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FAQ 3,

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username=Jim Mayhan
VehicleType=blazer
VehicleAge=11.5
DistanceTravelled=150,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=USA
State=Georgia
Subject=Vibration
comment=I have a 1991 S10 4DR 4WD Blazer.  I purchased the Blazer in
September 1990.  Over the past year I have had vibration problems at highway
speeds and on accellaration and decellaration.  I have had new tires and
shocks and had the tires balanced a few times.  Finally, I took it to
the dealer and explained the situation.  On Tuesday, 4/16/02, I took it to
the dealer.  He was intent on telling me it was a tire out of balance condition.
After spending $129.90 on tests and balancing, he said the balancing
they did should fix the problem.  Guess what, it is no different than when I
brought it in.  I hate to spend too much money guessing (CV Joints,
bearings, etc.) on a vehicle with 150,000 miles on it.  Any suggestions.
Thank you very much for any assistance,
Jim Mayhan
Answer
James does anyone in America know how to fix a bloody car these days
??????????
Are the wheels non standard ?
I had a similar problem with non standard wheels causing the problem and it
put stress on the shockers thus requiring both struts to be renewed
But I must say it would be great if a company anywhere in the world
could make shockers to last longer than 40,000 Kms and tyres not to fracture so easy.
Henry ford once said bankers are worse people to ever deal with but I feel
some after market parts manufactures need to stop ripping people off.
Cont
Thank you very much for your response.  I  do not believe I have non
tandard wheels.  I have aluminum 15″ wheels.  The tires currently on the
Blazer are LT235/75 R15.  In October, I had new shock absorbers put on the
front and the back.  Do you think the new shocks could be bad.  I have a 1yr
parts and labor warrenty and do you think it would be worth my while getting
them checked?
Thank you again for any help.
Jim
Answer
Yes get opinions also from other shops but make sure the wheels are not the
cause of the problem
Honda Prelude Power Steering Belt and Adjustment
username=Karen T

VehicleType=1991 Honda Prelude
VehicleAge=11
DistanceTravelled=146,000 kms
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Canada
State=Nova Scotia

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Power Steering Belt
comment=Hi,

I own a 1991 Honda Prelude.  I have replaced the power steering belt and the
alternator belt.  Both have been “squealing”.  I adjusted the alternator
belt and it is now tighter.  However, the power steering belt is still loose
and very noisy when I start it up.  How do I tighten the belt to
prevent
this high pitched noise.  Thanks.
Answer
The new belts will require re-adjusting after a few days perhaps
its loose now but better soon
Cont
Yes Darren,

I realize that it does require adjustment.  My question still is how do
I adjust the tension on the belt.  I have tried to loosen the adjustment
pulley, but to no avail.  The darn thing still won’t budge.  Any ideas
on how to loosen the nut on the pulley.  I have used all kinds of  WD40
on it. Help!!!!
Darren
Can you send me an image of it and then I may explain where to go
Karen
Hi Darren,
I figured out how to tighten the belt, but the main and only problem I
am having right now is that the bolt on the pulley is seized.  This is a real
problem because I have to back off the main bolt on the center of the pulley
to be able to use the adjustment screws.  How do you loosen a seized bolt?
Some people have said to use heat, but in order to do that I will have to
drop the engine.  There is only about 1 inch of space between the pulley and
the side of the engine compartment.  Hopefully you’ll know some industry
tricks for loosening bolts.  Thanks ever so much for your help.  I think
this is going to be a major concern for most Prelude owners since their cars
are creaping up their in age.
Darren
Spray or to put it in another way flood the bolts with WD40 over several
nights to see if this may create a difference, enough for you to make that
vital adjustment
Karen
Ok, I’ll give that a try and see what happens.  I finally found a belt (away
buying and returning 10 of them) that fits.  Now to get that “stupid” bolt
freed up–this would be a joy.  I’ll let you know what happens.  I really
think once we get it freed up, you should really put that one on your site.
Apparently I’m not the only one with a Prelude that is having the same
problem.

