator]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[giving you the knowledge to help you understand what items to look for to prevent breaking down]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Virtual Mechanic]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=247</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Alternator  PURPOSE The alternator is a component that is fitted outside or around the front of the engine. It is a round component and has a fan belt connected to it. If the fan belt is connected tightly it will allow the alternator to charge somewhere between 13.8-14.2 volts. The alternator is designed to charge [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Alternator<br />
 PURPOSE<br />
The alternator is a component that is fitted outside or around the front of the engine. It is a round component and has a fan belt connected to it. If the fan belt is connected tightly it will allow the alternator to charge somewhere between 13.8-14.2 volts. The alternator is designed to charge at this voltage to the battery. The alternator&#8217;s purpose is to keep the battery recharged..The alternator is not designed to fully charge the battery if the battery is flat. If the battery is flat have it recharged by an auto electrician and then the alternator will keep the battery recharged at its full capacity. The alternator may have an external voltage regulator or an internal regulator. Most have an internal voltage regulator which regulates the voltage. The internal voltage regulator may have brushes attached to it as a complete unit and this is the component that allows the battery to receive the charge.</p>
<p>THINGS TO LOOK FOR</p>
<p>The alternator should have a tight fan belt. If not, this will affect the charge rate. An alternator should also have a secured lead and terminal at the rear of the alternator. This is the main terminal that connects a heavy duty lead from the alternator to the battery. Alternators should be checked for the voltage across the terminals at the battery for 13.8-14.2 volts. If this isn&#8217;t the case, then check the voltage at the rear of the alternator on the positive terminal and the earth on the battery terminal. If this is a lower voltage, it is showing that the battery has got a voltage drop therefore an extra lead made up to go from the alternator to the positive battery is another way of ensuring a good charge rate to the battery.</p>
<p>IS IT EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR?</p>
<p>Depending on the make and model , the alternator can cost around $150.00-$200.00 for a reconditioned alternator. Some alternators can be purchased new. Whether purchasing a reconditioned or new alternator, be sure to get a 12 months warranty. as alternators, depending on the make and model do fail. With reconditioned alternators, it depends on the auto electrician. Find a good auto electrician, preferrably one that is recommended.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-248" title="Alternator_0620_150" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/Alternator_0620_150.jpg" alt="Alternator_0620_150" width="150" height="135" /></p>
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		<title>Brake System – Brake Fluid</title>
		<link>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/08/brake-system-brake-fluid/</link>
		<comments>http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/2009/08/brake-system-brake-fluid/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2009 23:46:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>virtualmechanic</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Basic Car Maintainence]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brake System]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[General Inspection]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Weekly Checks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Brake System – Brake Fluid]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/?p=243</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Brake System &#8211; Brake Fluid  PURPOSE Brake fluid is designed to operate under high temperatures therefore it contains additives that make it hydroscopic, this means its properties will become affected if it&#8217;s exposed to water. Brake fluid is not designed to last forever as moisture may affect the boiling point. For this reason brake fluid [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Brake System &#8211; Brake Fluid<br />
 PURPOSE<br />
Brake fluid is designed to operate under high temperatures therefore it contains additives that make it hydroscopic, this means its properties will become affected if it&#8217;s exposed to water. Brake fluid is not designed to last forever as moisture may affect the boiling point. For this reason brake fluid must be kept in a dry place and the rubber lid on the master cylinder must be sealed to prevent moisture and dirt from entering into this reservoir. Brake fluid is best kept for 12 months, and after that, throw it away as it may contain moisture.</p>
<p>Things to look for</p>
<p>Brake fluid, depending on its demand, may become discoloured. When this happens renew the brake fluid.. It is important to observe the brake fluid reservoir on a weekly basis as it may descend as the front disc callipers self adjust. It should only descend slightly, measured in millimetres at a time. If the reservoir descends completely in a month then it&#8217;s leaking. At this stage, don&#8217;t even drive the car to the garage. Brake fade is also a sign to change the brake fluid. Brake fade is when the pedal is still hard but there is no braking reaction</p>
<p>Is it expensive to repair?</p>
<p>Brake fluid is not expensive and if you decide to replace the brake fluid make sure your mechanic bleeds all the nipples and cleans the reservoir. If this is completely flushed, it may cost around $45.00 including time.</p>
<p>Temporary repair and long term replacement</p>
<p>Brake fluid may descend slightly in the reservoir as the disc callipers self adjust. At this stage it&#8217;s okay to top it up with new brake fluid to prevent the buoyant level indicator from switching the brake warning light on.<br />
 <img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-244" title="WBrakeMaster" src="http://www.virtualmechanic.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/WBrakeMaster.jpg" alt="WBrakeMaster" width="150" height="112" /></p>
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