Thanks again.  I’ll let you know how it goes.
VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1 Vibration
username=Eugene

VehicleType=VP II 93′ V8 Holden Commodore BT1
VehicleAge=9
DistanceTravelled=200,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Au
State=WA

sThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Vibration
comment= Hi, I have a vibration problem in the front end that shakes the
steering wheel left to right. I have had this problem come and go since I
first purchased this car. This occours at 90-105km.
I have replaced the front tyres with P6000 Perallis. Which are fitted on
CSA
Alloy Wheels, bought from new. Had all four balanced and a wheel
alignment.
I have always found a problem with the front wheel bearings working loose.
the strut mounts have been replaced.  engine mounts have been replaced.
power steering leeking but tie rod ends seem ok, bushings seem ok.  what
else can I check? I also have a shaking problem in the rear. Seems to have
got worse over time.  I found a leeking shock and have orderd new ones. I
have checked the center tale shaft bearing, seems ok.  Anything else I
should check?
Any info would be much appreciated.  Thank you.
Answer
Eugene,

Even though the shockers may seem ok they may still be causing a problem
I do not recommend Munro as they don’t seem to last the distance
Look for any tyre fractures and or bent rims
Try that
DGB
Ford Escort Cooling System
username=Daniel Felice

VehicleType=ford escort
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=225877
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Sydney
DateDD=02
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=cooling system
comment=Can you please help me i have a 1980 model ford escort and while
driving the temp needle doesn’t move but when im stopped at traffic lights
of in traffic it goes up to boiling then when i keep driving it goes back to cold…..
i’ve changes the thermostat,ratiator and i’ve disconnected the heater
because i was told that it could be blocked, i’ve also been driving the car
with no thermostat it still does the same thing.

please help……

Answer
Danier,
This is a normal problem with your type of vehicle, its because the fan is
not effective at idle
You need to consider getting a thermo fan fitted this way it should cut in
at idle speed
DGB
Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback Clutch & Brakes
username=Filipo

VehicleType=Ford Telstar TX5, 2L, 4cyl, manual, 12 valves, hatchback
VehicleAge=12 DistanceTravelled=260k
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=New Zealand

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Clutch and Brakes
comment=Hello there,
Would like some instructions on how to change the clutch on my car. Also
would like to know why the braking is pulsing as well as the car begins to
shake when driving around and over 100k
Also would like to know why water is leaking from the front of the engine
(according to a friend – this is the water pump – has a little hole on it
and is leaking water). Lastly – the car does not appear to run stable – rpms
rise and drop all the time – when driving – its a bit bumpy sort of like not
firing correctly. I have replaced spark plugs, leads, same problem.
If you can give some clues – I would appreciate it very much. Thank
you in advance

Regards
P Filipo
Answer
I don’t have the free time to instruct you on how to fit the clutch As for
the braking system it would be a good idea to check the following Check tie
rods Machine the disc’s rotors also make sure they are not under size The
water leaking could be anything send me an image showing where the water is
leaking DGB
Cont
Thank you Darren
I really appreciate your response. I will get on to sending you an image of
the water leak as soon as I can

Kind regards

P Filipo
Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980  VB Commodore Ignition Barrel
username=Gary Mayes

VehicleType=Holden VB Commodore 3.3 1980
VehicleAge=22
DistanceTravelled=245,000 Kms
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=NSW

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=VB Commodore Ingintion Barrel
comment=I’m currently attempting to replace the ingnition barrel on a Holden
VB Commodore. (1980, red motor, auto 3.3L)
I have read the section in the VB  maintenance manual throroughly and cannot
get the ignition barrel out from the steering column.
As per manual, I have removed steering wheel, indicator switch and the
hazard relay. The manual then says to stick a small screwdriver or pin into
the indicator switch hole and the barrel will slide out. The only access to
the barrel is one hole, just to the right of the steering lock pin, which
gives access to a cogwheel assembly which rotates as the key is turned in
the ignition.
I have been advised that I need to depress the tab on the main ignition
barrel body, which will release the unit from the steering column, but I
just can’t get access to this tab.
Also the manual says I should have the ingnition in the ‘Off’ position for
removal, but the tab on the barrel will only depress when the key is in the
‘On’ position??

Confused!
Answer
Its a real bugger the first time around, perhaps the pin requires more force
Gary
Cheers for that Darren. I actually found out what the problem was. The slot where you can access the pin was still closed from the initial casting of the alloy. So when you look at it there appears to be no hole at all. However if you poke around with a screwdriver, where the pin “should” lie, the thin alloy easily pushes through, revealing the pin on the barrel. One for the maintenance manual I guess!!
Anyway, thanks for your reply.
1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon  Steps to remove water pump
username=massey
VehicleType=1989 EA ford falcon Station Wagon
VehicleAge=13
DistanceTravelled=100,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=New Zealand
State=North Island

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Steps to remove water pump
I have had trouble removing radiator so as to get a better veiw of bolts on water pump.
ive managed to dismantal all bolts that secure radiator,i have also removed
nuts that are secured to the pulley,the propellor i cant figure how to
remove as my attempts have been futile. the radiator is in the way and cant remove.
Answer
Massey,
You need a special large open ender that is 1 1/16 it also will only turn anti clockwise see how you go with that
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch but did not fill out the form …………

Subject: Automotive Question

I was recently involved in a serious accident that was a direct result of
being towed. I am curious to how the brakes of my automatic vehicle (1985
Madza 323 5 door deluxe hatch – 120,000 ks) would have operated while the
engine was turned off, and the car was being moved whilst in neutral.
There seems to be a large percentage of opinions that believe the brake
performance would have been severely restricted or non operational.

Thank You – Kat
Answer
This is a free service, to get this free service fill the form out……………
AR Ford Teltsar Ghia faulty electronic dash Workshop Manual
username=brad maker

VehicleType=AR Ford Teltsar Ghia
VehicleAge=1985
DistanceTravelled=264000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIAN
State=QLD

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=faulty electronic dash
comment=digital dash on telstar shows the speedo flashing with ignition on
or with engine running,also fuel and temperature digital gauges do not work
at all. When stardard analogue dash is fitted every thing works ok. Do you
have any imformation on the electronic boards fitted inside the digital dash
and possibably what board is faulty . If not can you supply the electronic
wirirg circuits for the boards and the dash it is not available through
Haynes or Gregorys Manuals ,thank you.
Answer
Try here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Holden Calais VT Idler pulleys
username=Clive

VehicleType=Holden Calais VT
VehicleAge=4
DistanceTravelled=69,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria
DateDD=03
DateMM=07
DateYY=02
IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Idler pulleys
comment=I’ve been getting this ringing sound from the idler pulley’s when in
drive and reverse gets worse when steering wheel is turned, I’ve replaced
both idler pulley’s and support also the belt it shut’s up for awhile then
the noise comes back changed it again and still there. Could it be something
else getting really frustrated with it
Answer
Clive
We still have a possible fault in the following areas
Water pump
Harmonic balancer
Alternator
Perhaps remove the belt and rotate the pulleys feeling for any rough bearing
noise
Ford Bronco Charging system ?……
username=Dan Miller

VehicleType=Ford Bronco
VehicleAge=20
DistanceTravelled=190,000
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=US
State= Nebraska

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Charging
comment=On my Bronco I have a new alternator , new regulator, and a good
battery (12.5 volts)and i have checked all my wires with a multi-gauge and
it is still not charging. I have a dead battery every couple of weeks. I
think just from starting .also i checked the battery with the multi-gauge
and i only get about 10v after its started it remains the same.  I was told
too that if i remove the negative cable from the battery i could tell if it
was charging cuz the alternator would keep it going but when i do it dies ..
I have done this before and it has kept running , anyways I can use all help
i can get..
Thank You
Dan Miller
Answer
Dan,
The alternator should be charging out at 13.5 – 14.2 it will only do this if
the following are in order
Alternator is charging out 13.5 – 14.2
If the fan belt is firm
Battery is in good condition (get it tested to make sure)
Battery terminals are firm and not corroded
Positive wires are in good condition
Earth lead to the engine is secure

Try that Dan
1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
username=Andrew

VehicleType=1985 Holden Commodore Berlina S/W
VehicleAge=17
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Setting Ignition Timing with E.S.T.
comment=Dear Darren,

Could you please tell me how to set the ignition timing on a 1985 VK V8
(308) Commodore Berlina.  I recently replaced the carburettor, as it had a
perforated diaphragm. Since replacing the carburettor, the car has not idled
as smoothly as it should.  By a process of elimination, I have come to the
conclusion that the timing is out, this was confirmed by checking the
timing. I have been unable to find any information on how to re-set the
timing. Hoping you are able to help.

Kind Regards,
Andrew
Victoria/Australia
Answer
Andrew you will need to go here http://web.archive.org/web/20031003012251/http://www.ellery.com.au/home.html
Maxima Intermittent misfire
username=Bob Ennis

VehicleType=Maxima
VehicleAge=3
DistanceTravelled=65k
Trans=Auto
Driveline=FWD
Country=AUSTRALIA
State=A.C.T.

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Intermittent missfire
comment=Hi Darren, Just a bit of info about myself. Ex-mechanic (got out in
84, after 20 years, just as the electronics came in) still TRY to keep up,
but it’s a loosing battle!
This one has got me stumped! It’s a 99 maxima, serviced by the book since
new. (by me) It missfires, ie: a totaly dead cylinder, when it feels like
it. No apparent reason. Sometimes after 20km, sometimes on cold startup.
Sometimes not for a week. Don’t notice a loss of power on the highway.
Have done the obvious things, like new plugs ($160), cleaned the throttle
body, new air filter, checked timing, checked for loose hoses and
connections.
When it is missing the exhaust sounds like a burnt valve, and it feels to
“suck back”.
This condition only lasts for 3 to 5 minutes, then it reverts back to
normal on it’s own.
On reflection, it goes back to a “won’t idle” situation a few months ago.
I cleaned the throttle body and gave it a drink of injector cleaner.(can’t
remember the brand) It then ran perfectly for a few weeks.
Have had it into the local dealer, and of course, it wouldn’t do it.(they
think I’m a nut) Before I let them have access to my bank account(they want to start
replaceing coils, injectors and such)what do you think about the
possibility of a hydrolic lifter problem?
I’m happy to drive it untill something totaly drops the bundle, but the wife
wants it fixed!!!!
Thanks in advance.
Bob.
Answer
Bob,
About 1 in every 150 questions I enjoy and yours is one of them.
I went to the trouble to ask my ECU repair tech man and we both feel it is
not an electronic problem
I feel it maybe dirty fuel hanging around the or one of the injectors
I understand your wife is not happy but you will need to catch it when it
happens and try to work out what injector is putting stress on the
relationship
Ford tx 5   (turbo)  Bearings front
username=Leon

VehicleType=ford tx 5   (turbo)
VehicleAge=14
DistanceTravelled=
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=Australia
State=Victoria

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=No
Subject=Bearings front
comment=Hello Mate,This for my daughter her cat is a ford tx5..turbo year 88
she has a grinding sound when the car is moving i thought it might be the
gear box but it changes good,ive tried to undo the lock nut, the kind that
was kinked into the axle shaft like key grove.It wount move what ever iv
done 32mm socket on long bar still wont budge L/hand side.if i heat it is
there nylon bushes or other things there .And do you think that noisre is
the bearing .thanks mate
Answer
Can you record the noise and e-mail it to me in MP3 format
Ford Telstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve Fitting a Timing belt
username=Neil Coetzee

VehicleType=FordTelstar 2.0GLi v6 24 valve
VehicleAge=8 yrs (1994model)
DistanceTravelled=275000
Trans=Manual
Driveline=FWD
Country=South Africa
State=Gauteng

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=Fitting a Timing belt
comment=Hi.
Having just replaced the water pump as the old one was shot,
I removed the timing belt to get to the water pump without moving the cam
pulleys,
They are atill in their original places, But I cannot refit the belt, it wion’t go back on.
How do I fit the belt ?
Should I position the pulleys etc before refitting the belt?
What is the correct proceedure to fit the timing belt ?
Answer
You really need the manual to do it for the first time
Datsun 260Z  jump starting methodology
username=Eric Bettio

VehicleType=Datsun 260Z
VehicleAge=27
DistanceTravelled=120,000 est
Trans=Auto
Driveline=RWD
Country=Australia
State=Vic

IsThereRoadSafetyEducationInYourTown=Yes
Subject=jump starting methodology
comment=I have just found your website and like it very much. My question
is a general one regarding your method for jump starting a car. Why is it that
the final connection of jumper leads is to the chassis of the car rather
than to the negative terminal of the battery (as it is on the car with the
good battery)? I have seen and heard many times that the final connection
is to the chassis but see no reason why.
Thanks,
Eric
Answer
The final connection is where the circuit is completed therefore its where
the spark will also occur
apart from this the reason is to jump start the start motor not the battery
Cont
Thank you for your answer, it all makes a bit more sense now, I know the
batter gives off fammable gases (hydrogen and oxygen) and a spark could be a
problem.
thanks again
eric

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